Climbs

85m long, 200+ moves, 24 quickdraws and 1hr+ to climb it!

Formerly an aid route.

The first E9 in the UK. Memorably described in Paul Williams' 1989 guidebook as follows:

It has been said that up the face to the right of A Midsummer Night's Dream, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...

Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...

The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'. [1]

After the first ascent there was some controversy, with a flake parting company with the route and John Redhead painting a picture in the scar left behind. This was subsequently removed.

Johnny Dawes:

The real shame is that John [redhead] can't accept that other people are special too. John thinks he's special. Well a lot of other people are special too John. [2]

References

[1] Paul Williams. Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 1989.

[2] E9 6c

One of the first 8Bs in the world, though improvements to the sequence have led many to suggest 8A+ is more appropriate.

Around 8a+ to 8b difficulty wise, protected by pegs and small wires.

Originally given 9a, consensus is around 8c/+.