Gardom's Edge

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Eric Byne:

one of the boldest feats of cragmanship that this era has seen. [1]

References

[1] Obituary in the Alpine Journal 1977 by John Cleare. Alpine Journal 1977 265-273 In Memoriam

References

[1] Mountain Issue 104, page 11 /library/11125/mountain-104

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/ukc/jim_pope_headpoints_olwen_e9_6c_and_onsights_strawberries_e7_6b-762630?v=1#x9815217

Back then, I misguidedly thought that naming and recording new boulder problems was pretentious; now I’m troubled by the thought that I might have done things and forgotten them. Perhaps that’s why I took this photo: to preserve that perfectly crisp gritstone moment. As it turned out, I can recall the climb quite vividly, but had no idea I'd taken a picture until unearthing it a few days ago.

Fortunately, it didn’t take long for me to reconsider writing up the climb. But to keep to the rules it needed to be a route, and have a route grade – so I gave it E5 6c. To be fair, out there on my own, no spotters and just a single pad, throwing one on for the top, it felt like I was earning a few E points.

On the name, Suavito is a track by Senõr Coconut, a German electronic music producer known for Latin arrangements of Kraftwerk tracks. Looking at the note in my guidebook, I was going to call it ‘Grip’, but that’s pretty been strongly scribbled out. [1]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CzXPXpzKvHy/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C3qPcrdIOMD/

[2] On The Edge Issue 103, page 10

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2003/02/gardom_project_falls_to_gibson-7035

[2] On The Edge 127, page 10

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,9038.msg144330.html#msg144330

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/64967928

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=27496.0

References

[1] https://youtu.be/sfDPJIbOk84?t=1056