Ken Palmer

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First ascent.

First ascent.

When Ken was pictured on the route for the 1995 South Devon and Dartmoor guidebook he used a dud sequence so as not to give away the crucial drop-knee beta. Naughty!

First ascent.

First ascent.

Second ascent.

References

[1] Climber September 1997, page 66

Second ascent.

On The Edge reports:

He nearly [tested the skyhooks] when he split a finger on the tiny edges and had to fight his way to the top of the route with bleeding fingers. Photographer Nick Hancock knew something was wrong as the normally cool Ken wobbled and slapped his way uo, far above the skyhooks. Nick was in a better position to judge that a ground fall is a distinct possibility on the hard moves even if the skyhooks hold. [2]

References

[1] https://javu.co.uk/Climbing/Articles/SouthWestDevelopments/index.shtml

[2] On the Edge Issue 87, page 1 and 10

Second ascent.

This must be one of the finest aretes in the country, and is as difficult and serious as Question Mark E9 7a. Sky hooks were placed on lead to protect the 6c sequence above but are probably too low to protect the hardest move, just below a break where a rock 5 can be placed. [2]

Dave Henderson:

Ken described Pre-Marital as being more of a psychologically hard route than Question Mark as the climbing is of a more precarious, delicate nature. Ken eventually led the route using four tied-down Skyhooks (placed on the lead, then down climbing to the ground to tie them down) just as it was starting to rain! (Ken decided he had to do it on that trip as he had a full support team with him - Doctor, photographer (Nick Hancock) and trustworthy belayer (Simon Blagdon). [1]

References

[1] https://javu.co.uk/Climbing/Articles/SouthWestDevelopments/index.shtml

[2] One The Edge Issue 91, page 10

First ascent.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 88, page 16

First ascent.

The route was bolted using a 50ft ladder but is longer as it's very steep. I would have bolted it from the top but the old dear who owns the land threatened to set her dobermans on me for even setting foot in her drive! Nick Hancock, who took the photo, has no emigrated to Australia. The two things are not connected. [1]

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 97, page 15

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First ascent.

First ascent.

First ascent.

First ascent.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T_oKqkNcIlc

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 131, page 71

First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZwcP8TRXWok

First ascent.