Originally E7, but a candidate for the UK's first E8, according to second ascentionist Nick Dixon. Now rated E8 in the 2025 Llanberis guide, the route is said to contain 7c/+ climbing in a very serious position. An astounding ascent for 1984, climbed after a cursory abseil inspection by John Redhead. [1]
Clipped into the belay bolt, I watched Johnny as the evening quickly slipped away. He couldn't seem to commit himself to the move above the poor peg, so l shouted up some encouragement. He went for it, snatching the creaking flake above, the crucial stopper 1 in his mouth. In the failing light he couldn't locate the placement. In extremis, he screamed, "You've let me down Dave you bastard, you've let me down." Like some T.V. game, macabre in concept, I played with Johnny's life, and talked his hand to the small hole for the runner. [2]
[1] https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/clogwyn-duarddu-margins-of-the-mind
[2] Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Guidebook, 2004
[2] https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/clogwyn-duarddu-margins-of-the-mind
4 successful ascents recorded.
| Climber | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| John Redhead | Lead | worked | 25th Jul 1984 | E7 | |
| First ascent. | ||||
References |
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| Nick Dixon | Lead | worked | Jul 2003 | E8 | |
| Second ascent. | ||||
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Over two days. After inspection and preplacing some wires with ropes re-clipped on the second day. |
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| Neil Dickson | Lead | ground up | 2008 | ||
| Third ascent. Belayed by John Redhead. | ||||
| James McHaffie | Lead | worked | Jun 2013 | ||
| Fourth ascent. | ||||
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A prolonged onsight effort before being thrown a rope.
References[1] https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/clogwyn-duarddu-margins-of-the-mind |
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