Millstone Edge

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First aid ascent, utilising specially made thin pegs. [1]

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 107, page 47.

The peg was originally very poor. Proctor had failed to top rope the line, so went ground-up, slowly making progress over the course of a day.

He returned to repeat the climb for a BBC programme in 1974.

The route went unrepeated by others until the mid-70s, when Proctor drilled out the peg placement and cemented it in.

You did GREEN DEATH E5, was that an epic?

That was a turning point. I realised then that I could climb blank rock, because when you get to it, it's not blank. From below you just look up and don't see the holds, but you've got to literally, get a rope, and go down and have a look. [1]

[1] The Power of Climbing (1991), David Jones, page 38

Tom also nabbed the first winter ascent of this very fickle line in the early 1970s.

Climbed onsight, but with two controversial pegs in the shotholes. The top peg was very poor.

Birtles penduled out of Green Death for pitch 1, before handing over the lead to Tom. Tom "put his hard hat on for the first time in years".

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 107, page 47.

Using old aid bolts for protection, which have long since expired. Some controversy about a flake being removed to provide a better hold.

Originally climbed with side-runners, then again with a low peg runner.

I soloed to the top of the crag to warm up and threw a rope down the sharply defined arête. I thought it likely that chalk Jerry had left on the route would have absorbed some of the moisture in the air over the last few days and made sure I brushed the holds vigorously with a toothbrush. The arête itself looked rather enigmatic, particularly near the top, but I tested the holds and tried the Amigo in one of two shot holes at half height. I wasn't totally convinced, after tugging on it a few times, but it looked promising. That's all the preparation I did. [2]

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/288281861237996

[2] Ron Fawcett, Ed Douglas ‘Ron Fawcett: Rock Athlete’, Vertebrate Publishing, 2011

It is reported that on one of his attempts he retreated from a sky-hook, only for it to rip, depositing him on the ledge. Leach felt that he needed both a 'spotter' and a photographer. In the event Dale Goddard convinced Leach that even if he fell he would stay on the ledge, so Goddard photographed the ascent! Leach said "You can fall but you must not bounce."(2)

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/461337270599120

[2] BMC Froggatt guidebook, 1991

Climbed without pads at E7.

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/threads/new-v13-in-the-peak.350/

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/new-peak-district-gritstone-climbs-by-tom-randall.html

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=16628.0

Forcing a desperate sequence on the left. Subsequent ascents climbed more à cheval, using the same holds.

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/threads/peak-millstone-langle-parfait-8a.16705/

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bHXxbqJ-5xA

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CVLsSyBjXHT