Carlo Traversi


Quick Info

Nationality: US
Date of birth: 5th June 1988
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8C+
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9a+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E11
Social Media

Contributors: remus

Quick Info

Nationality: US
Date of birth: 5th June 1988
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8C+
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9a+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E11
Social Media
Contributors: remus

Lists


Podcasts


Pics + Vids

Chocolate Jesus (8B, FA)
Added at 05:06 on 21 June 2023
From Dirt Grows the Flowers (8C)
Added at 08:09 on 16 September 2023
Dominator (8A+)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 14:05 on 06 May 2021
Flex Luthor (9a+)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 21:11 on 15 November 2021
Creature from the Black Lagoon (8C+)
Added at 07:03 on 24 March 2021
Flex Luthor (9a+)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 06:11 on 11 November 2021
Meltdown (E11)
Added at 16:11 on 14 November 2022
Magic Line (E10)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 08:03 on 02 March 2022
Magic Line (E10)
Added at 17:06 on 07 June 2022
Empath (9a+, FA)
Added at 06:06 on 12 June 2022

Ascents

17 recorded ascents.

Year Climb Grade Ascent Date
2011 The Game 8C (Boulder worked) 13th Mar 2011
Second ascent.
2012 Mirta 8B+ (Boulder worked) 25th Jul 2012
Practice of the Wild 8B+ (Boulder worked) 23rd Oct 2012
Heritage 8B (Boulder worked) 15th Nov 2012
First ascent.
2013 Meadowlark Lemon 8B+ (Boulder worked) 12th Feb 2013
The Kingdom 8B+ (Boulder worked) 31st Mar 2013
First ascent.

The long standing Vecchio left project. Many days of work. Hardest 5 moves I've ever linked together and it's perfectly my style. Shouldery moves, high feet, and very tense climbing. Last day in Swiss and couldn't be more psyched to finally piece this one together. [1]

[1] https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/switzerland/brione/sectors/unknown-sector/routes/the-kingdom/

The Penrose Step 8B+ (Boulder worked) 16th Oct 2013
First ascent.

https://www.8a.nu/news/8b+-fa-by-carlo-traversi-28979

2014
2015
2016 Chocolate Jesus 8B (Boulder worked) 26th Oct 2016
First ascent.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1wfamPW3Eaw

2017
2018 Meltdown E11 (Lead worked) Nov 2018
Second ascent.

References

A huge thanks to Beth Rodden for the vision, tenacity, and incredible climbing ability that brought this route to life over 10 years ago. The First Ascent of this route is a benchmark in the history of climbing and is one of the most impressive achievements I can think of in the last few decades. Respect.

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/carlo-traversi-repeats-meltdown-beth-rodden-masterpiece-yosemite.html

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Km6wJHdBOkg

2019
2020 Dominator 8A+ (Boulder worked) 2020

I can’t say the crux of The Dominator is the most difficult move I’ve ever done, but it’s certainly required the most patience. Sticking with the original method was a conscious decision made years ago in an effort to better appreciate an important step in the progression of bouldering. What Jerry accomplished in 1993, with this move, was a big step forward. I’ve given this move more attempts than any other in my nearly 20 years of climbing. Easily over 1000 tries. I could have switched to the newer heel hook method and been done in a day, but I resolved to take the long road. Now, having finally arrived on the other side of a long battle, I can honestly say that this move taught me more about how to move proficiently as a climber than anything else I’ve encountered. In the age of the “quick send” it’s important to find opportunities for abiding effort, especially when the result is modest on paper. Therein lies growth.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CJUI7cqMREY/

Creature from the Black Lagoon 8C+ (Boulder worked) 24th Jul 2020

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SwhZP0IaVbU

Empath 9a+ (Lead worked) 15th Oct 2020
First ascent.

https://youtu.be/jIWv6SXmrTc

Equanimity 8C (Boulder worked) 3rd Nov 2020
First ascent.

Heinous power tech boulder with the worst footholds imaginable.

2021 Tierrany 8B+ (Boulder worked) Apr 2021

Second ascent.

Flex Luthor 9a+ (Lead worked) 10th Nov 2021
Third ascent.

No real opinion on grade, so going with Matty's suggestion for now. Definitely not easy. [3]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CWGuUCVl72B/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CWT37golzRf/

[3] https://www.8a.nu/news/flex-luthor-9b-by-carlo-traversi-4k2wr

2022 Magic Line E10 (Lead worked) Feb 2022

Placing the gear on lead.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CakFok_L90n/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gFY7RtPglQM

2023 From Dirt Grows the Flowers 8C (Boulder worked) 2023

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JUcd08ryqDw

Climb Grade Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Empath 9a+ (Lead worked) 15th Oct 2020 9a+
First ascent.

https://youtu.be/jIWv6SXmrTc

Flex Luthor 9a+ (Lead worked) 10th Nov 2021 9b
Third ascent.

No real opinion on grade, so going with Matty's suggestion for now. Definitely not easy. [3]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CWGuUCVl72B/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CWT37golzRf/

[3] https://www.8a.nu/news/flex-luthor-9b-by-carlo-traversi-4k2wr

Climb Grade Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Creature from the Black Lagoon 8C+ (Boulder worked) 24th Jul 2020

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SwhZP0IaVbU

Equanimity 8C (Boulder worked) 3rd Nov 2020
First ascent.

Heinous power tech boulder with the worst footholds imaginable.

The Game 8C (Boulder worked) 13th Mar 2011 8C
Second ascent.
From Dirt Grows the Flowers 8C (Boulder worked) 2023

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JUcd08ryqDw

The Kingdom 8B+ (Boulder worked) 31st Mar 2013 8C
First ascent.

The long standing Vecchio left project. Many days of work. Hardest 5 moves I've ever linked together and it's perfectly my style. Shouldery moves, high feet, and very tense climbing. Last day in Swiss and couldn't be more psyched to finally piece this one together. [1]

[1] https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/switzerland/brione/sectors/unknown-sector/routes/the-kingdom/

The Penrose Step 8B+ (Boulder worked) 16th Oct 2013
First ascent.

https://www.8a.nu/news/8b+-fa-by-carlo-traversi-28979

Mirta 8B+ (Boulder worked) 25th Jul 2012 8B
Practice of the Wild 8B+ (Boulder worked) 23rd Oct 2012 8C (soft)
Meadowlark Lemon 8B+ (Boulder worked) 12th Feb 2013 8B+
Tierrany 8B+ (Boulder worked) Apr 2021

Second ascent.

Heritage 8B (Boulder worked) 15th Nov 2012
First ascent.
Chocolate Jesus 8B (Boulder worked) 26th Oct 2016
First ascent.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1wfamPW3Eaw

Dominator 8A+ (Boulder worked) 2020

I can’t say the crux of The Dominator is the most difficult move I’ve ever done, but it’s certainly required the most patience. Sticking with the original method was a conscious decision made years ago in an effort to better appreciate an important step in the progression of bouldering. What Jerry accomplished in 1993, with this move, was a big step forward. I’ve given this move more attempts than any other in my nearly 20 years of climbing. Easily over 1000 tries. I could have switched to the newer heel hook method and been done in a day, but I resolved to take the long road. Now, having finally arrived on the other side of a long battle, I can honestly say that this move taught me more about how to move proficiently as a climber than anything else I’ve encountered. In the age of the “quick send” it’s important to find opportunities for abiding effort, especially when the result is modest on paper. Therein lies growth.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CJUI7cqMREY/

Climb Grade Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Meltdown E11 (Lead worked) Nov 2018
Second ascent.

References

A huge thanks to Beth Rodden for the vision, tenacity, and incredible climbing ability that brought this route to life over 10 years ago. The First Ascent of this route is a benchmark in the history of climbing and is one of the most impressive achievements I can think of in the last few decades. Respect.

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/carlo-traversi-repeats-meltdown-beth-rodden-masterpiece-yosemite.html

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Km6wJHdBOkg

Magic Line E10 (Lead worked) Feb 2022

Placing the gear on lead.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CakFok_L90n/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gFY7RtPglQM

Climb Grade Ascent Date Suggested Grade