Climbs

Le Bombé Bleu was a legendary project bolted by Marc Le Menestrel in 1991. In an era when chipping was prolific Marc wanted to keep the route unchipped, as a challenge for future generatons, and in return opened the project up for all to try. In 2026 Erwan Legrand, son of François Legrand, made the first ascent in a relatively quick 15 sessions.

The route consists of an easy intro section to a big ledge where you can rest completely. There is then a very hard boulder problem, originally tried as a morpho span from the right, but finally solved with a dyno from the left. This leads into a hard upper section of around 8c+/9a depending on whether you climb it with or without shoes!

Many big names dabbled on the route over the years, including Ben Moon, Fred Rouhling, Stefan Glowacz, Iker Pou, Chris Sharma, Nico Januel, Charles Albert, Nico Pelorson and Lucien Martinez. All made relatively modest progress, the hard dyno at the start of the route proving the major obstacle.

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/interview-erwan-legrand-on-first-ascent-of-le-bombe-bleu-at-buoux.html

[2] Interview with Marc Le Menestrel (2026) https://www.grimper.com/news-la-contre-interview-marc-menestrel-equipeur-bombe-bleu

Jonas Winter:

The sitstart was one of the most famous projects in font, tried by some of the worlds best boulderers until Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen made the first ascent starting on two slopers 1,90 Meters apart and proposed 8c.

A day later Manu Cornu repeated the line using another hold for the for right hand, because he does not have the span for Michael's beta and proposed an upgrade to 8c+

I definitely think Manus starting position is harder than the version of the first Ascent and mine, but font legend Nico Pelorson grabbed the third ascent using this beta and suggested an downgrade from 8c+ to 8b+ 🤯

My beta will only add to the confusion, as i dont do any move the same way as the others.

Using two slopers at my maximum span (191 cm) I come into a hard, really fun dyno to the final jug, which is further and harder than the dyno you do in the 7c+ jumpstart (I did not find a way to get in the position of the original last dyno using my beta for the sit).

Giving my opinion on the grade is hard, as I climbed a completly different sequence than the 3 ascensionist before me. [...]

So for me, it is just obvious that this Boulder, like many others, is a totally different challenge for different bodysizes and putting a number on it for everybody makes no sense and often is misleading, when judging an individual effort.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DGgYNWNNkgK/

A counter line to Impact Day. About 8b+ with a very spicy runout.

One of the most iconic and compelling highballs in the world. Initially graded 8C, but now considered a contender for the world's first 8C+ boulder.

A superb effort, free climbing the majority of the Longhope Route (A2), tackled ground-up by John Arran and Dave Turnbull], taking in some of the most adventurous climbing in the UK.

After much effort, Dave MacLeod free climbed the headwall crack to create Longhope Route Direct (E9).

Bolted by Kim Carrigan in 1982 this route was ahead of its time (Kanal im Rücken, typically considered the first 8b in the world, was only climbed in 1984). Carrigan came tantalizingly close to making the first ascent but it had to wait for Stefan Glowcaz to finish it off .

Carrigan:

Yeah, The Ring Route aka Serious Young Lizards really proved a bridge too far. The astounding thing was, that I'd bolted this route in 1982, long before anyone thought this would even be possible, which meant that I spent a long time learning the moves and developing the strength and fitness needed for a route like this. There was a complete lack of other routes of this difficulty from where this fitness could be gained. Despite being able to climb every move in my sleep, I could never quite bring it together. I still remember my best effort. I'd been shopping in Horsham for the weekly groceries and my fingers were already strained from carrying the shopping bags, but I thought I'll just pop up and give it a go. It had been drizzling, but because the wall was so steep, the route remained basically dry. First shot, I managed to redpoint straight to the last hold, but promptly slipped off mantling onto the wet slab above. That was it. [1]

The route later featured in a now-famous Patagonia advert when John Sherman shot a carefully staged photo of himself seemingly soloing the route in flip-flops, beer in hand.

The route was named after the ring bolts used to protect it.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/kim_carrigan_and_andy_pollitt-9629