Climbs

Climb Name Type Grade # Ascents Recorded Notes Exclude Reason
Jungle Speed Sport route 9a 12

Generally considered to be 8c+/9a.

La Rose et le Vampire Sport route 8b 12
Levity Boulder problem 8B 12

Originally put up as 8B+, the consensus seems to have shifted to 8B

Lucid Dreaming Boulder problem 8C 12

Originally given 8C+ but later a downgrade to 8C was suggested by the FA Paul Robinson.

Daniel Woods offered this iconic description:

Start matched on a half-pad crescent shaped edge, paste your left foot on a glass smear as well as the right, pull on and do a left hand move to a quarter-pad, rounded, slick crimp. Bite down hard on this hold and move your right foot high and right onto a decent edge, then isolate the left arm and come right hand into the shark's tooth. This hold is so cool yet loco! How you grab this hold determines if you do the next move or not. For me, I place my ring finger on the left side of the spike and middle finger on the right side (the hold size is less than a quarter-pad and bites like no other). I then load my two fingers and wrap my thumb around the side of the tooth. When you get this, you make a fist with the wall and can feel the edge cut through a couple layers of skin, which is what holds you onto the wall. I then bring my left foot high on this knob right below the starting hold and explode to the left hand mini-pinch. This hold is slick, quarter-pad, and has an OK thumb catch, which makes it positive. It is hard to have the right accuracy to get this hold perfect. Now you are in the stand of Rastaman Vibration (V12). From here you switch your right foot onto the knob and place your left foot on a smear out left. You eye up the final half pad, rounded crimp and jump to it. Your feet go nearly horizontal while your fingers are squeezing these two holds. Once controlled, you do the remaining 30-foot slab to the top of the boulder.

Midnight Lightning Boulder problem 7B 12
Mirror Reality Boulder problem 8B+ 12
Mission Impossible Trad climb E9 12

Around 8a+ to 8b difficulty wise, protected by pegs and small wires.

Off the Wagon Low Boulder problem 8C+ 12
Pegasus Boulder problem 8C 12
Prinzip Hoffnung Trad climb E9 12
Radja Boulder problem 8B+ 12

Considered to be one of the first 8B+s in the world.

Right Wall Trad climb E5 12
Squoze Boulder problem 8B+ 12
The Arch Boulder problem 8B 12
The Cad Trad climb E6 12
The Grey Boulder problem 8B+ 12
The Kingdom Boulder problem 8B+ 12
The Mandala SDS Boulder problem 8B+ 12
The Nest Boulder problem 8C 12
The Walk of Life Trad climb E9 12

A route with a complicated history. An indirect line called Dyer Straits was originally climbed by Ian Vickers that used a lot of pegs (although the pegs were not placed by Vickers) [2]. James Pearson then removed the pegs and added a direct start suggesting the lofty grade of E12. The route was quickly repeated by Dave Macleod (who was injured at the time) who suggested a downgrade to E9.

The harsh criticism which was levelled at James from the climbing community for over grading the route led to him moving to Innsbruck to get away from the UK climbing scene.

James has subsequently discussed how, having grown up bouldering and leading short, bold routes on the gritstone, The Walk of Life was well outside his comfort zone and, lacking the skills to recognise his own weaknesses, then led him to suggest such a lofty grade. [1]

References

[1] https://open.spotify.com/episode/2HAuDaq2kSHM6L7vdDu6uu?

[2] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-interview-after-the-walk-of-life.html

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