Gakidō | 8B+ Boulder problem

First ascent. 3 sessions.

Initially Shinichiro suggested a grade of 8C+, but after discussing with several repeaters he agreed with their opinion that 8B+ was more appropriate. [3]

Finally i sent the old project, known as one of the biggest japanese routes. In addition to bad holdings, i struggle with the worst positioning that i’ve never felt, compared with some over V15 projects. However i managed to send by my sense that i found. Although Japanese routes require a lot of moves and are hard to connect as a whole, this route is short and severe. but the shape of boulder is awesome so i’m really happy that i sent it.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CbXGkkQJx1A/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rN5Z3V4QYtA

[3] https://www.instagram.com/p/C1I813Syj83/?img_index=1

This line is an old project completed by Nomsin in March of this year and consists of only 4 moves. Moreover, the actual difficulty is concentrated in the second move (aiming for the next hold while fully locking the body in an unstable state). This day was the third day of trying, and the temperature was cooler than when I tried for two days last year, so the conditions were perfect. Thanks to that, I was able to grab the pinch hold in a hard direction in a stable state, and I continued to make a lot of close tries. After several adjustments to the trajectory of the move, I finally succeeded in the second move and was able to send it. As for the grade, it's difficult to evaluate because it's very short, but I feel it's easier than the V16s I've climbed so far. The low start project joins Gakido after four crimpy moves like V13. The most difficult part was reaching the start position of Gakido, and unfortunately I couldn't do it on this day. Connecting from below will increase the difficulty of Gakido greatly. [2]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CkgMghwp5Bw/

[2] https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/japan/chigobutai/sectors/unknown-sector/routes/gakido/

As for the grade, I haven’t had the chance to try many boulders above V15 so it is hard to say, but after speaking to Shinichiro Nomura we agreed that V14 sounded right for the problem.

Also, after I send GAKIDO, I was able to complete the SD project of Gakido as well. [1]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C1GGUEsPL3U/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ACZJnHp1Vs

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C1ExBBzS5tu/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HzYV-n-Rs8w

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ACZJnHp1Vs