Johnny Woodward

First ascent.

Third ascent.

I first tried it in the Spring of '82 on a dismal, damp and grey day. I was less than motivated to try anything that hard on that particular day, but I was climbing with Jerry Moffatt and he is an enthusiastic and persuasive fellow. The attempt ended predictably, low on the pitch, at the technical crux.

My next try was during the International Exchange Meet with the American crew in September '82. I was with the late Alex Lowe that day, climbing pretty well and keen to try it. I think I fell from the crux twice, then got through it and made it really high on the pitch to a place where I could get a shake. At that point I was so gassed that I was not recovering at all, and after a few minutes it was clear that I was not going to make it that try.

There was a big peanut gallery above the Meshach wall, interested in witnessing some sort of spectacle. I remember being far enough above the gear that I was a bit gripped about breaking the RPs, so I asked Alex to keep taking in the rope till he eventually pulled me off, so that the slack was minimized.

The gear held just fine. I rested and did it the next go. Alex enjoyed telling people of how he once got to pull someone off a route at the end of a run-out. These were the days of placing gear as you went and yoyo-ing back to the belay after you fell. Redpointing was not widely practised in '82 and I do not recall whether I pulled the rope or not.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/strawberries_-_a_british_on_sight-1117

First ascent.

Athletic seconds required to prevent cratering. [1]

References

[1] Lovers' Leap Café, Stoney Middleton: New Route Books - 1982-1994 (RockArchivist - New Route Books), Phil Kelly 2023. Page 4.

First ascent.

Jerry Moffatt was so incensed that Woodward had plucked the FA from under him (after his huge ground fall) the he never spoke to him again.

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116578579799028

First ascent.

First ascent.

First ascent.

The only route Johnny ever invested time in to redpointing.

It took forever and I just thought I might never do it...After I redpointed it, it was so traumatic, I had this other project and I immediately went and took all the bolts out because I was just like "I never want to do this again". Having said that, I'm very proud of Dog Eat Dog. [1]

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wajWz6vBjXY