From: | United Kingdom 🇬🇧 |
Hardest Boulder (Worked): | 8C |
Hardest Sport (Worked): | 9a+ |
Hardest Trad (Worked): | E10 |
Hardest Trad (Onsight): | HS |
John Gaskins is a controversial figure in British climbing. As well as an early repeat of Hubble he has claimed many ascents of hard routes and boulder problems. However for some of his hardest ascents it is unclear whether they happened. In particular he has been unable to describe the holds or sequences on his problem Shadowplay, and shortly after claiming the first ascent was unable to pull on to the problem to get photographs for his sponsors.
Similar inconsistencies exist on several other routes and problems he has claimed including Violent New Breed (9a+), Tranquilitas (8C) which John originally claimed as Karma of the Trees at 8A and Little Women Right Hand.
Despite the above John was a capable climber and almost certainly climbed several hard problems, such as Anaesthesia (8A+) at Woodwell.
[1] Interview with Simon Lee from UKBouldering.com https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RbZALxPdjZg
[2] From the same interview as [1], footage of John climbing on his board https://vimeo.com/82936059.
[3] A Profile of John Gaskins by Simon Panton, On The Edge 120 page 48.
Several of John's hardest claimed ascents have been disputed, though there are some examples of him climbing hard-ish (for example Anaesthesia is on video).
Dan Varian has tried many of John's harder problems and attempted to clarify where the lines go several times with minimal success. He goes in to detail in [1].
41 recorded ascents.
Climb | Grade | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
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Violent New Breed | 9a+ | Lead | worked | 21st Jun 2004 | |
First ascent. Over 60 sessions.
References[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2004/06/john_gaskins_new_9a+_-_the_hardest_in_the_world-11117 [2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/ukc/gaskins_climbs_long-standing_project_to_give_a_new_9a+-90333 [3] News item in On The Edge Issue 140 August/September 2004
There is a picture of John on this, however Dan Varian has spoken to the photographer, Ray Wood, who said that John was unable to repeat any of the hard moves. |
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Brandenburg Gate | 9a+ | Lead | did not finish | 2003 | |
In interviews John has stated he got relatively close to climbing this line [2].
Paul Reeve also witnessed an attempt where John nearly made it in to Make it Funky. [1] References[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg647558.html#msg647558 [2] Interview with Simon Lee https://youtu.be/RbZALxPdjZg?t=1950 [3] On The Edge 120, page 49. |
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Hubble | 9a | Lead | worked | Sep 1994 | |
Third ascent. 12 sessions.
References[1] On The Edge 120, page 51. |
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Hugh | 9a | Lead | did not finish | ||
Head Like a Hole | 8b+ | Lead | worked | 7th Aug 2004 | |
First ascent.
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Magnetic Fields | 8b | Lead | worked | 1992 | |
References[1] On The Edge 120, page 49. |
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Militia | 8a+ | Lead | worked | 1993 | |
Second ascent.
References[1] On The Edge 120, page 49. |
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Comedy | 7c | Lead | worked | 1990 | |
References[1] On The Edge 120, page 49. |
Climb | Grade | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
Walk Away SDS | 8C | Boulder | worked | Sep 2002 | |
First ascent.
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Il Pirata | 8C | Boulder | worked | Feb 2004 | |
First ascent.
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Shadowplay | 8C | Boulder | worked | Oct 2004 | |
First ascent.
When asked directly about it, John has been unable to describe the holds on the problem or the sequence he used on it despite supposedly spending tens of sessions over multiple years on it. Other capable climbers, notably Dan Varian, have been unable to find any meaningful holds. References[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,30355.msg594312.html#msg594312 |
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Gossip | 8C | Boulder | worked | 2004 | |
At the time of the ascent Markus Bock publically disputed it. There was a lot of back and forth with no resolution.
References[1] https://web.archive.org/web/20230909111707/https://www.8a.nu/articles/gossip-gossip [2] Discussion on UKClimbing.com, July 2004 https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/gaskins_controversy_on_8anu-93741 |
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Kaizen | 8B+ | Boulder | worked | 2001 | |
First ascent.
References[1] On The Edge issue 120, page 49 [2] On The Edge, Issue 113 [3] https://www.lakesbloc.com/2023/06/29/20-years-of-lakesbloc-com/ |
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At the Heart of It All | 8B+ | Boulder | worked | Oct 2003 | |
First ascent.
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Asphyxia | 8B+ | Boulder | worked | ||
First ascent.
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Traci Lords SDS | 8B+ | Boulder | worked | ||
First ascent.
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Little Women | 8B+ | Boulder | worked | 8A+ | |
First ascent.
John originally claimed at 8A+. References[1] On The Edge Issue 140 August/September 2004, Page 68 |
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Monk Life | 8B+ | Boulder | worked | 2005 | |
References |
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Isla de Encanta | 8B | Boulder | worked | 1999 | |
First ascent.
References[1] On The Edge 120, page 49. |
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Walk Away | 8B | Boulder | worked | 2001 | 8A+/8B |
First ascent.
References[1] On The Edge 120, page 49. |
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Endless Nameless | 8B | Boulder | worked | Oct 2005 | |
First ascent.
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Gaskins' Problem | 8B (approx) | Boulder | worked | 5th Oct 2005 | 8A+/8B |
First ascent. 1 session.
References[1] http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=141 |
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Shallow Groove | 8B | Boulder | worked | 8A | |
First ascent.
It seems unlikely that John made the first ascent of this problem.
References[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg609908.html#msg609908 |
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Impossible Slab | 8B | Boulder | worked | ||
First ascent.
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Le Miroir Des Vanités | 8B | Boulder | worked | 1998 | |
3 sessions.
References[1] On The Edge Issue 84, page 21 |
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Cloning Technology | 8A+ | Boulder | worked | 1997 | 8A+/8B |
First ascent.
References[1] On The Edge 120, page 49 [2] On The Edge Issue 73, page 9 |
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Anaesthesia | 8A+ | Boulder | worked | 2000 | 8B/8B+ |
First ascent.
Climbed with feet on the back and given 8B. New beta using heels on the lip has taken the grade to 8A+. References[1] https://youtu.be/RbZALxPdjZg?t=856 [2] On The Edge Issue 120, page 49 [3] On The Edge Issue 105, page 14 |
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Work Hard | 8A+ | Boulder | worked | 1998 | |
Second ascent.
References[1] On The Edge 120, page 49. |
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8 Ball | 8A+ | Boulder | worked | 2001 | |
Second ascent.
References[1] On The Edge 120, page 49. |
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Atomic Garden | 8A | Boulder | worked | 8A | |
First ascent.
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Information Highway Revisited | 7C+ | Boulder | worked | 2006 | |
First ascent.
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Super Trouper | 7C | Boulder | worked | 1995 | |
First ascent.
References[1] On The Edge Issue 91, page 90 |
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Shallow Grave | 7A+ | Boulder | worked | 1997 | |
First ascent.
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Climb | Grade | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
A Moment of Clarity | E10 | Boulder | worked | Feb 2006 | |
First ascent.
One of the last hard lines John climbed. |
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Widdop Wall | E9 | Top Rope | worked | 1993 | |
References[1] On The Edge 120, page 49. |
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Reservoir Dogs | E8 | Top Rope | worked | 1991 | |
Top roped cleanly before Robin Barker made the first ascent. References[1] On The Edge 120, page 49. |
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Gigantic | E8 | Lead | worked | 1991 | |
Second ascent.
References[1] On The Edge 120, page 49. |
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Toltec Twostep | E6 | Lead | worked | 1991 | |
First ascent.
References[1] On The Edge 120, page 49. |
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Toltec Twostep Direct | E6 | Solo | 1991 | |
First ascent.
References[1] On The Edge Issue 91, page 90 |
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The Wasdale Crack | HS | Lead | onsight | Jun 1986 | |
On the centenary of the first ascent. References[1] On The Edge 120, page 50. |
Climb | Grade | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
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Pump up the Stamina | 8c+ | Boulder | worked | ||
First ascent.
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