Climbs / Index

Trad climbs

Ordered by the number of ascents recorded.

All Boulder problems 3,307 Trad climbs 2,600 Sport routes 2,183 Deep water solos 104 Aid Climbs 61 Boulder problems (indoor) 29 Alpine 24 Traverses 19 High Mountain 18
Climb Name Type Grade # Ascents Recorded Notes Exclude Reason
Longhope Route Trad climb E7 6

A superb effort, free climbing the majority of the Longhope Route (A2), tackled ground-up by John Arran and Dave Turnbull], taking in some of the most adventurous climbing in the UK.

After much effort, Dave MacLeod free climbed the headwall crack to create Longhope Route Direct (E9).

Loverboy Trad climb E8 6
Meltdown Trad climb E11 6

A project of Ron Kauk's before he suffered an injury which stopped him trying the line. Beth Rodden then invested substantial time and energy in to the line before making the first ascent in 2008. The line then waited an incredible 10 years before receiving a second ascent from Carlo Traversi.
Mercia Wall Trad climb E8 6
Minnerisset Trad climb E8 6

Norwegian grade 9-. Named in memory of Robert Caspersen's brother who died while abseiling Presten.
Necronomicon Trad climb E9 6

8b/+ depending on how well you fit the thin hands section.
Never Never Land Trad climb E7 6
Pieces of Eight Trad climb E8 6
Positron Trad climb E5 6
Prisoners of the Sun Trad climb E9 6
South Face Trad climb E7 6

An estimated 5.13b including a hard-to-grade horizontal dyno for his free ascent.

Brooke Sandahl:

Eight days later, our free bid would end a mere sixty feet from the summit anchor. Having run out of water that morning, in blistering heat, we inched higher till we hit the final aid section. Sadly, we had to aid through it. Our bid for an all-free ascent, coming from the ground, in a push, would end here. A few days later, we returned via the Tuolumne high country and were able to put together an amazing final pitch (12a), thus making the wall’s first free ascent (albeit discontinuous).

References

[1] https://climbingzine.com/old-school-south-face-mount-watkins-brooke-sandahl/
Supreme Manliness Trad climb E7 6
The Cleaver Trad climb E8 6
The Complete Scream Trad climb E8 6
The Cowboy Direct Trad climb E8 (approx) 6

East Face of Nameless Tower. Initially given VII 5.13a.
The Cumbrian Trad climb E5 6
The Hollow Man Trad climb E8 6
The Power of the Dark Side Trad climb E7 6
The Thimble Trad climb E6 (approx) 6

A pioneering 'very high highball' with V5 climbing, done ground-up in 1961 by John Gill. It is alternatively considered as a route which probably makes it the first 5.12 in the USA. The car park fence originally extended into the landing zone but has since been removed. The climb is now usually attempted above a large stack of pads.

Ironically, the climb is somewhat outside Gill's normal style: it is thin, technical and high whereas John would more typically focus on large gymnastic moves.

The rock is somewhat fragile and it is likely the route has changed since it was first done. Most notably a large hold around half height seems to have broken off. [2]

References

[1] https://americanalpineclub.org/legacy-series

[2] Kris Hampton talks about trying the line in 2026 https://open.spotify.com/episode/1P4yKmMiwDLWXdJ2ka2VR4
Tolerance Trad climb E8 6

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