Carlo Traversi

30 years after the first ascent!

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6iC_Q-ROKlQ

The long standing Vecchio left project. Many days of work. Hardest 5 moves I've ever linked together and it's perfectly my style. Shouldery moves, high feet, and very tense climbing. Last day in Swiss and couldn't be more psyched to finally piece this one together. [1]

[1] https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/switzerland/brione/sectors/unknown-sector/routes/the-kingdom/

References

[1] https://www.8a.nu/news/8b+-fa-by-carlo-traversi-28979

Clearly a personal grade for this one. Could be the single best boulder problem in the world. Tried it on my first trip to Bishop about 11 years ago and have been obsessed with the line ever since. Throughout the years as I've grown as a climber it has always been in the back of my mind. Finding out that I wasn't tall enough to use the normal toe cam beta for the crux was devastating to me. Finally becoming strong enough to climb it without that beta represents a massive step forward in my personal climbing. Holding the crux swing is one of the hardest single moves that I've done on rock. [1]

References

[1] https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/united-states/pollen-grains/sectors/unknown-sector-f6f0c/routes/spectre/

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8aI9o7m3atI

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1wfamPW3Eaw

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gFt6a-wlEMU

A huge thanks to Beth Rodden for the vision, tenacity, and incredible climbing ability that brought this route to life over 10 years ago. The First Ascent of this route is a benchmark in the history of climbing and is one of the most impressive achievements I can think of in the last few decades. Respect.

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/carlo-traversi-repeats-meltdown-beth-rodden-masterpiece-yosemite.html

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Km6wJHdBOkg

First tried it in 2008. Cool to return after so many years. [1]

References

[1] https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/united-states/black-velvet-canyon/sectors/wet-dream/routes/squoze/

I can’t say the crux of The Dominator is the most difficult move I’ve ever done, but it’s certainly required the most patience. Sticking with the original method was a conscious decision made years ago in an effort to better appreciate an important step in the progression of bouldering. What Jerry accomplished in 1993, with this move, was a big step forward. I’ve given this move more attempts than any other in my nearly 20 years of climbing. Easily over 1000 tries. I could have switched to the newer heel hook method and been done in a day, but I resolved to take the long road. Now, having finally arrived on the other side of a long battle, I can honestly say that this move taught me more about how to move proficiently as a climber than anything else I’ve encountered. In the age of the “quick send” it’s important to find opportunities for abiding effort, especially when the result is modest on paper. Therein lies growth.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CJUI7cqMREY/

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SwhZP0IaVbU

References

[1] https://youtu.be/jIWv6SXmrTc

Heinous power tech boulder with the worst footholds imaginable.

No real opinion on grade, so going with Matty's suggestion for now. Definitely not easy. [3]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CWGuUCVl72B/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CWT37golzRf/

[3] https://www.8a.nu/news/flex-luthor-9b-by-carlo-traversi-4k2wr

Placing the gear on lead.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CakFok_L90n/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gFY7RtPglQM

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JUcd08ryqDw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qZoChIiXzu8

One of the best boulders I've ever climbed. Spotted this line more than 10 years ago, but took some serious crew motivation to bring it to light. Felt very unlikely for me, but somehow pulled it together with some small box beta. Big, powerful, techy and incredibly fun climbing. Yos always delivers. [1]

References

[1] https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/united-states/highway-140/sectors/unknown-sector/routes/the-rookery/

The perfect line in the perfect place. The infamous project of Camp 4 on the left side of the Thriller boulder. Too many days to count on this one. By far the hardest thing I've climbed. Such an insane condition battle. Split tips, too humid, too dry, too warm, too cold...an endlessly frustrating battle. Started sitting, pulling off the ground on the far left side of the obvious jug rail. The grade is a suggestion. It's always hard to tell, especially when you dive this deep.

References

[1] https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/united-states/camp-4/sectors/unknown-sector-5dd83/routes/the-dark-side/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/C1XNEOLuoAv/?img_index=1

[3] https://open.spotify.com/episode/2EKSqFLzvLsJcQ3HeqFiKY?si=v1ps06SARXCr-7Qqtelryg

[4] https://www.climbing.com/news/carlo-traversi-on-establishing-yosemites-hardest-boulder