Loca | 8C Boulder problem

First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CVPqjuwJC27/

Stoked to make the 2nd ascent Shinichiro Nomura bloc. I tried this line four years ago when it was an old project and couldn't find a vision for it at the time. Since then I've been working on other projects and never came back, but exactly a year ago Nomsin finally finished this one as "Loca". There are two cruxes on this line. One is a savage jump to one finger pocket. And the other is a technical move that makes full use of the foot jam in the middle. In particular, the former is overhanging and the strength of the move is high, and high precision is required because I have to aim at the one-finger pocket of the blind. After adjusting the grip and jump output many times, I was finally able to hit the pocket with a perfect trajectory just before the time limit. The foot jam part after that was steady, but somehow I managed to send it. [1]

References

[1] https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/japan/shiobara/sectors/unknown-sector/routes/loca/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cj8IbQeyLop/