Action Directe | 9a Sport route at Waldkopf

UKClimbing.com | 8a.nu
Bolted by Milan Sykora.

Action Directe is a sport route in the Waldkopf area of the Frankenjura in Germany. It was first climbed by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991 who suggested a grade UIAA grade of XI which equates to roughly 8c+/9a. It has since settled at 9a making it one of the first of the grade in the world.

The route is famous for it's brutal, uncompromising climbing on one- and two-finger pockets. While training for the first ascent Wolfgang famously made use of the first campus board in the world (the board was erected in the Campus Centre gym in Nürnberg hence the name).

After an easier initial section leading to a ledge and hands-off rest the route consists of around 20 hand moves, a pure power-endurance testpiece.

The route is named after the french terror group of the same name.

References

[1] Written in Stone, Nov 2023 https://open.spotify.com/episode/3XjUWgzU7IMJgEWPzequbq?

[2] Written in Stone interview with Ben Cossey, Nov 2023 https://open.spotify.com/episode/0jLxfy5CRlOTykTmtG7MZe?

[3] Written in Stone interview with Alex Megos, Nov 2023 https://open.spotify.com/episode/5nhDlvoMlXj4jvCROnwSh6?

Contributors
remus
48 contributions since 9th February 2021.

Pics + Vids

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Ascents

30 recorded ascents, including 3 unsuccessful ascents.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Wolfgang Güllich Lead | worked 14th Sep 1991
First ascent. 11 sessions.

With this ascent Wolfgang became one of the first people in the world to climb a sport route graded 9a, though at the time he suggested a grade of UIAA XI which translates to 8c+/9a. Famously, he trained specifically for the route by doing single finger campusing.
Ben Moon Lead | did not finish Apr 1992

Ben spent 3 days working the line and 2 days on redpoints. He reached a high point moving left towards the top of the route. He then got injured and was unable to try the line any more. [1]

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/ben-moon-british-rock-climbing-legend-interview.html
Alex Adler Lead | worked 9th Sep 1995
Second ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6tLrIiKHMtM

[2] https://climbingaway.fr/en/climbers/alexandre-adler
Iker Pou Lead | worked 7th Jun 2000
Third ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mNMtwNe92h0

[2] https://youtu.be/8v7z4dQcwP8?t=3159
Dave Graham Lead | worked 21st May 2001
Fourth ascent.

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/dave-graham-action-directe.html
Christian Bindhammer Lead | worked 14th May 2003

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2003/05/christian_bindhammer_repeats_action_directe_9a-8057
Richard Simpson Lead | worked 13th Oct 2005

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/B_5YoPZj3Jm/

[2] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/rich-simpson-makes-6th-ascent-of-action-directe.html

[3] https://www.thebmc.co.uk/action-man

Questions arose around whether Rich actually climbed the line and when asked he was unable to produce a belayer or any witnesses.
Dai Koyamada Lead | worked 15th Oct 2005

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y3EJctYJzpk

[2] https://youtu.be/X7w7nokBIMc?t=1172
Markus Bock Lead | worked Between 15th Oct 2005 and 23rd Oct 2005

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2005/10/more_action_directe_news-20785
Kilian Fischhuber Lead | worked 26th Sep 2006
Patxi Usobiaga Lead | worked 24th Oct 2008
Gabriele Moroni Lead | worked 17th Apr 2010
Jan Hojer Lead | worked 22nd May 2010

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qOSRfDktwrY
Piotr Savack Lead | worked 23rd May 2010
9 sessions.
Adam Pustelnik Lead | worked 10th Oct 2010

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/35681515
Felix Knaub Lead | worked Oct 2011

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/11/felix_knaub_climbs_action_directe-64874
Ben Cossey Lead | did not finish 2012

References

[1] https://open.spotify.com/episode/0jLxfy5CRlOTykTmtG7MZe?
Rustam Gelmanov Lead | worked 26th Mar 2012

References

[1] https://youtu.be/tvbrb0mf_ZE
Alex Megos Lead | worked 3rd May 2014
1 session.

In 2 hours!

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/alexander-megos-the-action-directe-frankenjura-interview.html

[2] https://open.spotify.com/episode/5nhDlvoMlXj4jvCROnwSh6?
Stefano Carnati Lead | worked 14th Jun 2016
David Firnenburg Lead | worked 29th Oct 2016
Stephan Vogt Lead | worked 4th Apr 2017
Mélissa Le Nevé Lead | worked 21st May 2020
First female ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CAc_u_RFesT/

[2] https://www.climbing.com/news/m%C3%A9lissa-le-nev%C3%A9-sends-action-directe-9a-5-14d/

[3] https://www.redbull.com/us-en/episodes/reel-rock-s7-e3
Buster Martin Lead | worked 4th Oct 2022

The first british ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CjikrxCjRQm/

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2022/10/action_directe_9a_by_buster_martin-73164

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lfL9_r5SIDA

[4] https://www.climbing.com/news/hubble-or-action-directe-the-first-9a-buster-martin/
Dylan Chuat Lead | worked 21st Apr 2023
Moritz Welt Lead | worked 13th Oct 2023

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CyWXpe9twLP/
Stefano Ghisolfi Lead | worked Nov 2023

References

[1] https://www.8a.nu/news/stefano-ghisolfi-sends-action-directe-9a

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XYrgp2UkqpY

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gq5jPH7c3Ec
Michał Korban Lead | worked 25th Sep 2024

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DAgSdnzNY9E/
Nico Pelorson Lead | worked Oct 2024

The first frenchman to climb the route.

References

[1] https://www.grimper.com/news-plus-30-ans-apres-ouverture-nico-pelorson-devient-premier-homme-francais-enchainer-action-directe-9a
Alex Huber Lead | did not finish

Alex was able to link the route from after the jump, but was convinced the jump was not possible for someone of his size. [1]

References

[1] https://open.spotify.com/episode/7hei30STtvpjEBFqkFPCYi?