Ryuichi Murai

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Fifth ascent. 2 sessions.

References

[1] https://youtu.be/2xy1fgDmrUI

References

[1] https://youtu.be/JHcDBOGKJ84

Fourth ascent?

Second ascent.

References

[1] https://youtu.be/ZeBSmBAzXnk

3 sessions.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/10/asagimadara_8c_by_ryuichi_murai-70742

Second ascent. 8 sessions.

Second ascent.

First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/B4j8k4FjxJE/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/B4r0E4jDILK/

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3sGxQIg7TOw

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/B5cKVOcjUGC/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/B5etzZBjZim/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/B5wxn8aDcjL/

Second ascent.

Third ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CNaNBxejR3N/

First ascent.

A 5 year project!

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CVaVwCCJpy5/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3cWfUmapmb0

First ascent.

Last day best day! Just before the gate closed, realized my dream “Launch Pad project” In the process of completion, struggled with many physical and mental factors.. severe finger skin damage from sharp granite, 0℃ cold condition, two low-probability savage cruxes but the sense of fulfillment gained after overcoming them is immeasurable. It was best day to find growth in my climbing life💯

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CXU6H2KpR6k/

[2] https://youtu.be/zIOCIRd8Mxk

Second ascent.

Stoked to make the 2nd ascent Shinichiro Nomura bloc. I tried this line four years ago when it was an old project and couldn't find a vision for it at the time. Since then I've been working on other projects and never came back, but exactly a year ago Nomsin finally finished this one as "Loca". There are two cruxes on this line. One is a savage jump to one finger pocket. And the other is a technical move that makes full use of the foot jam in the middle. In particular, the former is overhanging and the strength of the move is high, and high precision is required because I have to aim at the one-finger pocket of the blind. After adjusting the grip and jump output many times, I was finally able to hit the pocket with a perfect trajectory just before the time limit. The foot jam part after that was steady, but somehow I managed to send it. [1]

References

[1] https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/japan/shiobara/sectors/unknown-sector/routes/loca/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cj8IbQeyLop/

This line is an old project completed by Nomsin in March of this year and consists of only 4 moves. Moreover, the actual difficulty is concentrated in the second move (aiming for the next hold while fully locking the body in an unstable state). This day was the third day of trying, and the temperature was cooler than when I tried for two days last year, so the conditions were perfect. Thanks to that, I was able to grab the pinch hold in a hard direction in a stable state, and I continued to make a lot of close tries. After several adjustments to the trajectory of the move, I finally succeeded in the second move and was able to send it. As for the grade, it's difficult to evaluate because it's very short, but I feel it's easier than the V16s I've climbed so far. The low start project joins Gakido after four crimpy moves like V13. The most difficult part was reaching the start position of Gakido, and unfortunately I couldn't do it on this day. Connecting from below will increase the difficulty of Gakido greatly. [2]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CkgMghwp5Bw/

[2] https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/japan/chigobutai/sectors/unknown-sector/routes/gakido/

8 sessions.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CoVHrY_vgBq/

[2] https://youtu.be/zbzTGtZ-zd8

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cobu55IyURS/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CuAOtFgNP91/

Mega psyched! This line, which is over 8m high, was called the Real Big Project at the time. It was very intimidating to imagine the climbers who tried this in the past fell from the same height as a balcony on the third floor. The first half consisted of compression moves with friction slopers, and the second half was a mental battle(V11-ish) that required delicate footwork. It was only possible to try in perfect conditions in the early morning (~9:00), evening (17:00~), or a cloudy day. However, the approach takes 45 minutes, so early in the morning there weren't enough time to warm up. In the evening there's only a short time after the rock cool down untill the sunset, so a cloudy day is the best. Due to friction issues, the damage to the finger skin was quite severe. If I tried, I had to rest for 2-3 days. So this cloudy day near the end of the tour was my last chance. The conditions were great on this day and every move worked perfectly on the second try. I just focused on each hold in front of me, and didn't feel any fear of heights. It would have been really bad if I missed the last move. I'm glad I climbed, but more than that I'm glad I didn't fall. [3]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CvHzDqhNdtR/?img_index=4

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KOVVCJ01qto

[3] https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/south-africa/champagne-sector/sectors/unknown-sector/routes/livin-large/

First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C0q4uR_SJ-7/?img_index=1

Ryuichi made rapid progress on the problem, linking it from one move in on his third session and dropping the last hard move on his fourth session, but was unable to complete it on this trip.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XXW0pTnkQjc