Ken Palmer

More

• Change Log
• Library
• Threads

Nick White:

A definite contender for the hardest route hereabouts, and a testing expedition for even the most hardened "Slate-head". [1]

References

[1] Mountain Issue 137 (1991), page 17 /library/11318/mountain-137

Nick White:

Ken Palmer just happened to be out for the annual Sunday stroll with his girlfriend Wendy and his dog Tuppence, when who should he spy at the foot of Logan Rock but Nick Hancock belaying Andy Grieve on the most hideous offwidth in the world. Andy is a youth renowned for his stout construction and dogged determination, which he had used to good effect; not only had he got himself wedged half­ way up the disgusting orifice he'd also wrestled a huge car­ jack into position to protect the next exposed section, a grim example of the most advanced form of rockcraft... wriggling! However the effort had proved too much for the now spent Liskardian and the tasty (?) morsel fell to the pack snapping at his heels. Thus Ken swapped the dog lead for the sharp end and grunted, squirmed and ultimately extracted himself from Jack Yer Body (E5 5c). [1]

References

[1] Mountain Issue 137 (1991), page 17 /library/11318/mountain-137

References

[1] Mountain Issue 137 (1991), page 17 /library/11318/mountain-137

When Ken was pictured on the route for the 1995 South Devon and Dartmoor guidebook he used a dud sequence so as not to give away the crucial drop-knee beta. Naughty!

References

[1] Mountain Issue 137 (1991), page 17 /library/11318/mountain-137

References

[1] Mountain Issue 140 (1991), page 16 /library/11326/mountain-140

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 63, page 8 /library/11066/on-the-edge-63

References

[1] Climber September 1997, page 66

On The Edge reports:

He nearly [tested the skyhooks] when he split a finger on the tiny edges and had to fight his way to the top of the route with bleeding fingers. Photographer Nick Hancock knew something was wrong as the normally cool Ken wobbled and slapped his way uo, far above the skyhooks. Nick was in a better position to judge that a ground fall is a distinct possibility on the hard moves even if the skyhooks hold. [2]

References

[1] https://javu.co.uk/Climbing/Articles/SouthWestDevelopments/index.shtml

[2] On the Edge Issue 87, page 1 and 10

This must be one of the finest aretes in the country, and is as difficult and serious as Question Mark E9 7a. Sky hooks were placed on lead to protect the 6c sequence above but are probably too low to protect the hardest move, just below a break where a rock 5 can be placed. [2]

Dave Henderson:

Ken described Pre-Marital as being more of a psychologically hard route than Question Mark as the climbing is of a more precarious, delicate nature. Ken eventually led the route using four tied-down Skyhooks (placed on the lead, then down climbing to the ground to tie them down) just as it was starting to rain! (Ken decided he had to do it on that trip as he had a full support team with him - Doctor, photographer (Nick Hancock) and trustworthy belayer (Simon Blagdon). [1]

References

[1] https://javu.co.uk/Climbing/Articles/SouthWestDevelopments/index.shtml

[2] One The Edge Issue 91, page 10

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 88, page 16

The route was bolted using a 50ft ladder but is longer as it's very steep. I would have bolted it from the top but the old dear who owns the land threatened to set her dobermans on me for even setting foot in her drive! Nick Hancock, who took the photo, has no emigrated to Australia. The two things are not connected. [1]

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 97, page 15

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T_oKqkNcIlc

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 131, page 71

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZwcP8TRXWok