Violent New Breed, Giggleswick South

9a+ Sport route

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/giggleswick_south-604/violent_new_breed-12867

(Interview in On the Edge?)

John Gaskins completed Violent New Breed (9a+, or 5.15a) at the G-Spot, in Gigleswick, England. Gaskins bolted the route in 1993 and worked on it for the following two summers; in 1995, he spent roughly 50 days traying to master it. 1996 looked to be the year of the redpoint, until Gaskins discovered that one of the holds, a subtly glued-back-on crimp, had been knocked off, with the words "Tut tut" chalked onto the crag, and lost interest. In 2000, he returned, and bested the move without the edge. In 2004, Gaskins redpointed the bouldery 20-foot line.

Writes Gaskins: "it is comfortably harder than Hubble."

Excluded

Widely disputed. When the FA was photographed on the route he wasn't able to do the moves and could barely hold positions.

Ascents

1 recorded ascents.

Climber Style FA Ascent Date
John Gaskins Lead (Worked) 21 Jun 2004

Widely disputed ascent. John claimed to have worked and climbed this using a self belay setup.

Excluded

Widely disputed ascent.

There is a picture of John on this, however Dan Varian has spoken to the photographer, Ray Wood, who said that John was unable to repeat any of the hard moves.