Fred Rouhling was a controversial figure during the late 90s and early 2000s. With a string of hard ascents in a relatively off the beaten track location there were many people who doubted his ascents, not helped by the fact that many of his routes were unashamedly chipped (for example De L'Autre Côté du Ciel).
His route Akira was particularly contentious. When he made the first ascent he gave it the then unheard of grade of 9b at a time when 9a+ didn't exist.
A 2005 profile by Pete Ward [2] helped to dispel some of the more outlandish myths, and many of his routes have now received repeats which confirm their quality and difficulty. However, his route Akira did receive a notable downgrade to 9a after being repeated by Sébastien Bouin and Lucien Martinez.
[1] Interview with Relais Vertical Part 1 https://youtu.be/xqk0nQCNtpY
[2] Interview with Relais Vertical Part 2 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enFSnkF25eI
[3] The Other Side of Fred Rouhling by Pete Ward, 15th June 2012 https://www.climbing.com/people/fred-rouhling/
[4] Interview with camptocamp.org, October 2008 https://www.camptocamp.org/articles/143240/fr/interview-de-fred-rouhling-21-10-2008-
13 recorded ascents.
Year | Climb | Grade | Ascent Date |
---|---|---|---|
1993 | Hugh | 9a (Lead worked) | Dec 1993 |
First ascent. | |||
1994 | |||
1995 | Akira | 9a (Lead worked) | 6th Jun 1995 |
First ascent.
Fred suggested 9b (at a time when there were no established 9a+s). A bold move! An ascent (and grade) that caused a lot of controversy at the time. References |
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1996 | |||
1997 | De L'Autre Côté du Ciel | 9a (Lead worked) | 1997 |
First ascent. | |||
1998 | |||
1999 | |||
2000 | |||
2001 | Bain de Sang | 9a (Lead worked) | Nov 2001 |
Third ascent. https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2001/11/fred_rouhling_does_bain_de_sang_f9a-1824 |
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2002 | E La Nave Va | 8c+ (Boulder worked) | Nov 2002 |
2003 | La Proue | 8B (Boulder worked) | 4th Oct 2003 |
References[1] On The Edge Issue 129, page 12 |
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2004 | Red Snapper | 8A+ (Boulder worked) | Before 1st Jan 2004 |
References[1] On The Edge Issue 129, page 12 |
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Rah, Plats, Plats | 8A (Boulder worked) | Before 1st Jan 2004 | |
Mandallaz Drive | 9a (Lead worked) | 2004 | |
First ascent. | |||
Non à la Bombe | 8c+ (Lead worked) | Before 1st Jan 2004 | |
2005 | |||
2006 | Soumission | 8B+ (Boulder worked) | 2006 |
First ascent. | |||
2007 | Salamandre | 9a+ (Lead worked) | 2007 |
First ascent. | |||
2008 | Empreintes | 9a (Lead worked) | 2008 |
First ascent. |
Climb | Grade | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
---|---|---|---|
Salamandre | 9a+ (Lead worked) | 2007 | |
First ascent. | |||
Hugh | 9a (Lead worked) | Dec 1993 | |
First ascent. | |||
Akira | 9a (Lead worked) | 6th Jun 1995 | 9b |
First ascent.
Fred suggested 9b (at a time when there were no established 9a+s). A bold move! An ascent (and grade) that caused a lot of controversy at the time. References |
|||
De L'Autre Côté du Ciel | 9a (Lead worked) | 1997 | |
First ascent. | |||
Mandallaz Drive | 9a (Lead worked) | 2004 | |
First ascent. | |||
Empreintes | 9a (Lead worked) | 2008 | |
First ascent. | |||
Bain de Sang | 9a (Lead worked) | Nov 2001 | |
Third ascent. https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2001/11/fred_rouhling_does_bain_de_sang_f9a-1824 |
|||
Non à la Bombe | 8c+ (Lead worked) | Before 1st Jan 2004 |
Climb | Grade | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
---|---|---|---|
Soumission | 8B+ (Boulder worked) | 2006 | |
First ascent. | |||
La Proue | 8B (Boulder worked) | 4th Oct 2003 | |
References[1] On The Edge Issue 129, page 12 |
|||
Red Snapper | 8A+ (Boulder worked) | Before 1st Jan 2004 | |
References[1] On The Edge Issue 129, page 12 |
|||
Rah, Plats, Plats | 8A (Boulder worked) | Before 1st Jan 2004 |
Climb | Grade | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
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Climb | Grade | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
---|---|---|---|
E La Nave Va | 8c+ (Boulder worked) | Nov 2002 |