Climbing History | Dan Varian

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.

Year	Climb	Grade	Ascent Date
2006	Queen Kong	8A (Boulder worked)	2006
2006	Queen Kong	First ascent.
2007
2008	Serendipity	8B+ (Boulder worked)	2008
	Serendipity	First ascent.
	A Bigger Belly	8B (Boulder worked)	2008
	A Bigger Belly	First ascent. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Peb1QdlzZdI
	Little Women	8B+ (Boulder worked)	Dec 2008
	Little Women	Second ascent. http://beastmakerblog.blogspot.com/2008/12/little-women.html
	Superbloc	8A+ (Boulder ground up)	6th Dec 2008
	Superbloc	Second ascent. https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2008/12/dan_varian_repeats_superbloc_e8font_8a-45495
2009
2010	Ivan Dobsky	8A+ (Boulder worked)	2010
	Ivan Dobsky	First ascent. http://beastmakerblog.blogspot.com/2010/12/things-ive-learnt-this-year.html
	Badger Badger Badger	8A (Boulder worked)	2010
	Badger Badger Badger	First ascent.
	The Young	7C+ (Boulder worked)	2010
	The Young	Second ascent. http://beastmakerblog.blogspot.com/2010/11/young.html
	Sean's Roof	8A+ (Boulder worked)	Aug 2010
	Sean's Roof	http://vimeo.com/13640222 http://vimeo.com/14205239
	Nth Power	8A+ (Boulder worked)	Nov 2010
	Nth Power	First ascent. http://beastmakerblog.blogspot.com/2010/11/more-cloud-formations.html
2011	Dandelion Mind	8B (Boulder worked)	2011
	Dandelion Mind	First ascent. https://vimeo.com/23044295
	Home	8B (Boulder worked)	2011
	Home	First ascent. https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/8128371685/in/photostream/
	Rhythm	8A+ (Boulder worked)	2011
	Rhythm	https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/6888177035/in/photostream/
	Stanton Deliver	8A+ (Boulder worked)	9th Feb 2011
	Stanton Deliver	First ascent. https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/5430896018/in/photostream/ http://beastmakerblog.blogspot.com/2011/02/stanton-delivers.html
	Cypher	8B (Boulder worked)	Between 10th Feb 2011 and 18th Feb 2011
	Cypher	http://beastmakerblog.blogspot.com/2011/02/sporadically-slippystones.html
	Voyager	8B (Boulder worked)	26th Apr 2011
	The Prow	8A (Boulder worked)	Nov 2011
	The Prow	Second ascent. https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/11/dan_and_ned_-_the_prow_e9_and_black_triage-64897 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=meYWJdX-qhQ
	The Dark Side	E9 (Lead ground up)	Dec 2011
	The Dark Side	Highballed above a stack of pads. https://marksavagephotography.blogspot.com/2011/12/darth-varian-turns-to-dark-side.html
2012	Potty Mouth	8B (Boulder worked)	2012
	Potty Mouth	First ascent.
	County Ethics	7C+ (Boulder flash)	Between 2nd Jan 2012 and 2nd Jan 2013
	End Sequence	8B (Boulder worked)	Jun 2012
	End Sequence	First ascent.
	Second Coming	8B (Boulder worked)	Nov 2012
	Second Coming	https://vimeo.com/54763322
2013	Cruachan	8A+ (Boulder worked)	2013
	Cruachan	First ascent. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=re59GMVnVv8
	Marra Time	8A+ (Boulder worked)	2013
	Marra Time	First ascent. https://youtu.be/re59GMVnVv8?t=315
	Lanny Bassham	8A+ (Boulder worked)	Jun 2013
	Lanny Bassham	https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/9148842045/#secret7ee522a272
	Dark Edges	8B (Boulder worked)	Aug 2013
	Dark Edges	First ascent.
	Isla de Encanta	8B (Boulder worked)	Oct 2013
	Isla de Encanta	https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/10307407215/#secret328c77982f
	The Rail	8B+ (Boulder worked)	10th Oct 2013
	The Rail	First ascent. If it's the best climb I ever do I'll retire a happy man, if it's the hardest, likewise. All I know is that it was a joy seeing through the process. This to me is why I boulder, for the difficulty and intricacy that can only be felt without distractions, to climb up lines like this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6NLOMZKFGOs
2014	Hobbie Noble	8B (Boulder worked)	2014
2014	Hobbie Noble	First ascent. There's a two finger dimple...you pull over with that and then you flip your palm and get your foot up. As I was pulling over with it my ring finger popped out of the dink so I was mono crimping with my middle finger, and I started to reel backwards and went in to emergency crimping but on a mono, and just pulled myself back the right way...That was memorable! https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/07/hobbie_noble_highball_8b_first_ascent_for_varian-69031
2015	Star Power	8B+ (Boulder worked)	2015
	Star Power	First ascent.
	Northern Time	8B (Boulder worked)	2015
	Northern Time	First ascent.
	Tsar Pushka	8B (Boulder worked)	Mar 2015
	Tsar Pushka	First ascent.
2016	L'Alchemiste	8B+ (Boulder worked)	2016
	L'Alchemiste	https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/33977773295/in/dateposted/
	Panic on Funkotron	8B (Boulder worked)	Mar 2016
	Panic on Funkotron	First ascent.
	Deep Space Jam	8B (Boulder worked)	Mar 2016
	Deep Space Jam	First ascent.
2017	Master of Stone	8B (Boulder worked)	2017
	Master of Stone	First ascent.
	Moonrise Kingdom	E9 (Lead worked)	May 2017
	Moonrise Kingdom	First ascent. https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2017/05/moonrise_kingdom_new_e9_multipitch_by_mchaffie_and_varian-71089
	High Fidelity	8B (Boulder ground up)	Nov 2017
	High Fidelity	https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/24674839658/
2018	Flipnic	8B (Boulder worked)	2018
	Flipnic	First ascent.
	Rift Aversion	7C+ (Boulder worked)	2018
	Rift Aversion	First ascent.
2019	Bombadil	8B+ (Boulder worked)	2019
	Bombadil	First ascent. For me it was my perfect experience of climbing. References [1] https://www.scarpa.co.uk/blog/christianbury-part-3-article/ [2] Video https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/49308851368/ [3] https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/48704602472/in/photostream/ [4] https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/48704573032/in/photostream
	Transcendence	E9 (Lead worked)	9th Mar 2019
	Transcendence	https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2019/03/third_ascent_of_transcendence_e8_6c_by_dan_varian-71896 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JVmbGjd3pK8
	Mein Vein	8A+ (Boulder worked)	Apr 2019
	Mein Vein	First ascent. http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=914
2020
2021	Hot Shots	8B (Boulder worked)	2021
2021	Hot Shots	First ascent. https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/51497360581/in/photostream/
2022	Tide Lines	8B (Boulder worked)	2022
	Tide Lines	First ascent.
	Catapult	8A+ (Boulder worked)	2022
	Catapult	With this ascent Dan had climbed every 8th grade problem in Northumberland. [1] References [1] https://open.spotify.com/episode/4bRrEUd2U0S1NfuZbyQ7h3?si=c8194c8d16624c07 [2] https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/52502998907/
	Eagle Huntress	8B (Boulder worked)	Apr 2022
	Eagle Huntress	First ascent. https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/52090730298/in/photostream/ http://www.lakesbloc.com/2022/04/08/eagle-huntress-8b-mardale-head-boulders/
	Eagle Huntress (Stand)	8A (Boulder worked)	May 2022
	Eagle Huntress (Stand)	First ascent.
2023	Right Here Right Now	8B (Boulder worked)	2023
	Right Here Right Now	First ascent. https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/52692867578/in/photostream/
	The Magna Strata	8B+ (Boulder worked)	Feb 2023
	The Magna Strata	First ascent. The sequence now is crazy, I have to side crab and lower my hips, then grab a half a 5p pebble and get in balance to bump my rh across the slot into more of a crimp, then I can lock up to a higher pebble and whip over for a hold on the top. [1] References [1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,31921.msg674071.html#msg674071 [2] Photos from a prior session, around Jan 2019 https://www.flickr.com/photos/ann-nigel/52728372113/in/datetaken-public/, https://www.flickr.com/photos/ann-nigel/52727369447/in/datetaken-public/ [3] https://scottishbloc.com/2023/03/09/news-the-magna-strata/ [4] Interview with Xa White for UKClimbing.com, March 2023 https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/dan_varian_on_the_magna_strata_8b+-15091

Climb	Grade	Ascent Date	Suggested Grade

Climb	Grade	Ascent Date	Suggested Grade
Serendipity	8B+ (Boulder worked)	2008
Serendipity	First ascent.
The Rail	8B+ (Boulder worked)	10th Oct 2013	8B+
The Rail	First ascent. If it's the best climb I ever do I'll retire a happy man, if it's the hardest, likewise. All I know is that it was a joy seeing through the process. This to me is why I boulder, for the difficulty and intricacy that can only be felt without distractions, to climb up lines like this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6NLOMZKFGOs
Star Power	8B+ (Boulder worked)	2015
Star Power	First ascent.
Bombadil	8B+ (Boulder worked)	2019	8B+
Bombadil	First ascent. For me it was my perfect experience of climbing. References [1] https://www.scarpa.co.uk/blog/christianbury-part-3-article/ [2] Video https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/49308851368/ [3] https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/48704602472/in/photostream/ [4] https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/48704573032/in/photostream
The Magna Strata	8B+ (Boulder worked)	Feb 2023
The Magna Strata	First ascent. The sequence now is crazy, I have to side crab and lower my hips, then grab a half a 5p pebble and get in balance to bump my rh across the slot into more of a crimp, then I can lock up to a higher pebble and whip over for a hold on the top. [1] References [1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,31921.msg674071.html#msg674071 [2] Photos from a prior session, around Jan 2019 https://www.flickr.com/photos/ann-nigel/52728372113/in/datetaken-public/, https://www.flickr.com/photos/ann-nigel/52727369447/in/datetaken-public/ [3] https://scottishbloc.com/2023/03/09/news-the-magna-strata/ [4] Interview with Xa White for UKClimbing.com, March 2023 https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/dan_varian_on_the_magna_strata_8b+-15091
La Ligne De Bête	8B+ (Boulder worked)
La Ligne De Bête	First ascent.
Bewilderness	8B+ (Boulder worked)
Bewilderness	First ascent. https://vimeo.com/28097486
Crescendo	8B+ (Boulder worked)
Crescendo	First ascent.
Little Women	8B+ (Boulder worked)	Dec 2008
Little Women	Second ascent. http://beastmakerblog.blogspot.com/2008/12/little-women.html
L'Alchemiste	8B+ (Boulder worked)	2016
L'Alchemiste	https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/33977773295/in/dateposted/
A Bigger Belly	8B (Boulder worked)	2008
A Bigger Belly	First ascent. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Peb1QdlzZdI
Dandelion Mind	8B (Boulder worked)	2011
Dandelion Mind	First ascent. https://vimeo.com/23044295
Home	8B (Boulder worked)	2011
Home	First ascent. https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/8128371685/in/photostream/
Potty Mouth	8B (Boulder worked)	2012
Potty Mouth	First ascent.
End Sequence	8B (Boulder worked)	Jun 2012
End Sequence	First ascent.
Dark Edges	8B (Boulder worked)	Aug 2013
Dark Edges	First ascent.
Hobbie Noble	8B (Boulder worked)	2014
Hobbie Noble	First ascent. There's a two finger dimple...you pull over with that and then you flip your palm and get your foot up. As I was pulling over with it my ring finger popped out of the dink so I was mono crimping with my middle finger, and I started to reel backwards and went in to emergency crimping but on a mono, and just pulled myself back the right way...That was memorable! https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/07/hobbie_noble_highball_8b_first_ascent_for_varian-69031
Northern Time	8B (Boulder worked)	2015
Northern Time	First ascent.
Tsar Pushka	8B (Boulder worked)	Mar 2015
Tsar Pushka	First ascent.
Panic on Funkotron	8B (Boulder worked)	Mar 2016
Panic on Funkotron	First ascent.
Deep Space Jam	8B (Boulder worked)	Mar 2016
Deep Space Jam	First ascent.
Master of Stone	8B (Boulder worked)	2017
Master of Stone	First ascent.
Flipnic	8B (Boulder worked)	2018
Flipnic	First ascent.
Hot Shots	8B (Boulder worked)	2021
Hot Shots	First ascent. https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/51497360581/in/photostream/
Tide Lines	8B (Boulder worked)	2022
Tide Lines	First ascent.
Eagle Huntress	8B (Boulder worked)	Apr 2022
Eagle Huntress	First ascent. https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/52090730298/in/photostream/ http://www.lakesbloc.com/2022/04/08/eagle-huntress-8b-mardale-head-boulders/
Right Here Right Now	8B (Boulder worked)	2023
Right Here Right Now	First ascent. https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/52692867578/in/photostream/
Flip Flopera	8B (Boulder worked)
Flip Flopera	First ascent.
Sideshow	8B (Boulder worked)
Sideshow	First ascent.
Cypher	8B (Boulder worked)	Between 10th Feb 2011 and 18th Feb 2011
Cypher	http://beastmakerblog.blogspot.com/2011/02/sporadically-slippystones.html
Voyager	8B (Boulder worked)	26th Apr 2011
Second Coming	8B (Boulder worked)	Nov 2012
Second Coming	https://vimeo.com/54763322
Isla de Encanta	8B (Boulder worked)	Oct 2013
Isla de Encanta	https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/10307407215/#secret328c77982f
High Fidelity	8B (Boulder ground up)	Nov 2017
High Fidelity	https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/24674839658/
Serenity	8B (Boulder worked)
Serenity	https://vimeo.com/3529545
Ivan Dobsky	8A+ (Boulder worked)	2010
Ivan Dobsky	First ascent. http://beastmakerblog.blogspot.com/2010/12/things-ive-learnt-this-year.html
Nth Power	8A+ (Boulder worked)	Nov 2010
Nth Power	First ascent. http://beastmakerblog.blogspot.com/2010/11/more-cloud-formations.html
Stanton Deliver	8A+ (Boulder worked)	9th Feb 2011
Stanton Deliver	First ascent. https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/5430896018/in/photostream/ http://beastmakerblog.blogspot.com/2011/02/stanton-delivers.html
Cruachan	8A+ (Boulder worked)	2013
Cruachan	First ascent. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=re59GMVnVv8
Marra Time	8A+ (Boulder worked)	2013
Marra Time	First ascent. https://youtu.be/re59GMVnVv8?t=315
Mein Vein	8A+ (Boulder worked)	Apr 2019
Mein Vein	First ascent. http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=914
Superbloc	8A+ (Boulder ground up)	6th Dec 2008
Superbloc	Second ascent. https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2008/12/dan_varian_repeats_superbloc_e8font_8a-45495
Sean's Roof	8A+ (Boulder worked)	Aug 2010
Sean's Roof	http://vimeo.com/13640222 http://vimeo.com/14205239
Rhythm	8A+ (Boulder worked)	2011
Rhythm	https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/6888177035/in/photostream/
Lanny Bassham	8A+ (Boulder worked)	Jun 2013
Lanny Bassham	https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/9148842045/#secret7ee522a272
Catapult	8A+ (Boulder worked)	2022
Catapult	With this ascent Dan had climbed every 8th grade problem in Northumberland. [1] References [1] https://open.spotify.com/episode/4bRrEUd2U0S1NfuZbyQ7h3?si=c8194c8d16624c07 [2] https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/52502998907/
Queen Kong	8A (Boulder worked)	2006
Queen Kong	First ascent.
Badger Badger Badger	8A (Boulder worked)	2010
Badger Badger Badger	First ascent.
Eagle Huntress (Stand)	8A (Boulder worked)	May 2022
Eagle Huntress (Stand)	First ascent.
The Prow	8A (Boulder worked)	Nov 2011
The Prow	Second ascent. https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/11/dan_and_ned_-_the_prow_e9_and_black_triage-64897 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=meYWJdX-qhQ
Rift Aversion	7C+ (Boulder worked)	2018
Rift Aversion	First ascent.
The Young	7C+ (Boulder worked)	2010
The Young	Second ascent. http://beastmakerblog.blogspot.com/2010/11/young.html
County Ethics	7C+ (Boulder flash)	Between 2nd Jan 2012 and 2nd Jan 2013

Climb	Grade	Ascent Date
Moonrise Kingdom	E9 (Lead worked)	May 2017
Moonrise Kingdom	First ascent. https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2017/05/moonrise_kingdom_new_e9_multipitch_by_mchaffie_and_varian-71089
The Dark Side	E9 (Lead ground up)	Dec 2011
The Dark Side	Highballed above a stack of pads. https://marksavagephotography.blogspot.com/2011/12/darth-varian-turns-to-dark-side.html
Transcendence	E9 (Lead worked)	9th Mar 2019
Transcendence	https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2019/03/third_ascent_of_transcendence_e8_6c_by_dan_varian-71896 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JVmbGjd3pK8

Climb	Grade	Ascent Date	Suggested Grade

Nationality:	GB
Hardest Boulder (Worked):	8B+
Hardest Boulder (Flash):	7C+
Hardest Trad (Worked):	E9

Nationality:	GB
Hardest Boulder (Worked):	8B+
Hardest Boulder (Flash):	7C+
Hardest Trad (Worked):	E9

Dan Varian

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The Rail (8B+, FA)

Transcendence (E9)

Dandelion Mind (8B, FA)

Second Coming (8B)

Bewilderness (8B+, FA)

Serenity (8B)

The Magna Strata (8B+, FA)

Cruachan (8A+, FA)

Marra Time (8A+, FA)

The Prow (8A)

A Bigger Belly (8B, FA)

Catapult (8A+)

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