Nationality: | GB |
Hardest Boulder (Worked): | 8C |
Hardest Sport (Worked): | 9a+ |
Hardest Trad (Worked): | E10 |
John Gaskins is a controversial figure in British climbing. As well as an early repeat of Hubble he has claimed many ascents of hard routes and boulder problems. However for some of his hardest ascents it is unclear whether they happened. In particular he has been unable to describe the holds or sequences on his problem Shadowplay, and shortly after claiming the first ascent was unable to pull on to the problem to get photographs for his sponsors.
Similar inconsistencies exist on several other routes and problems he has claimed including Violent New Breed (9a+), Tranquilitas (8C) which John originally claimed as Karma of the Trees at 8A and Little Women Right Hand.
Despite the above John was a capable climber and almost certainly climbed several hard problems, such as Anaesthesia (8A+) at Woodwell.
[1] Interview with Simon Lee from UKBouldering.com https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RbZALxPdjZg
[2] From the same interview as [1], footage of John climbing on his board https://vimeo.com/82936059.
Several of John's hardest claimed ascents have been disputed, though there are some examples of him climbing hard-ish (for example Anaesthesia is on video).
Dan Varian has tried many of John's harder problems and attempted to clarify where the lines go several times with minimal success. He goes in to detail here https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=30355.0
25 recorded ascents.
Year | Climb | Grade | FA | Ascent Date |
---|---|---|---|---|
1994 | Hubble | 9a (Lead worked) | 1994 | |
1995 | ||||
1996 | ||||
1997 | ||||
1998 | Isla de Encanta | 8B (Boulder worked) | ✓ | 1998 |
1999 | ||||
2000 | ||||
2001 | Walk Away | 8B (Boulder worked) | ✓ | 2001 |
2002 | Walk Away SDS | 8C (Boulder worked) | ✓ | Sep 2002 |
2003 | Brandenburg Gate | 9a+ (Lead did not finish) | 2003 | |
In interviews John has stated he got relatively close to climbing this line [2].
Paul Reeve also witnessed an attempt where John nearly made it in to Make it Funky. [1] [1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg647558.html#msg647558 [2] Interview with Simon Lee https://youtu.be/RbZALxPdjZg?t=1950 |
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At the Heart of It All | 8B+ (Boulder worked) | ✓ | Oct 2003 | |
2004 | Gossip | 8C (Boulder worked) | 2004 | |
At the time of the ascent Markus Bock publically disputed it. There was a lot of back and forth with no resolution. |
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Il Pirata | 8C (Boulder worked) | ✓ | Feb 2004 | |
Violent New Breed | 9a+ (Lead worked) | ✓ | 21st Jun 2004 | |
References[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2004/06/john_gaskins_new_9a+_-_the_hardest_in_the_world-11117 [2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/ukc/gaskins_climbs_long-standing_project_to_give_a_new_9a+-90333 [3] News item in On The Edge Issue 140 August/September 2004
ExcludedThere is a picture of John on this, however Dan Varian has spoken to the photographer, Ray Wood, who said that John was unable to repeat any of the hard moves. |
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Head Like a Hole | 8b+ (Lead worked) | ✓ | 7th Aug 2004 | |
Shadowplay | 8C (Boulder worked) | ✓ | Oct 2004 | |
ExcludedWhen asked directly about it, John has been unable to describe the holds on the problem or the sequence he used on it despite supposedly spending tens of sessions over multiple years on it. Other capable climbers, notably Dan Varian, have been unable to find any meaningful holds. References[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,30355.msg594312.html#msg594312 |
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2005 | Endless Nameless | 8B (Boulder worked) | ✓ | Oct 2005 |
Gaskins' Problem | 8B (Boulder worked) | ✓ | 5th Oct 2005 | |
2006 | Information Highway Revisited | 7C+ (Boulder worked) | ✓ | 2006 |
A Moment of Clarity | E10 (Boulder worked) | ✓ | Feb 2006 | |
One of the last hard lines John climbed. |
Climb | Grade | FA | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
Violent New Breed | 9a+ (Lead worked) | ✓ | 21st Jun 2004 | |
References[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2004/06/john_gaskins_new_9a+_-_the_hardest_in_the_world-11117 [2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/ukc/gaskins_climbs_long-standing_project_to_give_a_new_9a+-90333 [3] News item in On The Edge Issue 140 August/September 2004
ExcludedThere is a picture of John on this, however Dan Varian has spoken to the photographer, Ray Wood, who said that John was unable to repeat any of the hard moves. |
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Brandenburg Gate | 9a+ (Lead did not finish) | 2003 | ||
In interviews John has stated he got relatively close to climbing this line [2].
Paul Reeve also witnessed an attempt where John nearly made it in to Make it Funky. [1] [1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg647558.html#msg647558 [2] Interview with Simon Lee https://youtu.be/RbZALxPdjZg?t=1950 |
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Hubble | 9a (Lead worked) | 1994 | ||
Hugh | 9a (Lead did not finish) | |||
Head Like a Hole | 8b+ (Lead worked) | ✓ | 7th Aug 2004 |
Climb | Grade | FA | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
Walk Away SDS | 8C (Boulder worked) | ✓ | Sep 2002 | |
Il Pirata | 8C (Boulder worked) | ✓ | Feb 2004 | |
Shadowplay | 8C (Boulder worked) | ✓ | Oct 2004 | |
ExcludedWhen asked directly about it, John has been unable to describe the holds on the problem or the sequence he used on it despite supposedly spending tens of sessions over multiple years on it. Other capable climbers, notably Dan Varian, have been unable to find any meaningful holds. References[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,30355.msg594312.html#msg594312 |
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Gossip | 8C (Boulder worked) | 2004 | ||
At the time of the ascent Markus Bock publically disputed it. There was a lot of back and forth with no resolution. |
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At the Heart of It All | 8B+ (Boulder worked) | ✓ | Oct 2003 | |
Asphyxia | 8B+ (Boulder worked) | ✓ | ||
Traci Lords SDS | 8B+ (Boulder worked) | ✓ | ||
Kaizen | 8B+ (Boulder worked) | ✓ | ||
Little Women | 8B+ (Boulder worked) | ✓ | 8A+ | |
ExcludedJohn originally claimed at 8A+. References[1] On The Edge Issue 140 August/September 2004, Page 68 |
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Isla de Encanta | 8B (Boulder worked) | ✓ | 1998 | |
Walk Away | 8B (Boulder worked) | ✓ | 2001 | |
Endless Nameless | 8B (Boulder worked) | ✓ | Oct 2005 | |
Gaskins' Problem | 8B (Boulder worked) | ✓ | 5th Oct 2005 | |
Shallow Groove | 8B (Boulder worked) | ✓ | ||
Excluded
[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg609908.html#msg609908 |
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Impossible Slab | 8B (Boulder worked) | ✓ | ||
Anaesthesia | 8A+ (Boulder worked) | ✓ | 8B | |
Climbed with feet on the back and given 8B. New beta using heels on the lip has taken the grade to 8A+. |
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Atomic Garden | 8A (Boulder worked) | ✓ | 8A | |
Information Highway Revisited | 7C+ (Boulder worked) | ✓ | 2006 |
Climb | Grade | FA | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
A Moment of Clarity | E10 (Boulder worked) | ✓ | Feb 2006 | |
One of the last hard lines John climbed. |
Climb | Grade | FA | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
Pump up the Stamina | 8c+ (Boulder worked) | ✓ |