Johnny Woodward


Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Hardest Sport (Worked): 8b+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E7

Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Hardest Sport (Worked): 8b+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E7

Pics + Vids

Dog Eat Dog (8b+, FA)
Added at 20:03 on 22 March 2024

Ascents

8 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Year Climb Grade Style Ascent Date
1977 Piece Of Mind E6 Lead | worked 15th Oct 1977
First ascent.
1978
1979
1980
1981
1982 Strawberries E7 Lead | worked 1982
Third ascent.

I first tried it in the Spring of '82 on a dismal, damp and grey day. I was less than motivated to try anything that hard on that particular day, but I was climbing with Jerry Moffatt and he is an enthusiastic and persuasive fellow. The attempt ended predictably, low on the pitch, at the technical crux.

My next try was during the International Exchange Meet with the American crew in September '82. I was with the late Alex Lowe that day, climbing pretty well and keen to try it. I think I fell from the crux twice, then got through it and made it really high on the pitch to a place where I could get a shake. At that point I was so gassed that I was not recovering at all, and after a few minutes it was clear that I was not going to make it that try.

There was a big peanut gallery above the Meshach wall, interested in witnessing some sort of spectacle. I remember being far enough above the gear that I was a bit gripped about breaking the RPs, so I asked Alex to keep taking in the rope till he eventually pulled me off, so that the slack was minimized.

The gear held just fine. I rested and did it the next go. Alex enjoyed telling people of how he once got to pull someone off a route at the end of a run-out. These were the days of placing gear as you went and yoyo-ing back to the belay after you fell. Redpointing was not widely practised in '82 and I do not recall whether I pulled the rope or not.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/strawberries_-_a_british_on_sight-1117

Beau Geste E7 Lead | worked 14th Feb 1982
First ascent.

Athletic seconds required to prevent cratering. [1]

References

[1] Lovers' Leap Café, Stoney Middleton: New Route Books - 1982-1994 (RockArchivist - New Route Books), Phil Kelly 2023. Page 4.

Ninth Life E7 Lead | worked 28th Apr 1982
First ascent.

Jerry Moffatt was so incensed that Woodward had plucked the FA from under him (after his huge ground fall) the he never spoke to him again.

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116578579799028

1983
1984
1985
1986
1987
1988
1989
1990
1991
1992 Moonlight Buttress E6 Alternate Leads | worked 1992
First ascent.
1993
1994
1995 Trench Warfare E7 Lead | worked 1995
First ascent.
Dog Eat Dog 8b+ Lead | worked 1995
First ascent.

The only route Johnny ever invested time in to redpointing.

It took forever and I just thought I might never do it...After I redpointed it, it was so traumatic, I had this other project and I immediately went and took all the bolts out because I was just like "I never want to do this again". Having said that, I'm very proud of Dog Eat Dog. [1]

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wajWz6vBjXY

Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Dog Eat Dog 8b+ Lead | worked 1995
First ascent.

The only route Johnny ever invested time in to redpointing.

It took forever and I just thought I might never do it...After I redpointed it, it was so traumatic, I had this other project and I immediately went and took all the bolts out because I was just like "I never want to do this again". Having said that, I'm very proud of Dog Eat Dog. [1]

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wajWz6vBjXY

Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Beau Geste E7 Lead | worked 14th Feb 1982
First ascent.

Athletic seconds required to prevent cratering. [1]

References

[1] Lovers' Leap Café, Stoney Middleton: New Route Books - 1982-1994 (RockArchivist - New Route Books), Phil Kelly 2023. Page 4.

Ninth Life E7 Lead | worked 28th Apr 1982
First ascent.

Jerry Moffatt was so incensed that Woodward had plucked the FA from under him (after his huge ground fall) the he never spoke to him again.

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116578579799028

Trench Warfare E7 Lead | worked 1995
First ascent.
Strawberries E7 Lead | worked 1982
Third ascent.

I first tried it in the Spring of '82 on a dismal, damp and grey day. I was less than motivated to try anything that hard on that particular day, but I was climbing with Jerry Moffatt and he is an enthusiastic and persuasive fellow. The attempt ended predictably, low on the pitch, at the technical crux.

My next try was during the International Exchange Meet with the American crew in September '82. I was with the late Alex Lowe that day, climbing pretty well and keen to try it. I think I fell from the crux twice, then got through it and made it really high on the pitch to a place where I could get a shake. At that point I was so gassed that I was not recovering at all, and after a few minutes it was clear that I was not going to make it that try.

There was a big peanut gallery above the Meshach wall, interested in witnessing some sort of spectacle. I remember being far enough above the gear that I was a bit gripped about breaking the RPs, so I asked Alex to keep taking in the rope till he eventually pulled me off, so that the slack was minimized.

The gear held just fine. I rested and did it the next go. Alex enjoyed telling people of how he once got to pull someone off a route at the end of a run-out. These were the days of placing gear as you went and yoyo-ing back to the belay after you fell. Redpointing was not widely practised in '82 and I do not recall whether I pulled the rope or not.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/strawberries_-_a_british_on_sight-1117

Ray's Roof E7 Lead | did not finish
Piece Of Mind E6 Lead | worked 15th Oct 1977
First ascent.
Moonlight Buttress E6 Alternate Leads | worked 1992
First ascent.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade