South Face | E7/8a Multi-pitch on Mount Watkins


18 pitches. Free version of South Face Mount Watkins (A3).

An estimated 5.13b including a hard-to-grade horizontal dyno for his free ascent.

Brooke Sandahl:

Eight days later, our free bid would end a mere sixty feet from the summit anchor. Having run out of water that morning, in blistering heat, we inched higher till we hit the final aid section. Sadly, we had to aid through it. Our bid for an all-free ascent, coming from the ground, in a push, would end here. A few days later, we returned via the Tuolumne high country and were able to put together an amazing final pitch (12a), thus making the wall’s first free ascent (albeit discontinuous).

References

[1] https://climbingzine.com/old-school-south-face-mount-watkins-brooke-sandahl/

Contributors
duncancritchley
49 contributions since 17th December 2025.
remus
4 contributions since 17th December 2025.

Pics + Vids

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Ascents

6 successful ascents recorded.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Brooke Sandahl Lead | worked 1996
With Steve Sutton. First free ascent.
Steve Sutton Alternate Leads | worked 1996
With Brooke Sandahl. First free ascent.
Siebe Vanhee Alternate Leads | worked 28th Nov 2017

Free in 12 hours.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/BcAm68zBlC8/

Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll Alternate Leads | worked 28th Nov 2017
Nicola Martinez Alternate Leads | worked 28th Nov 2017
Nicolas Favresse Alternate Leads | worked 28th Nov 2017