Carlo Traversi

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Quick Info

Nationality: US
Date of birth: 5th June 1988
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8C+
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9a+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E11

Contributors: remus, eric.jerome

Quick Info

Nationality: US
Date of birth: 5th June 1988
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8C+
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9a+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E11
Contributors: remus, eric.jerome

Lists


Podcasts


Pics + Vids

Chocolate Jesus (8B, FA)
Added at 05:06 on 21 June 2023
The Phoenix (8B+)
Added at 07:06 on 04 June 2024
Old Man Winter (8B+)
Added at 21:12 on 24 December 2023
The Dark Side (8C+, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 17:12 on 27 December 2023
The Dark Side (8C+, FA)
Added at 21:01 on 17 January 2024
The Story of Two Worlds (8C)
Added at 05:04 on 08 April 2024
From Dirt Grows the Flowers (8C)
Added at 08:09 on 16 September 2023
Dominator (8A+)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 14:05 on 06 May 2021
Flex Luthor (9a+)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 21:11 on 15 November 2021
Creature from the Black Lagoon (8C+)
Added at 07:03 on 24 March 2021
Flex Luthor (9a+)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 06:11 on 11 November 2021
Meltdown (E11)
Added at 16:11 on 14 November 2022
Magic Line (E10)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 08:03 on 02 March 2022
Magic Line (E10)
Added at 17:06 on 07 June 2022
Empath (9a, FA)
Added at 06:06 on 12 June 2022

Ascents

29 recorded ascents.

Year Climb Grade Style Ascent Date
2007 Trice 8A+ Boulder | worked 15th Nov 2007
Second ascent?

30 years after the first ascent!

2008
2009 Masterpiece 8B Boulder | worked 2nd Nov 2009
Fourth ascent?
2010
2011 The Game 8C Boulder | worked 13th Mar 2011
Second ascent.
2012 Mirta 8B+ Boulder | worked 25th Jul 2012
In Search of Time Lost 8C Boulder | worked 19th Oct 2012
Third ascent.
Practice of the Wild 8B+ Boulder | worked 23rd Oct 2012
Heritage 8B Boulder | worked 15th Nov 2012
First ascent.
2013 Meadowlark Lemon 8B+ Boulder | worked 12th Feb 2013
The Story of Two Worlds 8C Boulder | worked 25th Mar 2013
The Kingdom 8B+ Boulder | worked 31st Mar 2013
First ascent.

The long standing Vecchio left project. Many days of work. Hardest 5 moves I've ever linked together and it's perfectly my style. Shouldery moves, high feet, and very tense climbing. Last day in Swiss and couldn't be more psyched to finally piece this one together. [1]

[1] https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/switzerland/brione/sectors/unknown-sector/routes/the-kingdom/

The Grey 8B+ Boulder | worked 2nd Jun 2013
The Penrose Step 8B+ Boulder | worked 16th Oct 2013
Spectre 8B Boulder | worked 15th Dec 2013

Clearly a personal grade for this one. Could be the single best boulder problem in the world. Tried it on my first trip to Bishop about 11 years ago and have been obsessed with the line ever since. Throughout the years as I've grown as a climber it has always been in the back of my mind. Finding out that I wasn't tall enough to use the normal toe cam beta for the crux was devastating to me. Finally becoming strong enough to climb it without that beta represents a massive step forward in my personal climbing. Holding the crux swing is one of the hardest single moves that I've done on rock. [1]

References

[1] https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/united-states/pollen-grains/sectors/unknown-sector-f6f0c/routes/spectre/

2014
2015 The Phoenix 8B+ Boulder | worked 20th Mar 2015
2016 Chocolate Jesus 8B Boulder | worked 26th Oct 2016
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1wfamPW3Eaw

2017
2018 Everything is Karate 8c+ Lead | worked 4th May 2018
Meltdown E11 Lead | worked Nov 2018
Second ascent.

A huge thanks to Beth Rodden for the vision, tenacity, and incredible climbing ability that brought this route to life over 10 years ago. The First Ascent of this route is a benchmark in the history of climbing and is one of the most impressive achievements I can think of in the last few decades. Respect.

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/carlo-traversi-repeats-meltdown-beth-rodden-masterpiece-yosemite.html

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Km6wJHdBOkg

2019 Squoze 8B+ Boulder | worked 9th Mar 2019

First tried it in 2008. Cool to return after so many years. [1]

References

[1] https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/united-states/black-velvet-canyon/sectors/wet-dream/routes/squoze/

2020 Dominator 8A+ Boulder | worked 2020

I can’t say the crux of The Dominator is the most difficult move I’ve ever done, but it’s certainly required the most patience. Sticking with the original method was a conscious decision made years ago in an effort to better appreciate an important step in the progression of bouldering. What Jerry accomplished in 1993, with this move, was a big step forward. I’ve given this move more attempts than any other in my nearly 20 years of climbing. Easily over 1000 tries. I could have switched to the newer heel hook method and been done in a day, but I resolved to take the long road. Now, having finally arrived on the other side of a long battle, I can honestly say that this move taught me more about how to move proficiently as a climber than anything else I’ve encountered. In the age of the “quick send” it’s important to find opportunities for abiding effort, especially when the result is modest on paper. Therein lies growth.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CJUI7cqMREY/

Creature from the Black Lagoon 8C+ Boulder | worked 24th Jul 2020
Empath 9a Lead | worked 15th Oct 2020
First ascent.

References

[1] https://youtu.be/jIWv6SXmrTc

Equanimity 8C Boulder | worked 3rd Nov 2020
First ascent.

Heinous power tech boulder with the worst footholds imaginable.

2021 Tierrany 8B+ Boulder | worked Apr 2021
Second ascent.
Flex Luthor 9a+ Lead | worked 10th Nov 2021
Third ascent.

No real opinion on grade, so going with Matty's suggestion for now. Definitely not easy. [3]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CWGuUCVl72B/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CWT37golzRf/

[3] https://www.8a.nu/news/flex-luthor-9b-by-carlo-traversi-4k2wr

2022 Magic Line E10 Lead | worked 27th Feb 2022
2023 From Dirt Grows the Flowers 8C Boulder | worked 2023
Old Man Winter 8B+ Boulder | worked Jun 2023
The Rookery 8B+ Boulder | worked 19th Dec 2023
First ascent.

One of the best boulders I've ever climbed. Spotted this line more than 10 years ago, but took some serious crew motivation to bring it to light. Felt very unlikely for me, but somehow pulled it together with some small box beta. Big, powerful, techy and incredibly fun climbing. Yos always delivers. [1]

References

[1] https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/united-states/highway-140/sectors/unknown-sector/routes/the-rookery/

The Dark Side 8C+ Boulder | worked 23rd Dec 2023
First ascent. Over 50 sessions.

The perfect line in the perfect place. The infamous project of Camp 4 on the left side of the Thriller boulder. Too many days to count on this one. By far the hardest thing I've climbed. Such an insane condition battle. Split tips, too humid, too dry, too warm, too cold...an endlessly frustrating battle. Started sitting, pulling off the ground on the far left side of the obvious jug rail. The grade is a suggestion. It's always hard to tell, especially when you dive this deep.

References

[1] https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/united-states/camp-4/sectors/unknown-sector-5dd83/routes/the-dark-side/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/C1XNEOLuoAv/?img_index=1

[3] https://open.spotify.com/episode/2EKSqFLzvLsJcQ3HeqFiKY?si=v1ps06SARXCr-7Qqtelryg

[4] https://www.climbing.com/news/carlo-traversi-on-establishing-yosemites-hardest-boulder

Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Flex Luthor 9a+ Lead | worked 10th Nov 2021 9b
Third ascent.

No real opinion on grade, so going with Matty's suggestion for now. Definitely not easy. [3]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CWGuUCVl72B/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CWT37golzRf/

[3] https://www.8a.nu/news/flex-luthor-9b-by-carlo-traversi-4k2wr

Empath 9a Lead | worked 15th Oct 2020 9a+
First ascent.

References

[1] https://youtu.be/jIWv6SXmrTc

Everything is Karate 8c+ Lead | worked 4th May 2018
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
The Dark Side 8C+ Boulder | worked 23rd Dec 2023
First ascent. Over 50 sessions.

The perfect line in the perfect place. The infamous project of Camp 4 on the left side of the Thriller boulder. Too many days to count on this one. By far the hardest thing I've climbed. Such an insane condition battle. Split tips, too humid, too dry, too warm, too cold...an endlessly frustrating battle. Started sitting, pulling off the ground on the far left side of the obvious jug rail. The grade is a suggestion. It's always hard to tell, especially when you dive this deep.

References

[1] https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/united-states/camp-4/sectors/unknown-sector-5dd83/routes/the-dark-side/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/C1XNEOLuoAv/?img_index=1

[3] https://open.spotify.com/episode/2EKSqFLzvLsJcQ3HeqFiKY?si=v1ps06SARXCr-7Qqtelryg

[4] https://www.climbing.com/news/carlo-traversi-on-establishing-yosemites-hardest-boulder

Creature from the Black Lagoon 8C+ Boulder | worked 24th Jul 2020
Equanimity 8C Boulder | worked 3rd Nov 2020
First ascent.

Heinous power tech boulder with the worst footholds imaginable.

The Game 8C Boulder | worked 13th Mar 2011 8C
Second ascent.
In Search of Time Lost 8C Boulder | worked 19th Oct 2012
Third ascent.
The Story of Two Worlds 8C Boulder | worked 25th Mar 2013
From Dirt Grows the Flowers 8C Boulder | worked 2023
The Kingdom 8B+ Boulder | worked 31st Mar 2013 8C
First ascent.

The long standing Vecchio left project. Many days of work. Hardest 5 moves I've ever linked together and it's perfectly my style. Shouldery moves, high feet, and very tense climbing. Last day in Swiss and couldn't be more psyched to finally piece this one together. [1]

[1] https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/switzerland/brione/sectors/unknown-sector/routes/the-kingdom/

The Penrose Step 8B+ Boulder | worked 16th Oct 2013
The Rookery 8B+ Boulder | worked 19th Dec 2023
First ascent.

One of the best boulders I've ever climbed. Spotted this line more than 10 years ago, but took some serious crew motivation to bring it to light. Felt very unlikely for me, but somehow pulled it together with some small box beta. Big, powerful, techy and incredibly fun climbing. Yos always delivers. [1]

References

[1] https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/united-states/highway-140/sectors/unknown-sector/routes/the-rookery/

Mirta 8B+ Boulder | worked 25th Jul 2012 8B
Practice of the Wild 8B+ Boulder | worked 23rd Oct 2012 8C (soft)
Meadowlark Lemon 8B+ Boulder | worked 12th Feb 2013 8B+
The Grey 8B+ Boulder | worked 2nd Jun 2013 8A+
The Phoenix 8B+ Boulder | worked 20th Mar 2015
Squoze 8B+ Boulder | worked 9th Mar 2019

First tried it in 2008. Cool to return after so many years. [1]

References

[1] https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/united-states/black-velvet-canyon/sectors/wet-dream/routes/squoze/

Tierrany 8B+ Boulder | worked Apr 2021
Second ascent.
Old Man Winter 8B+ Boulder | worked Jun 2023
Heritage 8B Boulder | worked 15th Nov 2012
First ascent.
Chocolate Jesus 8B Boulder | worked 26th Oct 2016
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1wfamPW3Eaw

Masterpiece 8B Boulder | worked 2nd Nov 2009
Fourth ascent?
Spectre 8B Boulder | worked 15th Dec 2013 8B+ (hard)

Clearly a personal grade for this one. Could be the single best boulder problem in the world. Tried it on my first trip to Bishop about 11 years ago and have been obsessed with the line ever since. Throughout the years as I've grown as a climber it has always been in the back of my mind. Finding out that I wasn't tall enough to use the normal toe cam beta for the crux was devastating to me. Finally becoming strong enough to climb it without that beta represents a massive step forward in my personal climbing. Holding the crux swing is one of the hardest single moves that I've done on rock. [1]

References

[1] https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/united-states/pollen-grains/sectors/unknown-sector-f6f0c/routes/spectre/

Trice 8A+ Boulder | worked 15th Nov 2007
Second ascent?

30 years after the first ascent!

Dominator 8A+ Boulder | worked 2020

I can’t say the crux of The Dominator is the most difficult move I’ve ever done, but it’s certainly required the most patience. Sticking with the original method was a conscious decision made years ago in an effort to better appreciate an important step in the progression of bouldering. What Jerry accomplished in 1993, with this move, was a big step forward. I’ve given this move more attempts than any other in my nearly 20 years of climbing. Easily over 1000 tries. I could have switched to the newer heel hook method and been done in a day, but I resolved to take the long road. Now, having finally arrived on the other side of a long battle, I can honestly say that this move taught me more about how to move proficiently as a climber than anything else I’ve encountered. In the age of the “quick send” it’s important to find opportunities for abiding effort, especially when the result is modest on paper. Therein lies growth.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CJUI7cqMREY/

Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Meltdown E11 Lead | worked Nov 2018
Second ascent.

A huge thanks to Beth Rodden for the vision, tenacity, and incredible climbing ability that brought this route to life over 10 years ago. The First Ascent of this route is a benchmark in the history of climbing and is one of the most impressive achievements I can think of in the last few decades. Respect.

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/carlo-traversi-repeats-meltdown-beth-rodden-masterpiece-yosemite.html

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Km6wJHdBOkg

Magic Line E10 Lead | worked 27th Feb 2022 8c+ (soft)
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade