Simon Lorenzi


Quick Info

Nationality: BE
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 9A
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9a
Social Media

References

[1] Interview with Steven Potter for climbing. com, 1st February 2022 https://www.climbing.com/news/simon-lorenzi-v16-font/

Quick Info

Nationality: BE
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 9A
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9a
Social Media

References

[1] Interview with Steven Potter for climbing. com, 1st February 2022 https://www.climbing.com/news/simon-lorenzi-v16-font/


Pics + Vids

Conviction (du bas) (8B+, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 07:02 on 03 February 2022
Dreamtime (8C)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 07:02 on 03 February 2022
Power of Now Direct (8C, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 13:07 on 13 July 2021
Power of Now Direct (8C, FA)
Added at 16:09 on 20 September 2021
La Force Tranquille (8C)
Added at 16:09 on 20 September 2021
Jungle Speed (9a)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 07:11 on 04 November 2021
Big Conviction (8C+, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 20:01 on 24 January 2022
Big Conviction (8C+, FA)
Added at 07:02 on 08 February 2022
La Révolutionnaire Assis (8C+)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 19:02 on 12 February 2022
La Révolutionnaire Assis (8C+)
Added at 07:03 on 30 March 2022
La Traction Universelle (8c)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 06:02 on 03 February 2022
Off the Wagon SDS (8C+)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 07:03 on 21 March 2022
Off the Wagon SDS (8C+)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 19:11 on 25 November 2021
Off the Wagon SDS (8C+)
Added at 22:03 on 20 March 2022
Soudain Seul (9A, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 12:02 on 10 February 2021
Soudain Seul (9A, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 12:02 on 10 February 2021

Ascents

14 recorded ascents.

Year Climb Grade FA Ascent Date
2019 Dreamtime 8C (Boulder) 11th January 2019

https://www.instagram.com/p/BsgT5gXh4Pc/

2020
2021 La Force Tranquille 8C (Boulder) 1st January 2021 (approx)

https://youtu.be/SZV2c8SBDBM?t=55

Soudain Seul 9A (Boulder) 8th February 2021

After ticking the stand start quickly the low start was a much more protracted affair, stretching out to 25 days of effort.

To make a crucial knee on the sit work better Simon borrowed a book from his girlfriend and placed it underneath his kneepad to make his shin a little longer. The name of the problem comes from the title of the book.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CLCxgJ2jDB1/

https://www.instagram.com/p/CLFXX58DbGN/

La Traction Universelle 8c (Lead) 6th July 2021

Second ascent, 26 years after his father Claude Lorenzi made the first ascent.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CCWdnP0jWKc/

Power of Now Direct 8C (Boulder) 13th July 2021 (approx)

https://www.instagram.com/p/CRPFTRZD-ck/

https://youtu.be/SZV2c8SBDBM?t=275

Jungle Speed 9a (Lead) 3rd November 2021

Second try after some attempts 4 years ago.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CV0veE5jd9r/

Off the Wagon SDS 8C+ (Boulder) 24th November 2021

It's important to notice that the crux hold was already not the same as before. A small christal has gone and the left side of the hold is now a bit deeper. [3]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CWtThn3tdZo/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_5X4ZR5MO6w

[3] https://www.instagram.com/p/CbVdSBvAF8b/

Conviction (du bas) 8B+ (Boulder) 23rd December 2021

https://www.instagram.com/p/CX1V4sltCpT/

2022 Big Conviction 8C+ (Boulder) 23rd January 2022

In total the ascent only took 5 sessions, though this is largely because Simon knew the upper part (i.e. The Big Island) extremely well from the many sessions he spent refining it while working Soudain Seul.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CZFLbkvon44/

https://fanatic-climbing.com/bleau-simon-lorenzi-ouvre-big-conviction-8c-font-simon-lorenzi-frees-big-conviction-8c-interview/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=260NRRSq4d8

La Révolutionnaire Assis 8C+ (Boulder) 12th February 2022

https://www.instagram.com/p/CZ40nbqtHfS/

https://fanatic-climbing.com/simon-lorenzi-repete-la-revolutionnaire-simon-lorenzi-repeats-la-revolutionnaire/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0VdgtiriKec

Everything the Light Touches 8C (Boulder) 17th April 2022 (approx)

https://www.instagram.com/p/CcdcRQtD_U5/

https://youtu.be/O6fKsmJXkqc?t=383

Alphane 9A (Boulder Did not finish) 1st August 2022 (approx)

Simon tried the problem after the world cup season and made good progress, managing to climb both the hard sections of the problem despite warm conditions.

In terms of difficulty, he compared it to his problem Soudain Seul:

If you compare to “Suddenly Alone”, in terms of escalation and rating?

It's quite a different style from Suddenly Alone. On the one hand, in "Alphane", the effort is shorter and therefore more condensed and on the other hand, it's much more "panel" climbing, I would say, with hands and feet in front offering less possibilities in terms of methods.

In terms of level, I'm pretty sure 'Alphane' isn't any harder than 'Suddenly Alone' given the progress and connections I've made in bouldering in this heat. The only way to be sure will be to try in good conditions, because it's impossible to know how different the bouldering will be with 15°C less. [1, via google translate]

References

[1] https://planetgrimpe.com/simon-lorenzi-est-alle-essayer-alphane-le-nouveau-9a-bloc-et-nous-en-parle/

Foundations Edge 8C (Boulder) 1st September 2022 (approx)

In a session.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CiDHV1ujjAT/

Practice of the Wild 8C (Boulder) 8th September 2022 (approx)

Simon was close to the flash on this problem.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CiQDkMjjEDB/

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Jungle Speed 9a (Lead) 3rd November 2021

Second try after some attempts 4 years ago.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CV0veE5jd9r/

La Traction Universelle 8c (Lead) 6th July 2021

Second ascent, 26 years after his father Claude Lorenzi made the first ascent.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CCWdnP0jWKc/

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Soudain Seul 9A (Boulder) 8th February 2021 9A

After ticking the stand start quickly the low start was a much more protracted affair, stretching out to 25 days of effort.

To make a crucial knee on the sit work better Simon borrowed a book from his girlfriend and placed it underneath his kneepad to make his shin a little longer. The name of the problem comes from the title of the book.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CLCxgJ2jDB1/

https://www.instagram.com/p/CLFXX58DbGN/

Alphane 9A (Boulder Did not finish) 1st August 2022 (approx)

Simon tried the problem after the world cup season and made good progress, managing to climb both the hard sections of the problem despite warm conditions.

In terms of difficulty, he compared it to his problem Soudain Seul:

If you compare to “Suddenly Alone”, in terms of escalation and rating?

It's quite a different style from Suddenly Alone. On the one hand, in "Alphane", the effort is shorter and therefore more condensed and on the other hand, it's much more "panel" climbing, I would say, with hands and feet in front offering less possibilities in terms of methods.

In terms of level, I'm pretty sure 'Alphane' isn't any harder than 'Suddenly Alone' given the progress and connections I've made in bouldering in this heat. The only way to be sure will be to try in good conditions, because it's impossible to know how different the bouldering will be with 15°C less. [1, via google translate]

References

[1] https://planetgrimpe.com/simon-lorenzi-est-alle-essayer-alphane-le-nouveau-9a-bloc-et-nous-en-parle/

Big Conviction 8C+ (Boulder) 23rd January 2022

In total the ascent only took 5 sessions, though this is largely because Simon knew the upper part (i.e. The Big Island) extremely well from the many sessions he spent refining it while working Soudain Seul.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CZFLbkvon44/

https://fanatic-climbing.com/bleau-simon-lorenzi-ouvre-big-conviction-8c-font-simon-lorenzi-frees-big-conviction-8c-interview/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=260NRRSq4d8

Off the Wagon SDS 8C+ (Boulder) 24th November 2021

It's important to notice that the crux hold was already not the same as before. A small christal has gone and the left side of the hold is now a bit deeper. [3]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CWtThn3tdZo/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_5X4ZR5MO6w

[3] https://www.instagram.com/p/CbVdSBvAF8b/

La Révolutionnaire Assis 8C+ (Boulder) 12th February 2022

https://www.instagram.com/p/CZ40nbqtHfS/

https://fanatic-climbing.com/simon-lorenzi-repete-la-revolutionnaire-simon-lorenzi-repeats-la-revolutionnaire/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0VdgtiriKec

Power of Now Direct 8C (Boulder) 13th July 2021 (approx)

https://www.instagram.com/p/CRPFTRZD-ck/

https://youtu.be/SZV2c8SBDBM?t=275

Dreamtime 8C (Boulder) 11th January 2019

https://www.instagram.com/p/BsgT5gXh4Pc/

La Force Tranquille 8C (Boulder) 1st January 2021 (approx)

https://youtu.be/SZV2c8SBDBM?t=55

Everything the Light Touches 8C (Boulder) 17th April 2022 (approx) 8C

https://www.instagram.com/p/CcdcRQtD_U5/

https://youtu.be/O6fKsmJXkqc?t=383

Foundations Edge 8C (Boulder) 1st September 2022 (approx)

In a session.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CiDHV1ujjAT/

Practice of the Wild 8C (Boulder) 8th September 2022 (approx)

Simon was close to the flash on this problem.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CiQDkMjjEDB/

Conviction (du bas) 8B+ (Boulder) 23rd December 2021

https://www.instagram.com/p/CX1V4sltCpT/

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade