Climbers from United Kingdom

For most of the 90s and early 00s probably the strongest English climber based in the south west, responsible for many hard sport routes in the Torquay area and a pretty handy trad. climber and deep water soloist too.

Strong Yorkshire and Lakes activist in the 1970s and 1980s, now moved to Utah where he is a Mathematics professor and continues to climb.

Karen Magog is a strong British female sport and trad climber. She has onsighted or flashed over 100 E5s and over 20 E6s as well as headpointing up to E8 with her ascent of Bleed in Hell at Bowderstone Crags. On sport she has climbed up to 8b+ with her ascent of Mundo Feliz at Villanueva Del Rosario. [1]

References

[1] https://climbonline.co.uk/2020/05/02/climbing-is-my-passion-by-karin-magog/

[2] Interview with.Tanya Meredith (2026) https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/behind_the_scenes_karin_magog-16979

A key figure in the 1970s gritstone renaissance.

References

[1] UKC Profile of Andy Earl

[2] Andy competing at CWIF in 2008 https://www.instagram.com/p/CMXRnL7j1pW/

[3] Andy Earl on Top of the World by Steve Crowe, May 2020 https://climbonline.co.uk/2020/05/05/andy-earl-on-top-of-the-world/

References

[1] Interview with UKClimbing.com https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2022/07/josh_ibbertson_on_rainman_training_and_the_future-73109

Prolific gritstone developer, especially active in the 1980s. His boulder problems and micro-routes have become some of the most popular classics in the Peak District.

References

[1] First Climbs: Martin Veale https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=04diiBAdmL0

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/ticklists/martin_veale_fab_boulders-6400

British Peak District and south west England activist in the 1950s and 60s. Died climbing in the Avon Gorge.

John Cleare:

But rock was his medium. On it he was superb. He was tall and slim with powerful arms and steel fingers and he moved over it with the ease and grace of an elongated leopard—never have I seen him awkward or harassed on even the most uncompromising climb. Whatever move he made it was photogenic. Bubbling with enthusiasm and assurance one could want no better companion on the rope and he was the safest climber with whom I have shared it. His death is such an ironic tragedy. [1]

References

[1] Obituary in the Alpine Journal 1977 by John Cleare. Alpine Journal 1977 265-273 In Memoriam

Pex Hill resident and prolific North Wales activist in the 70s and 80s.

Phil sadly passed away from cancer on 15th February 2021.

Obituary by Mike Owen.

Urban legend (round Pex Hill at the time [early 1980s]) had it that after pulling through the crux of Right Wall, he called across to the photographer and asked him if he had enough shots, or did he need him to down climb it and do it the crux again! [1]

As somebody from Warrington he was an inspiration and legend. Never forgot the time I saw him turn up at Pex on his motorbike. Then reverse soloed Dateline in his leather jacket with his helmet hanging for in his arms. I could swear he was wearing trainers. [2]

Though our favourite stomping grounds often overlapped I only met Phil a handful of times. The first time, appropriately, was at Pex. The quarry was empty and I was committed about two thirds the way up Hart's Arete. Phil appears and I ask if the top is ok. "Aye" Phil mutters, and walks off. Of course, the top of Hart's is the only place at Pex where the top slopes. Next time we met he'd forgotten his earlier sandbagging of me and accused me of playing the same trick on him in the Peak (I don't know who had, but it wasn't me). He was the ultimate competitor, though one that I know had many deeply loyal friends. [Andy Popp, 3]

Phil used to claim to Joe [Healey] he didn’t train. Joe told me about calling round for him to go climbing one day. His mum answered, said he was training with weights in his bedroom, told Joe he was always training! [4]

References

[1] UKClimbing logbook

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rocktalk/phil_davidson_rip-731360?v=1#x9407295

[3] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rocktalk/phil_davidson_rip-731360?v=1#x9407396

[4] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,31125.msg629980.html#msg629980

[5] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,31125.msg629981.html#msg629981

Lancashire dark horse [1]

Pasquill made a number of first ascents in Lancashire and N Wales in the early 1970s that were amongst the hardest in the UK at that time.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_stone_children_-_cutting_edge_climbing_in_the_1970s-13297