John Gill
Quick Info ˅
| Nationality: | US |
| Date of birth: | 16th February 1937 |
| Hardest Boulder (Worked): | 7C |
John Gill was one of the pioneers of bouldering, putting up many hard fist ascents in the US in a time when bouldering was not understood as an activity in it's own right.
With a background in gymnastics Gill applied a similar mentality to rock climbing by transferring some of the training ideas to rock climbing. He was also one of the first climbers to consider the use of gymnastic chalk while rock climbing.
In stark contrast to modern bouldering, where the focus is on physicality and doing the hardest problems possible, Gill's focus was on form and quality of movement while climbing a problem. This did not stop him from establishing many extraordinarily hard problems however, and for a many decades his problems were amongst the hardest in the world.
When he applied his skills to taller routes Gill also excelled. His route The Thimble, climbed solo and ground up in 1961 and considered around 7a+ was well ahead of it's time. After attempting to repeat the line, Royal Robbins said of it
I considered my greatest failure to be my efforts on the thimble. I could see that even if I worked on it forever I would never achieve it.
References
[1] https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/
[2] Pat Ament, John Gill, Yvon Chouinard, Rearick, Dave. John Gill: Master of Rock: The Life of a Bouldering Legend. United Kingdom: Vertebrate Publishing, 2018.
[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FdMLil9lNU
[4] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9yaGXFkC8M
Podcasts
Pics + Vids
The Thimble (7a+, FA)
The Thimble (7a+, FA)
Double Clutch (6B, FA)
Ascents
3 recorded ascents.
| Year | Climb | Grade | Style | Ascent Date |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1959 | Red Cross Overhang | 7C | Boulder | worked | 1959 |
|
First ascent.
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| 1960 | ||||
| 1961 | The Thimble | 7a+ | Solo | ground up | 1961 |
|
First ascent.
A truly remarkable ascent for it's time. It was worked from the ground up, without the benefit of climbing shoes or bouldering mats. |
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| Climb | Grade | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| The Thimble | 7a+ | Solo | ground up | 1961 | |
|
First ascent.
A truly remarkable ascent for it's time. It was worked from the ground up, without the benefit of climbing shoes or bouldering mats. |
||||
| Climb | Grade | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Red Cross Overhang | 7C | Boulder | worked | 1959 | |
|
First ascent.
|
||||
| Double Clutch | 6B | Boulder | worked | ||
|
First ascent.
References[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/945135292219313 |
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| Climb | Grade | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
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| Climb | Grade | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
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