Mathew Wright

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References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XsrjAox4ywg

Matt was the first person to successfully use a kneebar on the route, though he commented that he felt it didn't change the grade for him.

I used the knee pad because it’s obvious. When you do the move on it’s own your knee naturally pushes into the roof, so avoiding it is a little silly in my opinion. The knee bar is actually really bad for the right knee, it’s a knee scum as British people would call it! It didn’t take any weight off my arms, it just slows me down when I release the good left hand pinch to give me a little bit more time to stab my fingers into the blind two-finger pocket in the roof. This move is also very bunched for tall people. [2]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CFxCUI8jHrs/

[2] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/mathew-wright-repeats-hubble-ben-moon-masterpiece-raven-tor.html

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lmb53HGAur0

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mj7YyV3xKGg

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/COarkxCjV6D/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CMID16pDc8f/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CHx-067DkW_/

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dtdcyriXkJg

I should mention that Bosi added the lip traverse of Gorilla Warfare (7A) onto the end, which I didn’t do; I felt that doing this adds little difficulty, and the boulder’s lip is almost always wet over the winter. I’m happy with my ascent. [2]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DFdUncDNc-6/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/reel/DF8ESdUN-Ji/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DFdUncDNc-6/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DH8EDLuNPp5/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/DIjG1jStCxw/

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EC6e7aiqwAo

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q5LBV8Xb2b8

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CS4j65zDQNG/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cz6owtdtyaG/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cz9SY8dtwUF/

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H6D-Fti6NAM

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CdxjfHBDBZF/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OCKoMRD6lWE

I accepted that I needed to give it my all, as every time I fell from really high up, I knew I was rolling the dice to some extent. I flicked a mental switch on the send day and that was it - I knew that I was going to climb it that go. I exhaled on every move and climbed as well on the route as I ever had - it really was the perfect send go. [4]

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg692659.html#msg692659

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xZOxSKE3WN8

[3] https://www.instagram.com/p/C6WfA7-NU-E/

[4] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2024/04/mat_wright_climbs_rhapsody_e11-73664

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2023/07/mat_wright_establishes_new_e10_7a_at_pavey_ark-73393

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qGa2djI__bA

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2023/08/black_thistle_e10_7a_-_first_ascent_by_mat_wright-73432

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cwk4sVHMDXb/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CcNRrcSjEfZ/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CjndwbdjC13/

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iT2Rac50nsA

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DITcGOEtMFH/

Mat suggested a bouldering grade of around 7B+/7C but because of the extremely poor landing he thought a trad grade was more appropriate.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CinmawcjuNk/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DAWJfbZtr3C/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h5RBsEJa6Qc

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C-GD38bN-Yw/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=smhbJ2Ubd7E

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cf6pSNIDtxf/

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_KNduM8iOsM

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DJbjRQ_t4Il/