Fred Nicole


Quick Info

Nationality: CH
Height: 180 cm
Date of birth: 21 May 1970
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8C
Hardest Boulder (Flash): 8A+
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9a+
Social Media

Fred Nicole is a legend of modern bouldering having established the first 8B with La Danse des Balrogs, the first 8B+ with Radja and many of the earliest 8Cs. He is also notable for some hard sport routes, in particular he established Bain de Sang in 1993 which gets 9a.

He is also notable for developing many now-famous bouldering areas around the world, including Hueco Tanks, Rocklands and many more.

References

[1] Interview with Nicholas Hobley for planetmountain.com, 13th August 2012 https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/fred-nicole-the-bouldering-interview.html

[2] Profile with Black Diamond https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_X_oq3ZdnmU

[3] Tour de Bloc by Udo Neumann, 2006 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=exAhhD0n8QU

[4] Rocklands Origins, 1996 https://vimeo.com/80004515

Quick Info

Nationality: CH
Height: 180 cm
Date of birth: 21 May 1970
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8C
Hardest Boulder (Flash): 8A+
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9a+
Social Media

Fred Nicole is a legend of modern bouldering having established the first 8B with La Danse des Balrogs, the first 8B+ with Radja and many of the earliest 8Cs. He is also notable for some hard sport routes, in particular he established Bain de Sang in 1993 which gets 9a.

He is also notable for developing many now-famous bouldering areas around the world, including Hueco Tanks, Rocklands and many more.

References

[1] Interview with Nicholas Hobley for planetmountain.com, 13th August 2012 https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/fred-nicole-the-bouldering-interview.html

[2] Profile with Black Diamond https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_X_oq3ZdnmU

[3] Tour de Bloc by Udo Neumann, 2006 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=exAhhD0n8QU

[4] Rocklands Origins, 1996 https://vimeo.com/80004515


Pics + Vids

Added at 17:02 on 04 February 2022
Added at 20:02 on 05 February 2022
Added at 17:02 on 04 February 2022
Added at 17:02 on 04 February 2022
Slashface (8B, FA)
Added at 19:02 on 28 February 2021
Alma Blanca (8B, FA)
Added at 20:02 on 28 February 2021
Slashface (8B, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 07:03 on 28 March 2021
Terremer (8C, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 07:03 on 28 March 2021
Coeur de Lion (8B+, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 07:03 on 28 March 2021
Le Boa (8C, FA)
Added at 17:02 on 04 February 2022
La Danse des Balrogs (8B, FA)
Added at 17:02 on 04 February 2022
Radja (8B+, FA)
Added at 17:02 on 04 February 2022

Ascents

31 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Year Climb Grade FA Ascent Date
1992 La Danse des Balrogs 8B (Boulder) 01 Jan 1992 (approx)

https://youtu.be/exAhhD0n8QU?t=728

1993 Bain de Sang 9a (Lead) 01 Sep 1993 (approx)
1994
1995 Dominator 8A+ (Boulder) 01 Jan 1995 (approx)

Controversially, Fred dabbed his spotter on his ascent.

Karma 8A+ (Boulder) 01 Jan 1995 (approx)
1996 Caroline 7C+ (Boulder) 01 Jan 1996 (approx)
Radja 8B+ (Boulder) 01 Mar 1996

With this ascent Fred became the first person in the world to climb 8B+.

https://youtu.be/exAhhD0n8QU?t=807

1997 Slashface 8B (Boulder) 01 Jan 1997 (approx)

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/456926684373512

https://www.instagram.com/p/CM7d5fqniuu/

1998 Coeur de Lion 8B+ (Boulder) 01 Jan 1998 (approx)

https://www.instagram.com/p/CM7d5fqniuu/

La Proue 8B (Boulder) 01 Jan 1998 (approx)
1999
2000 Oliphant's Dawn 8B+ (Boulder) 01 Sep 2000 (approx)

Three hard moves, the first one being the hardest of them with a real special gaston crimp. For the grade, I'm not sure since the effort is so short. But it is certainly one of the hardest single moves I've ever done. Conditions are really important for this climb: the place is hot and sunny and I did it really early one morning during what was one of my best years of bouldering. [1]

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/fred-nicole-the-bouldering-interview.html

Dreamtime (pre break) 8B+ (Boulder) 28 Oct 2000

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/fred-nicole-sends-dreamtime-8c-at-cresciano-switzerland.html

2001 Spectre 8B (Boulder) 20 Jan 2001

[https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/fred-nicole-the-bouldering-interview.html

Esperanza 8B+ (Boulder) 15 Feb 2001
2002 La Chimère 9a+ (Lead) 01 Jan 2002 (approx)
Black Eagle Assis (pre break) 8B+ (Boulder) 01 Jan 2002 (approx)
Monkey Wedding 8C (Boulder) 20 Aug 2002
2003 Mooiste Meisie 8B (Boulder) 01 Jan 2003 (approx)
New Base Line 8B+ (Boulder) 01 Mar 2003 (approx)

Second ascent.

Massive Attack 8A+ (Boulder Flash) 12 May 2003
2004 Terre de Sienne 8B (Boulder) 01 Dec 2004 (approx)
2005 Entlinge 8B+ (Boulder) 01 Jan 2005 (approx)
Terremer 8C (Boulder) 01 Jan 2005 (approx)

https://www.instagram.com/p/CM7d5fqniuu/

2006 Witness the Fitness 8C (Boulder) 01 Dec 2006 (approx)

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/fred-nicole-the-bouldering-interview.html

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2007/01/fred_nicole_repeats_sharmas_witness_the_fitness-32728

2007
2008
2009 The Swarm 8B+ (Boulder) 01 Jan 2009 (approx)

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/fred-nicole-the-bouldering-interview.html

2010
2011 Le Boa 8C (Boulder) 01 Jan 2011 (approx)

https://youtu.be/dQW3v7-pYXk?t=302

2012
2013
2014
2015
2016
2017
2018
2019 Legacy 9a (Lead) 13 Sep 2019

Second ascent.

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
La Chimère 9a+ (Lead) 01 Jan 2002 (approx)
Bain de Sang 9a (Lead) 01 Sep 1993 (approx)
Legacy 9a (Lead) 13 Sep 2019

Second ascent.

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Monkey Wedding 8C (Boulder) 20 Aug 2002 8B+
Terremer 8C (Boulder) 01 Jan 2005 (approx)

https://www.instagram.com/p/CM7d5fqniuu/

Le Boa 8C (Boulder) 01 Jan 2011 (approx)

https://youtu.be/dQW3v7-pYXk?t=302

Witness the Fitness 8C (Boulder) 01 Dec 2006 (approx)

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/fred-nicole-the-bouldering-interview.html

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2007/01/fred_nicole_repeats_sharmas_witness_the_fitness-32728

Radja 8B+ (Boulder) 01 Mar 1996

With this ascent Fred became the first person in the world to climb 8B+.

https://youtu.be/exAhhD0n8QU?t=807

Coeur de Lion 8B+ (Boulder) 01 Jan 1998 (approx)

https://www.instagram.com/p/CM7d5fqniuu/

Oliphant's Dawn 8B+ (Boulder) 01 Sep 2000 (approx)

Three hard moves, the first one being the hardest of them with a real special gaston crimp. For the grade, I'm not sure since the effort is so short. But it is certainly one of the hardest single moves I've ever done. Conditions are really important for this climb: the place is hot and sunny and I did it really early one morning during what was one of my best years of bouldering. [1]

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/fred-nicole-the-bouldering-interview.html

Dreamtime (pre break) 8B+ (Boulder) 28 Oct 2000 8C

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/fred-nicole-sends-dreamtime-8c-at-cresciano-switzerland.html

Esperanza 8B+ (Boulder) 15 Feb 2001
Black Eagle Assis (pre break) 8B+ (Boulder) 01 Jan 2002 (approx)
Entlinge 8B+ (Boulder) 01 Jan 2005 (approx)
Amandala 8B+ (Boulder)
New Base Line 8B+ (Boulder) 01 Mar 2003 (approx)

Second ascent.

The Swarm 8B+ (Boulder) 01 Jan 2009 (approx)

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/fred-nicole-the-bouldering-interview.html

New Base Line 8B+ (Boulder)

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/fred-nicole-the-bouldering-interview.html

La Danse des Balrogs 8B (Boulder) 01 Jan 1992 (approx)

https://youtu.be/exAhhD0n8QU?t=728

Slashface 8B (Boulder) 01 Jan 1997 (approx)

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/456926684373512

https://www.instagram.com/p/CM7d5fqniuu/

La Proue 8B (Boulder) 01 Jan 1998 (approx)
Mooiste Meisie 8B (Boulder) 01 Jan 2003 (approx)
Terre de Sienne 8B (Boulder) 01 Dec 2004 (approx) 8C
Alma Blanca 8B (Boulder)

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/451840591548788

Spectre 8B (Boulder) 20 Jan 2001

[https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/fred-nicole-the-bouldering-interview.html

Ammagamma 8B (Boulder)

In a session.

Karma 8A+ (Boulder) 01 Jan 1995 (approx)
Dominator 8A+ (Boulder) 01 Jan 1995 (approx)

Controversially, Fred dabbed his spotter on his ascent.

Massive Attack 8A+ (Boulder Flash) 12 May 2003
Team Work 8A (Boulder)
Caroline 7C+ (Boulder) 01 Jan 1996 (approx)
Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade