Mathew Wright

Instagram.com | UKClimbing.com

Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8C
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9a
Hardest Trad (Worked): E11

Contributors: remus

Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8C
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9a
Hardest Trad (Worked): E11
Contributors: remus

Lists


Podcasts


Pics + Vids

Isla de Encanta (8B)
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Added at 21:11 on 21 November 2023
Isla de Encanta (8B)
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Added at 15:11 on 23 November 2023
Magical Thinking (E10, FA)
Added at 16:01 on 03 January 2024
Black Thistle (E10, FA)
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Added at 21:08 on 30 August 2023
Serendipity (8B+)
Added at 10:12 on 19 December 2020
Kaa'bah (8c+)
Added at 12:12 on 22 December 2020
Serenata (8C)
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Added at 12:02 on 10 February 2021
Belly of the Beast (8B)
Added at 19:02 on 07 February 2021
Keen Sympathiser (8B)
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Added at 16:08 on 22 August 2021
Evolution (8c+)
Added at 08:11 on 03 November 2021
Hubble (9a)
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Added at 14:10 on 27 October 2021
Fallingwater (8c)
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Added at 09:05 on 05 May 2021
Achemine (E9)
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Added at 12:04 on 11 April 2022
Crac Yr Meistri (E9)
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Added at 16:10 on 12 October 2022
Corinthian Groove (8b)
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Added at 07:04 on 14 April 2022
Lexicon (E11)
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Added at 10:05 on 20 May 2022
Lexicon (E11)
Added at 06:05 on 25 May 2022
Live Fast, Die Young (E7, FA)
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Added at 06:07 on 13 July 2022
Eternal Fall (E9, FA)
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Added at 19:09 on 17 September 2022

Ascents

27 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Year Climb Grade Style Ascent Date
2019 Serenity 8B Boulder | worked 9th Feb 2019
Make it Funky 8c Lead | worked 14th Apr 2019
Belly of the Beast 8B Boulder | worked 28th Apr 2019
Evolution 8c+ Lead | worked 21st Sep 2019
Mecca Extension 8c Lead | worked 22nd Sep 2019
Hajj 8c Lead | worked 29th Sep 2019
Serendipity 8B+ Boulder | worked 4th Dec 2019
2020 Kaa'bah 8c+ Lead | worked 25th May 2020
Hubble 9a Lead | worked 30th Sep 2020

Matt was the first person to successfully use a kneebar on the route, though he commented that he felt it didn't change the grade for him.

I used the knee pad because it’s obvious. When you do the move on it’s own your knee naturally pushes into the roof, so avoiding it is a little silly in my opinion. The knee bar is actually really bad for the right knee, it’s a knee scum as British people would call it! It didn’t take any weight off my arms, it just slows me down when I release the good left hand pinch to give me a little bit more time to stab my fingers into the blind two-finger pocket in the roof. This move is also very bunched for tall people. [2]

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CFxCUI8jHrs/

[2] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/mathew-wright-repeats-hubble-ben-moon-masterpiece-raven-tor.html

Serenade 8B+ Boulder | worked 10th Nov 2020
Serenata 8C Boulder | worked 19th Nov 2020
2021 Corinthian Groove 8b Lead | worked Mar 2021
Fallingwater 8c Lead | worked 2nd May 2021
Second ascent?

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/COarkxCjV6D/

Keen Sympathiser 8B Boulder | worked 22nd Aug 2021
Bat Route 8c Lead | worked 23rd Sep 2021
2022 Pedigree Chum 8c+ Boulder | worked 1st Feb 2022
Achemine E9 Lead | worked 10th Apr 2022
Lexicon E11 Lead | worked 19th May 2022
Live Fast, Die Young E7 Lead | worked 12th Jul 2022
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cf6pSNIDtxf/

Eternal Fall E9 Solo | worked 17th Sep 2022
First ascent.

Mat suggested a bouldering grade of around 7B+/7C but because of the extremely poor landing he thought a trad grade was more appropriate.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CinmawcjuNk/

Crac Yr Meistri E9 Lead | worked 11th Oct 2022
Third ascent?

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CjndwbdjC13/

2023 Impulse E8 Lead | worked 11th May 2023
Magical Thinking E10 Lead | worked Jul 2023
Black Thistle E10 Lead | worked 18th Aug 2023
Isla de Encanta 8B Boulder | worked 21st Nov 2023
Le Dernier Atrocity 8B Boulder | worked 14th Dec 2023
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Hubble 9a Lead | worked 30th Sep 2020 9a

Matt was the first person to successfully use a kneebar on the route, though he commented that he felt it didn't change the grade for him.

I used the knee pad because it’s obvious. When you do the move on it’s own your knee naturally pushes into the roof, so avoiding it is a little silly in my opinion. The knee bar is actually really bad for the right knee, it’s a knee scum as British people would call it! It didn’t take any weight off my arms, it just slows me down when I release the good left hand pinch to give me a little bit more time to stab my fingers into the blind two-finger pocket in the roof. This move is also very bunched for tall people. [2]

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CFxCUI8jHrs/

[2] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/mathew-wright-repeats-hubble-ben-moon-masterpiece-raven-tor.html

Evolution 8c+ Lead | worked 21st Sep 2019
Kaa'bah 8c+ Lead | worked 25th May 2020
Make it Funky 8c Lead | worked 14th Apr 2019
Mecca Extension 8c Lead | worked 22nd Sep 2019
Hajj 8c Lead | worked 29th Sep 2019
Fallingwater 8c Lead | worked 2nd May 2021
Second ascent?

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/COarkxCjV6D/

Bat Route 8c Lead | worked 23rd Sep 2021
Corinthian Groove 8b Lead | worked Mar 2021
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Serenata 8C Boulder | worked 19th Nov 2020
Serendipity 8B+ Boulder | worked 4th Dec 2019
Serenade 8B+ Boulder | worked 10th Nov 2020
Serenity 8B Boulder | worked 9th Feb 2019
Belly of the Beast 8B Boulder | worked 28th Apr 2019
Keen Sympathiser 8B Boulder | worked 22nd Aug 2021
Isla de Encanta 8B Boulder | worked 21st Nov 2023
Le Dernier Atrocity 8B Boulder | worked 14th Dec 2023
Keen Roof - Nachos Start 8B Boulder | worked
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Lexicon E11 Lead | worked 19th May 2022
Magical Thinking E10 Lead | worked Jul 2023
Black Thistle E10 Lead | worked 18th Aug 2023
Eternal Fall E9 Solo | worked 17th Sep 2022 E9
First ascent.

Mat suggested a bouldering grade of around 7B+/7C but because of the extremely poor landing he thought a trad grade was more appropriate.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CinmawcjuNk/

Achemine E9 Lead | worked 10th Apr 2022
Crac Yr Meistri E9 Lead | worked 11th Oct 2022
Third ascent?

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CjndwbdjC13/

Impulse E8 Lead | worked 11th May 2023
Live Fast, Die Young E7 Lead | worked 12th Jul 2022 E9
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cf6pSNIDtxf/

Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Pedigree Chum 8c+ Boulder | worked 1st Feb 2022