Change Log for Indian Face

Overview

Total Changes

43

First Change

3rd Jan 2021

Last Change

26th Nov 2024

Log

Date Time User Type Name Attribute
1 26th November 2024 07:43:22 remus ascent George Ulrich notes
Before
### References [1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/07/ullrich_and_muskett_climb_the_indian_face-68213](https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/07/ullrich_and_muskett_climb_the_indian_face-68213)
After
### References [1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/07/ullrich_and_muskett_climb_the_indian_face-68213](https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/07/ullrich_and_muskett_climb_the_indian_face-68213) [2] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/george_ullrich_talks_about_indian_face-5787](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/george_ullrich_talks_about_indian_face-5787)
Diff
--- before +++ after @@ -1,3 +1,5 @@ ### References -[1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/07/ullrich_and_muskett_climb_the_indian_face-68213](https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/07/ullrich_and_muskett_climb_the_indian_face-68213) +[1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/07/ullrich_and_muskett_climb_the_indian_face-68213](https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/07/ullrich_and_muskett_climb_the_indian_face-68213) + +[2] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/george_ullrich_talks_about_indian_face-5787](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/george_ullrich_talks_about_indian_face-5787)
2 26th November 2024 07:43:22 remus ascent George Ulrich notes_pretty
Before
<h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/07/ullrich_and_muskett_climb_the_indian_face-68213">https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/07/ullrich_and_muskett_climb_the_indian_face-68213</a></p>
After
<h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/07/ullrich_and_muskett_climb_the_indian_face-68213">https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/07/ullrich_and_muskett_climb_the_indian_face-68213</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/george_ullrich_talks_about_indian_face-5787">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/george_ullrich_talks_about_indian_face-5787</a></p>
3 25th October 2024 17:06:00 remus - - notes_pretty
Before
<p>The first E9 in the UK. Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p> <blockquote> <p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p> <p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p> <p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams">Paul Williams</a>. Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.</p> <p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c">E9 6c</a></p>
After
<p>The first E9 in the UK. Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p> <blockquote> <p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p> <p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p> <p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p> </blockquote> <p>After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead">John Redhead</a> painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed.</p> <p><a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes">Johnny Dawes</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>The real shame is that John [redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams">Paul Williams</a>. Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.</p> <p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c">E9 6c</a></p>
4 25th October 2024 17:06:00 remus - - notes
Before
The first E9 in the UK. Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows: > It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre... > Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent... > The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1] ### References [1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989. [2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c)
After
The first E9 in the UK. Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows: > It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre... > Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent... > The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1] After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed. [Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): > The real shame is that John [redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2] ### References [1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989. [2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c)
Diff
--- before +++ after @@ -6,6 +6,12 @@ > The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1] +After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and [John Redhead](/climber/623/john-redhead) painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed. + +[Johnny Dawes](/climber/561/johnny-dawes): + +> The real shame is that John [redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2] + ### References [1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.
5 25th October 2024 17:02:20 remus - - notes_pretty
Before
<p>The first E9 in the UK. Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p> <blockquote> <p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p> <p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p> <p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams">Paul Williams</a>. Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.</p>
After
<p>The first E9 in the UK. Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p> <blockquote> <p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p> <p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p> <p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams">Paul Williams</a>. Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.</p> <p>[2] <a href="/library/7496/e9-6c">E9 6c</a></p>
6 25th October 2024 17:02:20 remus - - notes
Before
The first E9 in the UK. Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows: > It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre... > Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent... > The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1] ### References [1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.
After
The first E9 in the UK. Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows: > It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre... > Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent... > The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1] ### References [1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989. [2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c)
Diff
--- before +++ after @@ -8,4 +8,6 @@ ### References -[1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989. +[1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989. + +[2] [E9 6c](/library/7496/e9-6c)
7 28th August 2024 17:59:30 remus ascent Nick Dixon notes
Before
> There's one move where I got a left hand sidepull and my right hand was on some nobbles and I came out of my head space because I realised that I couldn't move from that position as freely as planned and pre-practiced as I hadn't accounted for the rope drag. I had to snatch for the next hold, some pebbles. There were about three seconds where I lost my calm a little bit and I had to collect myself. I think Neil had far more of a worry on it. [1] > It's like an HVS, only with smaller holds. [2] ### References [1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/nick_dixon_-_indian_face_the_first_repeat-5756](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/nick_dixon_-_indian_face_the_first_repeat-5756) [2] [Colin Wells](/climber/1889/colin-wells). Who's who in British Climbing: Bite-sized Biographies of Dead Climbers - and Some that are Still Alive. United Kingdom: Climbing Company, 2008.
After
> There's one move where I got a left hand sidepull and my right hand was on some nobbles and I came out of my head space because I realised that I couldn't move from that position as freely as planned and pre-practiced as I hadn't accounted for the rope drag. I had to snatch for the next hold, some pebbles. There were about three seconds where I lost my calm a little bit and I had to collect myself. I think Neil had far more of a worry on it. [1] - > It's like an HVS, only with smaller holds. [2] ### References [1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/nick_dixon_-_indian_face_the_first_repeat-5756](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/nick_dixon_-_indian_face_the_first_repeat-5756) [2] [Colin Wells](/climber/1889/colin-wells). Who's who in British Climbing: Bite-sized Biographies of Dead Climbers - and Some that are Still Alive. United Kingdom: Climbing Company, 2008.
Diff
--- before +++ after @@ -1,5 +1,6 @@ > There's one move where I got a left hand sidepull and my right hand was on some nobbles and I came out of my head space because I realised that I couldn't move from that position as freely as planned and pre-practiced as I hadn't accounted for the rope drag. I had to snatch for the next hold, some pebbles. There were about three seconds where I lost my calm a little bit and I had to collect myself. I think Neil had far more of a worry on it. [1] +- > It's like an HVS, only with smaller holds. [2]
8 28th August 2024 17:59:30 remus ascent Nick Dixon notes_pretty
Before
<blockquote> <p>There's one move where I got a left hand sidepull and my right hand was on some nobbles and I came out of my head space because I realised that I couldn't move from that position as freely as planned and pre-practiced as I hadn't accounted for the rope drag. I had to snatch for the next hold, some pebbles. There were about three seconds where I lost my calm a little bit and I had to collect myself. I think Neil had far more of a worry on it. [1]</p> <p>It's like an HVS, only with smaller holds. [2]</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/nick_dixon_-_indian_face_the_first_repeat-5756">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/nick_dixon_-_indian_face_the_first_repeat-5756</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="/climber/1889/colin-wells">Colin Wells</a>. Who's who in British Climbing: Bite-sized Biographies of Dead Climbers - and Some that are Still Alive. United Kingdom: Climbing Company, 2008.</p>
After
<blockquote> <p>There's one move where I got a left hand sidepull and my right hand was on some nobbles and I came out of my head space because I realised that I couldn't move from that position as freely as planned and pre-practiced as I hadn't accounted for the rope drag. I had to snatch for the next hold, some pebbles. There were about three seconds where I lost my calm a little bit and I had to collect myself. I think Neil had far more of a worry on it. [1]</p> </blockquote> <p>-</p> <blockquote> <p>It's like an HVS, only with smaller holds. [2]</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/nick_dixon_-_indian_face_the_first_repeat-5756">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/nick_dixon_-_indian_face_the_first_repeat-5756</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="/climber/1889/colin-wells">Colin Wells</a>. Who's who in British Climbing: Bite-sized Biographies of Dead Climbers - and Some that are Still Alive. United Kingdom: Climbing Company, 2008.</p>
9 28th August 2024 17:59:11 remus ascent Nick Dixon notes_pretty
Before
<blockquote> <p>There's one move where I got a left hand sidepull and my right hand was on some nobbles and I came out of my head space because I realised that I couldn't move from that position as freely as planned and pre-practiced as I hadn't accounted for the rope drag. I had to snatch for the next hold, some pebbles. There were about three seconds where I lost my calm a little bit and I had to collect myself. I think Neil had far more of a worry on it. [1]</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/nick_dixon_-_indian_face_the_first_repeat-5756">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/nick_dixon_-_indian_face_the_first_repeat-5756</a></p>
After
<blockquote> <p>There's one move where I got a left hand sidepull and my right hand was on some nobbles and I came out of my head space because I realised that I couldn't move from that position as freely as planned and pre-practiced as I hadn't accounted for the rope drag. I had to snatch for the next hold, some pebbles. There were about three seconds where I lost my calm a little bit and I had to collect myself. I think Neil had far more of a worry on it. [1]</p> <p>It's like an HVS, only with smaller holds. [2]</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/nick_dixon_-_indian_face_the_first_repeat-5756">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/nick_dixon_-_indian_face_the_first_repeat-5756</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="/climber/1889/colin-wells">Colin Wells</a>. Who's who in British Climbing: Bite-sized Biographies of Dead Climbers - and Some that are Still Alive. United Kingdom: Climbing Company, 2008.</p>
10 28th August 2024 17:59:11 remus ascent Nick Dixon notes
Before
> There's one move where I got a left hand sidepull and my right hand was on some nobbles and I came out of my head space because I realised that I couldn't move from that position as freely as planned and pre-practiced as I hadn't accounted for the rope drag. I had to snatch for the next hold, some pebbles. There were about three seconds where I lost my calm a little bit and I had to collect myself. I think Neil had far more of a worry on it. [1] ### References [1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/nick_dixon_-_indian_face_the_first_repeat-5756](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/nick_dixon_-_indian_face_the_first_repeat-5756)
After
> There's one move where I got a left hand sidepull and my right hand was on some nobbles and I came out of my head space because I realised that I couldn't move from that position as freely as planned and pre-practiced as I hadn't accounted for the rope drag. I had to snatch for the next hold, some pebbles. There were about three seconds where I lost my calm a little bit and I had to collect myself. I think Neil had far more of a worry on it. [1] > It's like an HVS, only with smaller holds. [2] ### References [1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/nick_dixon_-_indian_face_the_first_repeat-5756](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/nick_dixon_-_indian_face_the_first_repeat-5756) [2] [Colin Wells](/climber/1889/colin-wells). Who's who in British Climbing: Bite-sized Biographies of Dead Climbers - and Some that are Still Alive. United Kingdom: Climbing Company, 2008.
Diff
--- before +++ after @@ -1,5 +1,10 @@ > There's one move where I got a left hand sidepull and my right hand was on some nobbles and I came out of my head space because I realised that I couldn't move from that position as freely as planned and pre-practiced as I hadn't accounted for the rope drag. I had to snatch for the next hold, some pebbles. There were about three seconds where I lost my calm a little bit and I had to collect myself. I think Neil had far more of a worry on it. [1] + + +> It's like an HVS, only with smaller holds. [2] ### References -[1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/nick_dixon_-_indian_face_the_first_repeat-5756](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/nick_dixon_-_indian_face_the_first_repeat-5756) +[1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/nick_dixon_-_indian_face_the_first_repeat-5756](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/nick_dixon_-_indian_face_the_first_repeat-5756) + +[2] [Colin Wells](/climber/1889/colin-wells). Who's who in British Climbing: Bite-sized Biographies of Dead Climbers - and Some that are Still Alive. United Kingdom: Climbing Company, 2008.
11 28th July 2024 07:44:59 remus ascent Neil Gresham notes_pretty
Before
<p>Just days after <a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon">Nick Dixon</a> made the second ascent.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://open.spotify.com/episode/5cac0uPMB1TYDaUF8XN06f?">https://open.spotify.com/episode/5cac0uPMB1TYDaUF8XN06f?</a></p>
After
<p>Just days after <a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon">Nick Dixon</a> made the second ascent.</p> <blockquote> <p>I was locked in this world and the only way I could release myself was by climbing this route.</p> <p>...</p> <p>The reason it was particularly fatalistic was <a href="/climber/457/airlie-anderson">Airlie [Anderson]</a> was coming over to North Wales to belay me, and it was obvious it was gearing up towards her belaying me on the route when I did it, which she did. She was with <a href="/climber/452/rachel-farmer">Rachel [Farmer]</a> when she died, and we never really discussed this and I don't know why it played out this way, but in the end I went for the lead and she was belaying me and I really sketched. I was not steady on it. I started really shaking on the crux part, and I can remember hearing her in tears belaying me, because if you fall off that top part that's almost certainly it. You're like 100ft up and you've got an RP2 that's miles below you and that's probably going to rip. And Airlie lost it, she was in tears, and I was fighting for my life climbing up this thing. [1]</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://open.spotify.com/episode/5cac0uPMB1TYDaUF8XN06f?">https://open.spotify.com/episode/5cac0uPMB1TYDaUF8XN06f?</a></p>
12 28th July 2024 07:44:59 remus ascent Neil Gresham notes
Before
Just days after [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon) made the second ascent. ### References [1] [https://open.spotify.com/episode/5cac0uPMB1TYDaUF8XN06f?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/5cac0uPMB1TYDaUF8XN06f?)
After
Just days after [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon) made the second ascent. > I was locked in this world and the only way I could release myself was by climbing this route. > ... > The reason it was particularly fatalistic was [Airlie [Anderson]](/climber/457/airlie-anderson) was coming over to North Wales to belay me, and it was obvious it was gearing up towards her belaying me on the route when I did it, which she did. She was with [Rachel [Farmer]](/climber/452/rachel-farmer) when she died, and we never really discussed this and I don't know why it played out this way, but in the end I went for the lead and she was belaying me and I really sketched. I was not steady on it. I started really shaking on the crux part, and I can remember hearing her in tears belaying me, because if you fall off that top part that's almost certainly it. You're like 100ft up and you've got an RP2 that's miles below you and that's probably going to rip. And Airlie lost it, she was in tears, and I was fighting for my life climbing up this thing. [1] ### References [1] [https://open.spotify.com/episode/5cac0uPMB1TYDaUF8XN06f?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/5cac0uPMB1TYDaUF8XN06f?)
Diff
--- before +++ after @@ -1,4 +1,10 @@ Just days after [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon) made the second ascent. + +> I was locked in this world and the only way I could release myself was by climbing this route. + +> ... + +> The reason it was particularly fatalistic was [Airlie [Anderson]](/climber/457/airlie-anderson) was coming over to North Wales to belay me, and it was obvious it was gearing up towards her belaying me on the route when I did it, which she did. She was with [Rachel [Farmer]](/climber/452/rachel-farmer) when she died, and we never really discussed this and I don't know why it played out this way, but in the end I went for the lead and she was belaying me and I really sketched. I was not steady on it. I started really shaking on the crux part, and I can remember hearing her in tears belaying me, because if you fall off that top part that's almost certainly it. You're like 100ft up and you've got an RP2 that's miles below you and that's probably going to rip. And Airlie lost it, she was in tears, and I was fighting for my life climbing up this thing. [1] ### References
13 27th July 2024 22:44:21 remus ascent Neil Gresham notes
Before
Just days after [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon) made the second ascent.
After
Just days after [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon) made the second ascent. ### References [1] [https://open.spotify.com/episode/5cac0uPMB1TYDaUF8XN06f?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/5cac0uPMB1TYDaUF8XN06f?)
Diff
--- before +++ after @@ -1 +1,5 @@ -Just days after [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon) made the second ascent. +Just days after [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon) made the second ascent. + +### References + +[1] [https://open.spotify.com/episode/5cac0uPMB1TYDaUF8XN06f?](https://open.spotify.com/episode/5cac0uPMB1TYDaUF8XN06f?)
14 27th July 2024 22:44:21 remus ascent Neil Gresham notes_pretty
Before
<p>Just days after <a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon">Nick Dixon</a> made the second ascent.</p>
After
<p>Just days after <a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon">Nick Dixon</a> made the second ascent.</p> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://open.spotify.com/episode/5cac0uPMB1TYDaUF8XN06f?">https://open.spotify.com/episode/5cac0uPMB1TYDaUF8XN06f?</a></p>
15 25th April 2024 12:58:23 remus ascent Johnny Dawes notes_pretty
Before
<blockquote> <p>I went for the crux, the motion startling me like a car unexpectedly in gear in a crowded parking lot. I swarm through the roundness of the bulge to a crank on a brittle spike for a cluster of three crystals on the right; each finger crucial and separate like the keys for a piano chord. I change feet three times to rest my lower legs, each time having to jump my foot out to put the other in. The finger-holds are too poor to hang on should the toes catch on each other. All those foot-changing mistakes on easy moves by runners come to mind. There is no resting. I must go and climb for the top. I swarm up towards the sunlight, gasping for air. A brittle hold stays under mistreatment and then I really blow it. Fearful of a smear on now-non-sticky boots I use an edge and move up, a fall fatal, but the automaton stabs back through, wobbling, but giving its all and I grasp a large sidepull and tube upward. The ropes dangle uselessly from my waist. <a href="/climber/1385/arthur-birtwistle">Arthur Birtwistle</a> on <a href="/climb/2043/diagonal">Diagonal</a>, I grasp incuts and the tight movement swerves to a glide as gravity swings skyward ...</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JMX4NAw0NSE">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JMX4NAw0NSE</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sNb5_PYRhQA">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sNb5_PYRhQA</a></p> <p>[3] Photos from the first ascent by <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/30814373@N02/albums/72157712866661618/">https://www.flickr.com/photos/30814373@N02/albums/72157712866661618/</a></p>
After
<blockquote> <p>I went for the crux, the motion startling me like a car unexpectedly in gear in a crowded parking lot. I swarm through the roundness of the bulge to a crank on a brittle spike for a cluster of three crystals on the right; each finger crucial and separate like the keys for a piano chord. I change feet three times to rest my lower legs, each time having to jump my foot out to put the other in. The finger-holds are too poor to hang on should the toes catch on each other. All those foot-changing mistakes on easy moves by runners come to mind. There is no resting. I must go and climb for the top. I swarm up towards the sunlight, gasping for air. A brittle hold stays under mistreatment and then I really blow it. Fearful of a smear on now-non-sticky boots I use an edge and move up, a fall fatal, but the automaton stabs back through, wobbling, but giving its all and I grasp a large sidepull and tube upward. The ropes dangle uselessly from my waist. <a href="/climber/1385/arthur-birtwistle">Arthur Birtwistle</a> on <a href="/climb/2043/diagonal">Diagonal</a>, I grasp incuts and the tight movement swerves to a glide as gravity swings skyward ...</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JMX4NAw0NSE">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JMX4NAw0NSE</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sNb5_PYRhQA">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sNb5_PYRhQA</a></p> <p>[3] Photos from the first ascent by <a href="/climber/2063/jonathan-reti">Jonathan Reti</a>. Jonathan was the only person at the crag that day with a camera. Later pictures of Johnny in white vest were not of the actual ascent. <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/30814373@N02/albums/72157712866661618/">https://www.flickr.com/photos/30814373@N02/albums/72157712866661618/</a></p> <blockquote> <p>That top crux was difficult for him and his method was pretty snatchy, which is why I moved out of the fall line in case he fluffed it. Shockingly bold.</p> </blockquote>
16 25th April 2024 12:58:23 remus ascent Johnny Dawes notes
Before
> I went for the crux, the motion startling me like a car unexpectedly in gear in a crowded parking lot. I swarm through the roundness of the bulge to a crank on a brittle spike for a cluster of three crystals on the right; each finger crucial and separate like the keys for a piano chord. I change feet three times to rest my lower legs, each time having to jump my foot out to put the other in. The finger-holds are too poor to hang on should the toes catch on each other. All those foot-changing mistakes on easy moves by runners come to mind. There is no resting. I must go and climb for the top. I swarm up towards the sunlight, gasping for air. A brittle hold stays under mistreatment and then I really blow it. Fearful of a smear on now-non-sticky boots I use an edge and move up, a fall fatal, but the automaton stabs back through, wobbling, but giving its all and I grasp a large sidepull and tube upward. The ropes dangle uselessly from my waist. [Arthur Birtwistle](/climber/1385/arthur-birtwistle) on [Diagonal](/climb/2043/diagonal), I grasp incuts and the tight movement swerves to a glide as gravity swings skyward ... ### References [1] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JMX4NAw0NSE](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JMX4NAw0NSE) [2] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sNb5_PYRhQA](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sNb5_PYRhQA) [3] Photos from the first ascent by [https://www.flickr.com/photos/30814373@N02/albums/72157712866661618/](https://www.flickr.com/photos/30814373@N02/albums/72157712866661618/)
After
> I went for the crux, the motion startling me like a car unexpectedly in gear in a crowded parking lot. I swarm through the roundness of the bulge to a crank on a brittle spike for a cluster of three crystals on the right; each finger crucial and separate like the keys for a piano chord. I change feet three times to rest my lower legs, each time having to jump my foot out to put the other in. The finger-holds are too poor to hang on should the toes catch on each other. All those foot-changing mistakes on easy moves by runners come to mind. There is no resting. I must go and climb for the top. I swarm up towards the sunlight, gasping for air. A brittle hold stays under mistreatment and then I really blow it. Fearful of a smear on now-non-sticky boots I use an edge and move up, a fall fatal, but the automaton stabs back through, wobbling, but giving its all and I grasp a large sidepull and tube upward. The ropes dangle uselessly from my waist. [Arthur Birtwistle](/climber/1385/arthur-birtwistle) on [Diagonal](/climb/2043/diagonal), I grasp incuts and the tight movement swerves to a glide as gravity swings skyward ... ### References [1] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JMX4NAw0NSE](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JMX4NAw0NSE) [2] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sNb5_PYRhQA](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sNb5_PYRhQA) [3] Photos from the first ascent by [Jonathan Reti](/climber/2063/jonathan-reti). Jonathan was the only person at the crag that day with a camera. Later pictures of Johnny in white vest were not of the actual ascent. [https://www.flickr.com/photos/30814373@N02/albums/72157712866661618/](https://www.flickr.com/photos/30814373@N02/albums/72157712866661618/) > That top crux was difficult for him and his method was pretty snatchy, which is why I moved out of the fall line in case he fluffed it. Shockingly bold.
Diff
--- before +++ after @@ -6,4 +6,6 @@ [2] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sNb5_PYRhQA](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sNb5_PYRhQA) -[3] Photos from the first ascent by [https://www.flickr.com/photos/30814373@N02/albums/72157712866661618/](https://www.flickr.com/photos/30814373@N02/albums/72157712866661618/) +[3] Photos from the first ascent by [Jonathan Reti](/climber/2063/jonathan-reti). Jonathan was the only person at the crag that day with a camera. Later pictures of Johnny in white vest were not of the actual ascent. [https://www.flickr.com/photos/30814373@N02/albums/72157712866661618/](https://www.flickr.com/photos/30814373@N02/albums/72157712866661618/) + +> That top crux was difficult for him and his method was pretty snatchy, which is why I moved out of the fall line in case he fluffed it. Shockingly bold.
17 25th April 2024 12:54:11 remus ascent Johnny Dawes notes
Before
> I went for the crux, the motion startling me like a car unexpectedly in gear in a crowded parking lot. I swarm through the roundness of the bulge to a crank on a brittle spike for a cluster of three crystals on the right; each finger crucial and separate like the keys for a piano chord. I change feet three times to rest my lower legs, each time having to jump my foot out to put the other in. The finger-holds are too poor to hang on should the toes catch on each other. All those foot-changing mistakes on easy moves by runners come to mind. There is no resting. I must go and climb for the top. I swarm up towards the sunlight, gasping for air. A brittle hold stays under mistreatment and then I really blow it. Fearful of a smear on now-non-sticky boots I use an edge and move up, a fall fatal, but the automaton stabs back through, wobbling, but giving its all and I grasp a large sidepull and tube upward. The ropes dangle uselessly from my waist. [Arthur Birtwistle](/climber/1385/arthur-birtwistle) on [Diagonal](/climb/2043/diagonal), I grasp incuts and the tight movement swerves to a glide as gravity swings skyward ... ### References [1] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JMX4NAw0NSE](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JMX4NAw0NSE) [2] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sNb5_PYRhQA](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sNb5_PYRhQA) [3] [https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149995619790657/149996096457276](https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149995619790657/149996096457276)
After
> I went for the crux, the motion startling me like a car unexpectedly in gear in a crowded parking lot. I swarm through the roundness of the bulge to a crank on a brittle spike for a cluster of three crystals on the right; each finger crucial and separate like the keys for a piano chord. I change feet three times to rest my lower legs, each time having to jump my foot out to put the other in. The finger-holds are too poor to hang on should the toes catch on each other. All those foot-changing mistakes on easy moves by runners come to mind. There is no resting. I must go and climb for the top. I swarm up towards the sunlight, gasping for air. A brittle hold stays under mistreatment and then I really blow it. Fearful of a smear on now-non-sticky boots I use an edge and move up, a fall fatal, but the automaton stabs back through, wobbling, but giving its all and I grasp a large sidepull and tube upward. The ropes dangle uselessly from my waist. [Arthur Birtwistle](/climber/1385/arthur-birtwistle) on [Diagonal](/climb/2043/diagonal), I grasp incuts and the tight movement swerves to a glide as gravity swings skyward ... ### References [1] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JMX4NAw0NSE](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JMX4NAw0NSE) [2] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sNb5_PYRhQA](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sNb5_PYRhQA) [3] Photos from the first ascent by [https://www.flickr.com/photos/30814373@N02/albums/72157712866661618/](https://www.flickr.com/photos/30814373@N02/albums/72157712866661618/)
Diff
--- before +++ after @@ -6,4 +6,4 @@ [2] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sNb5_PYRhQA](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sNb5_PYRhQA) -[3] [https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149995619790657/149996096457276](https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149995619790657/149996096457276) +[3] Photos from the first ascent by [https://www.flickr.com/photos/30814373@N02/albums/72157712866661618/](https://www.flickr.com/photos/30814373@N02/albums/72157712866661618/)
18 25th April 2024 12:54:11 remus ascent Johnny Dawes notes_pretty
Before
<blockquote> <p>I went for the crux, the motion startling me like a car unexpectedly in gear in a crowded parking lot. I swarm through the roundness of the bulge to a crank on a brittle spike for a cluster of three crystals on the right; each finger crucial and separate like the keys for a piano chord. I change feet three times to rest my lower legs, each time having to jump my foot out to put the other in. The finger-holds are too poor to hang on should the toes catch on each other. All those foot-changing mistakes on easy moves by runners come to mind. There is no resting. I must go and climb for the top. I swarm up towards the sunlight, gasping for air. A brittle hold stays under mistreatment and then I really blow it. Fearful of a smear on now-non-sticky boots I use an edge and move up, a fall fatal, but the automaton stabs back through, wobbling, but giving its all and I grasp a large sidepull and tube upward. The ropes dangle uselessly from my waist. <a href="/climber/1385/arthur-birtwistle">Arthur Birtwistle</a> on <a href="/climb/2043/diagonal">Diagonal</a>, I grasp incuts and the tight movement swerves to a glide as gravity swings skyward ...</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JMX4NAw0NSE">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JMX4NAw0NSE</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sNb5_PYRhQA">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sNb5_PYRhQA</a></p> <p>[3] <a href="https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149995619790657/149996096457276">https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149995619790657/149996096457276</a></p>
After
<blockquote> <p>I went for the crux, the motion startling me like a car unexpectedly in gear in a crowded parking lot. I swarm through the roundness of the bulge to a crank on a brittle spike for a cluster of three crystals on the right; each finger crucial and separate like the keys for a piano chord. I change feet three times to rest my lower legs, each time having to jump my foot out to put the other in. The finger-holds are too poor to hang on should the toes catch on each other. All those foot-changing mistakes on easy moves by runners come to mind. There is no resting. I must go and climb for the top. I swarm up towards the sunlight, gasping for air. A brittle hold stays under mistreatment and then I really blow it. Fearful of a smear on now-non-sticky boots I use an edge and move up, a fall fatal, but the automaton stabs back through, wobbling, but giving its all and I grasp a large sidepull and tube upward. The ropes dangle uselessly from my waist. <a href="/climber/1385/arthur-birtwistle">Arthur Birtwistle</a> on <a href="/climb/2043/diagonal">Diagonal</a>, I grasp incuts and the tight movement swerves to a glide as gravity swings skyward ...</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JMX4NAw0NSE">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JMX4NAw0NSE</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sNb5_PYRhQA">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sNb5_PYRhQA</a></p> <p>[3] Photos from the first ascent by <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/30814373@N02/albums/72157712866661618/">https://www.flickr.com/photos/30814373@N02/albums/72157712866661618/</a></p>
19 25th April 2024 12:48:52 remus - - notes_pretty
Before
<p>The first E9 in the UK. Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p> <blockquote> <p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p> <p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p> <p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] Williams, Paul. Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.</p>
After
<p>The first E9 in the UK. Memorably described in <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams">Paul Williams'</a> 1989 guidebook as follows:</p> <blockquote> <p>It has been said that up the face to the right of <a href="/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream">A Midsummer Night's Dream</a>, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...</p> <p>Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...</p> <p>The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="/climber/747/paul-williams">Paul Williams</a>. Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.</p>
20 25th April 2024 12:48:52 remus - - notes
Before
The first E9 in the UK. Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows: > It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre... > Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent... > The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1] ### References [1] Williams, Paul. Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.
After
The first E9 in the UK. Memorably described in [Paul Williams'](/climber/747/paul-williams) 1989 guidebook as follows: > It has been said that up the face to the right of [A Midsummer Night's Dream](/climb/1075/a-midsummer-night's-dream), a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre... > Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent... > The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1] ### References [1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.
Diff
--- before +++ after @@ -8,4 +8,4 @@ ### References -[1] Williams, Paul. Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989. +[1] [Paul Williams](/climber/747/paul-williams). Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.

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