Redhead was known for limiting himself to two bolts per pitch. I asked him why it was he did this:
“[Joe] Brown’s dictum before had been two pegs! It seemed reasonable. I never did like bolts anyway!” […]
When I asked Redhead about what he would consider to be his magnum opus on slate he replied:
“Possibly Raped by Affection, for the name, yes, but also for the three 30ft falls from the single badly placed 2nd bolt! I persevered a third time thinking if I fall again the bolt would pull. On the first fall, I broke a little finger but taped it up. Prancing about in lycra tights pissing off the CEB (Central Electricity Board) corporate oppressors, throwing stones at the guards – never a better time to climb…”
Raped by Affection is on the Rainbow Slab, which is, perhaps, the premier sheet of slate in the quarries. 160 feet high and 300 feet wide; its smoothness is accentuated by the lack of cracks and features. Climbers have often wondered, awestruck, what exact combination of blast charges were used to create such a perfect shear. ‘Raped…’ tackles the central line of the slab and is protected by two bolts, the first of which is at 80 feet and an excruciatingly long reach off poor footholds. [1]
[1] https://www.muskettmountaineering.co.uk/writing/slate-of-the-art/
3 successful ascents recorded.
| Climber | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|---|---|---|
| John Redhead First ascent. | Lead | worked | Jul 1984 | |
|
The long section to the first bolt at 22m was protected with three skyhooks and RURP.
References[1] Llanberis Slate. United Kingdom: Ground Up, 2011. [2] https://snowdoniamountainguides.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Slate_Historical_Section.pdf |
|||
| Johnny Dawes Second ascent. | Lead | worked | 1985 | E7 |
|
Without the skyhooks. On an onsight attempt, Dawes was unaware that Redhead had used a long sling on the bolt above the Rainbow at 80ft, as well as two pre-placed rurps – none of which were left in situ. Unable to retreat, Dawes dyno-clipped the bolt. References[1] Mountain Issue 107, page 11 /library/11129/mountain-107 |
|||
| Patch Hammond | Lead | flash | 1999 | |