The Tormented Ejaculation | E7 Trad climb

John Redhead's attempt to climb what later became Indian Face. John was trying the line ground up and took some huge falls down the face. After one particularly harrowing fall he decided to mark his high point by placing a bolt.

Excluded

Superseded by Indian Face.


Pics + Vids

John Redhead
Added at 17:03 on 20 March 2021
John Redhead
Added at 08:04 on 11 April 2021

Ascents

1 recorded ascents.

Climber Style FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
John Redhead Lead (Worked) 01 Jan 1982 (approx)

...my own attempts from 1980 have been well wagged about. I call them The Tormented Ejaculation - not just mere climbing, but an expression of the flesh and blood of my work, the poetry of rock-movement inextricably bound up with the network of shape and colour. A last look at the line and a strange impulse took hold of me. I went for it. At 70ft I woke up. Ghastly! The aggression was dissipated and the fear gripped me. I had climbed with no protection and was now eyeballing a tiny shallow crack. I remembered it from the abseil and it had looked pathetic. It was real now. I contemplated jumping on the scree below before the situation got out of control. I fell a million times, my arms unfolding, my breath fading. A no. 1 stopper came to a halt, half-way down this crack, half in, rocking - my weight was on it...the mental preparation was becoming harder and harder. The so-called psyching up, a pain beyond reason. Out of the accquaintance grew more and more fear. Gone the initial naivety that had sparked off this terrifying enterprise. I knew the score and was unnerved by it...I distinctly felt a tiny slide on a friction move lower down and became very insecure, with my feet in canyon boots. I got to the little crack another 20 feet up and was dangerously pumped because of the extra strain on my fingers. The resin was wearing off the boots. I managed to place an RP1, clipped in, and was about to place a No 2 when my right foot shot off.The strain came on the RP, ripped it through, and I cartwheeled a long way down the wall. [3]

[1] https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=115865133203706&set=a.115862679870618

[2] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115865649870321&set=a.115862679870618

[3] Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Climbers' Club Guides) 2004, Nick Dixon