Steve McClure

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Known as 'The Easy Easy' project before it was done. 127 sessions spanning 10 seasons.

Steve's diary of his attempts on the route is available here http://www.steve-mcclure.com/articles/131-rainman-saga.

16/5/2013 - session 40, on a training link of Bat Route in to the top of Rainman.

Great conditions. I knew I would do it. But I didn’t! Foiled by the snagging krab, Rich Heap had left it open when filming. Gutted! 2nd go fell on heartbreaker slap, 3rd go actually almost held the sloper. All over it today, it just would not give in!

20/4/2014 - Session 53

Waste of time today, and very frustrating. Whats the point of spending all season building back up to a level that is nowhere near. Basically I already know its too hard, the curve doesn’t come close to the target. I’m out of time already. Mentally its over, probably forever, with motivation to reach high points only. Managed floor to undercut clip. And yes, that’s high, but its nowhere, again!

6/11/2014

Evolution at Ravenstor lapped 3 times with short rest. Puts perspective on Malham project!

5/6/2015 - Session 74

Twice to stab from belay! Bah, just can’t nail that move! And I can’t get this link [from Raindogs belay to top]. I think this link is harder than Batman. It must be 9a+ as a link. So font 8a into 8c+ = 9a+? sounds about right. Or maybe this link is even harder? I’ve spent 75 days now and still not done this link. But a bit wet, crag starting to seep – what, its june!

15/6/2015 - Session 76

managed from floor to stab! Definite high point! Some beta changes mean I am flying through! Feels awesome. But battered later and failed to get through bulge twice. Very good though. And a good point to finish the season. Still feels like a long way, but enough to keep me motivated to get back on it.

29/9/2015 - Session 79

Good efforts today from floor, once to stab, once to razor. That’s awesome. BUT spotted a major sequence change, getting LH into pocket instead of R, much easier, then use the tooth as a side pull for RH to move LH to the micro block, then RH into pocket. Absolutely can’t believe I didn’t spot this. All that messing around years ago trying to find a way to get RH into pocket!! And then years of trying the section with the poor undercut. What an idiot! Very exciting!

5/10/2015 - Session 80

Condensed crag, even failed on RD! But went on upper bit excited about new sequence. But straight away ripped the tooth off, totally lost, no chance of repair. Gutted. How about that for a teaser? Not happy.

19/4/2016 - Session 91

Floor to Stab move!! Very exciting. A real high-point. So just maybe it could be possible? If I hold the pocket well I should get a move higher, then it’s the heartbreaker… that’s really close… wow, it could go!!

23/5/2016 - Session 99

Last day, and I knew it. Heart not in it, I figure I am burnt out now, I’ve been going backwards a while. However, that pressure-off thing helped, and from floor I got fingers in pocket, soo close to holding, but not quite. But I was blown really. I need to have a bit left there and I didn’t. But good place to leave it, I’m pretty psyched!

7/11/2016 - Session 108

The end!!! Good conditions, wanted progress, but fell off bulge 3 times! Gutted really. Mentally gave up. Will I even come back?? I’m now so many years in. Its been great, and to be fair there isn’t much else to do at Malham, but that’s not my reason for being on it. I love the process, the journey. But now it really looks like the journey has no end, and I don’t think I can just carry on forever!

28/4/2017 - Session 117

2 x floor to stab. So back on high points. Feel pretty good this year. Not sure if it’s the micro beta? Bulge I’m getting most times, Kneebar I’m really milking though its so intense on the body, then I’m so fast on the next section.

12/5/2017 - Session 121

Progress. Beta worked. So marginal! But twice held the pocket. Once just for a second, then next go managed to move feet. So a breakthrough. Now it actually feels possible. For the first time ever its ON!! Need more progress though. Its still a bunch more after that.

21/5/2017 - Session 124

Good conditions, though warm at first. But ominous, as forecast truly boiling. Everyone talking of sacking off Malham. No one coming after today. I had 2 goes, 1st held stab, but not well, 2nd just slapped stab. That’s it, its over again. But last move. Then I had a last go ‘to get the draws out’ but conditions amazing, just kept going, no pressure. Then I’d held the heartbreaker, and the RH crimp, foot on edge, reached for final undercut… but somehow just short. 5mm further and I was in. But NO. so gutted. Suddenly I was devastated. First time ever on this route I have been truly gutted

4/6/2017 - Session 127

YES!! Was it always on? I don’t think so. Was this my last chance? Maybe, forecast is truly awful!! Pressure was on! First go was great weather, but rock a tad warm from sun. Almost held heartbreaker. Then tired. Felt drained, disappointed, felt that was it! Rested 3 hr, then nailed it. BUT so close, like ridiculous, closest ever, almost dropped very last move to good holds, and then even in BR I absolutely struggled. Panicked at BR rest and stayed for ages. But then the last 8a wall was easy, and just SOO much fun. Every move I knew it was gonna happen, the moves just flowed, and then at last, it was over.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2017/06/steve_mcclure_on_rainman_9b-71135

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L01OUNJvd1E

[3] https://www.instagram.com/p/COtJSLNjJgK/

A hugely impressive ascent for the time, and doubly so since it was only 3 years after Steve climbed his first 8th grade route (Zeke the Freak in October 1995). Steve suggested 9a but it is now considered 9a+ which makes it the first of the grade in the UK and the first of the grade by a British person.

It took Steve 24 sessions over 4 years to make the first ascent.

The first time I did that move from the ground, I did the route, but I only did the last move by the skin of my teeth. I'm pretty sure a gust of wind blew me up that last move...

Steve's diary [2]

Below are some extracts from Steve's diary while he was attempting the route.

7th October 1998, day 22:

Yet another failed day. Getting annoying now! Feel as though I should be doing better. Maybe I am getting a ‘head’ problem on ‘that’ move. Today I had 2 RP efforts, first go was the best, swinging over to the pinch but not getting the distance. 2nd go was rubbish. No psyche and hardly tried. Evo is feeling a path, but that cross is just a killer! Today I got Myles (Gibson) up there for a look, and with his fingers his opinion on moves is really important. He found it nails too, and no info change really (would have been nice if he found an easier way!). He reckoned 8b at least for the extension if not more, so it means the route could be overall 9a. That’s probably why I’m not getting up it!

10th October 1998, day 23:

THAT move FOUR times today! Excellent conditions. I’m wasting them! They will run out soon for sure. Not sure about the head problem except I expect to fail now. I set off knowing I’ll get to that move, and fall off that move. But I still think I’m trying hard enough, even on the move. Its just so momentum orientated. I need to have the movement pattern in my mind and not just try and static it. I’m sure it will go. Spent ages fiddling with the move and found perhaps a slightly easier way of swinging it, but only slightly, and probably not at all really. But that top section is still so hard. Today after each go I climbed the top section to keep it fresh. I could for sure drop that bit! Just need to keep plugging away.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CVDi_UjDMGG/

[2] Extracts from Steve's diary in the days leading up to making the first ascent http://steve-mcclure.com/articles/155-mutation-a-bunch-of-happy-days-at-the-tor

[3] Rupert Davies and Steve trying some moves and sequences on the route https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h8yl9bytOuo

[4] https://www.instagram.com/p/CVx65_hIqBp/

[5] Steve on the route in 2001, photo by Simon Carter https://www.instagram.com/p/CWUR2kyMNMH/

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GWmQY_5LiwI

Steve cemented himself as the top sport climber in the UK, taking over from Moon and Moffatt and leading sport climbing in the UK in to a new era.

Notably, Steve used a different sequence from what Ben Moon was trying with the original line. Steve's sequence loops out slightly where Ben was trying to go very direct.

The route took more out of me than any other and tested more than my climbing ability - mentally it was draining and took over my whole life. I think it had to for me to get up it. For a better climber the route could fall quite quickly, especially without the pressure of it being a first ascent. The moves are totally sustained but never desperate, I'm sure the future of hard climbing is in this style - super sustained thing. [1]

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 101, page 11

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wWCNIsnLk4

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2003/06/mcclure_completes_malham_project-8315

[3] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/steve__mclure_raindogs_extensdion_9a-49254?v=1#x653283

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IVu7StN1qjo

[2] Climb Issue 42, page 30

Steve's 581st route at 8a or above. [3]

A real milestone, possibly my biggest achievement in climbing, even bigger perhaps than Overshadow. Hubble is special, it's a massive trophy and a world icon with a real history.

Steve on the successful ascent:

On the say I did Hubble I totally didn't expect to do it; I so didn't expect to do it that I didn't even have any quickdrawers in at the top! So hanging on a hold half way up I had to get someone to throw up some quickdraws. [4]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2009/08/steve_mcclure_-_hubble_f8c+-48867

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d0cq2CZe_40

[3] https://www.instagram.com/p/Czt-_eItyVN/

[4] https://open.spotify.com/episode/1YbEX5LbR0aS1h2oOnrxaf?rYxlKw

On a previous redpoint Steve had all but done the route when a quickdraw with a sticky gate got jammed in his knot as he climbed past, stopping him mere inches from the finishing jugs and robbing him of the ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nldb3ZohDLo

References

[1] Footage of a much later ascent https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DBxwQ--odXg.

Steve memorably described the route as like

driving out to Rubicon, slamming my fingers in the car door three times, then driving home. [2]

References

[1] https://www.climbing.de/news/steve-mcclure-repeats-the-bastard-8c-42510.html

[2] https://www.ukhillwalking.com/forums/rock_talk/the_chis_craggs_aid_route_called_free_that_you_btards-559294?v=1#x7449156

[3] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cy3qNVGhjYq/

[4] On The Edge Issue 109, page 12

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tfe6xr2Mbrc&t=473

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E_kQlRoUhXk

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2020/10/first_ascent_of_fixation_8c+_at_malham_cove_by_steve_mcclure-72511

Steve and Malcolm Smith worked the route together then Steve made the second ascent a few days after Malc made the FA.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 91, page 11

[2] On The Edge Issue 91, page 85

Should have got this first go in an hour really, Got to within 2 moves on the flash. SO close. Easy RP in the end after a rest day. Good route for sure! Classic Kilnsey.

References

[1] Email correspondence

Bouldering with stamina start – hard. Tough for grade for me. I’m weak at boulder moves when pumped. This is something I should sort out with training.

References

[1] Email correspondence

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CfrPsHFodgU/

References

[1] Email correspondence

References

[1] On The Edge 63, page 10 /library/11066/on-the-edge-63

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CBRAwErJiNs/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CAZweMzgHea/

[3] On The Edge Issue 103, page 42

References

[1] One The Edge Issue 91, page 11

[2] On The Edge Issue 91, page 85

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 91, page 85

World’s First one day ascent ever. Took 2 hours start to finish, 2nd RP. First RP was a daft mistake too. What a great route. One with history. Chipped?

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 103, page 42

[2] On The Edge Issue 88, page 16

[3] Email correspondence

References

[1] https://javu.co.uk/Climbing/Articles/SouthWestDevelopments/index.shtml

[2] On The Edge Issue 103, page 42

[3] On The Edge Issue 100, page 10

Tantalisingly close to the onsight!

I should have onsighted it but I fell off low down before I'd got in to my rhythm and then got back on and climbed straight to the top. Fifteen minutes later I redpointed the 100-move monster without any difficulty. [1]

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 103, page 42

With this ascent Steve became the first British climber to onsight 8b+.

Up with [Paul?] Reeve, quick one for me. Suited me very well on bad crimps and high steps. All over in a flash, short crux. But pleased to get it absolutely spot on.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2008/06/mcclure_flashes_8b+_at_kilnsey-44705

[2] Email correspondence

References

[1] http://www.steve-mcclure.com/articles/116-tom-et-je-ris

Steve's 991st route at 8a or harder.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_climbs_1000th_8a_-_the_magic_grade-15509

The same day as onsighting Budo.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C0LvWQEt79A/

Steve's first 8th grade route!

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_climbs_1000th_8a_-_the_magic_grade-15509

A flash of an 8b! Must be 8a+ as I’m not so good, but keeping the grade, very crimpy, so maybe I just fluked it as my style. Amazing route

References

[1] Email correspondence

Awesome route, best in OZ.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cza3LPwNQkl/

Total o/s, but admitted beta from 95 – why? I had none!! I can’t even remember ‘what’ beta I had, might have been told it was hard. Just didn’t want bad press.

References

[1] Email correspondence

Hardest O/S ever and close to falling 3 times! Was 8b+ when I did it, now down to 8b. Almost off at the top on a boulder section. Pleased with this one for sure!

SO Close to Flashing True North too…but then too tired to RP it! Not sure Full tilt is really a route as its basically the first bit of TN, but think that’s what most do.

References

[1] Email correspondence

Did have beta. This would be a mega O/S really. Hard start for sure. If you could smash this start onsight there would be a good chance of getting it onsight.

References

[1] Email correspondence

Happy to flash this classic, didn’t feel too hard either. Maybe I was psyched for it!

References

[1] Email correspondence

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xp0aHPoXfxs

The same day as onsighting Queimada.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C0LvWQEt79A/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C8tf9Ejtar7/?img_index=1

References

[1] On The Edge 118, page 10

Long...Good conditions needed for this one and they were awesome.Had to keep it together for ever on this route.

It's one of those routes that're much easier to flash than on-sight. If you didn't know a key piece of information you wouldn't know where to go - knowing what to do it felt more like 8a+. [1]

References

[1] On The Edge 122, page 14.

The first of many ascents, as Steve went on to add routes such as Rainshadow and Rainman which extend Raindogs.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 91, page 85

Steve's 1000th route at 8a or harder, 28 years after his first. This was actually the second time he had climbed the route, but it had lost some holds since his previous ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CzQkxToNpkh/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ph2vCWrTX-Q

[3] Summit issue 113, page 21.

Hardest o/s of this trip, super crimpy, amazing, Felt actually hard for grade as so intense. Hard to read.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_climbs_1000th_8a_-_the_magic_grade-15509

Confirmed over email with Malcolm Smith and Steve.

Possibly the first ascent to use a heel

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/threads/classic-boulders-with-arbitrary-rules.32065/page-4#post-665021

Steve went left to the arête, skipping the two hard finishing moves.

Dave MacLeod, on viewing footage of McClure's ascent on the film 'Committed 2':

The most eye popping moment for me though was seeing Steve McClure on Rhapsody - going left to the jugs on the left arête two moves before the redpoint crux, a link I did in August 2005 and considered finishing the route this way and making an E10. It was contrived to carry on direct following the crack right to the top, probably daft on my part, but that’s what all the fuss was about, and for me what made it scrape into E11. I thought hard about it and eventually felt it would a shame to take the escape just before the culmination of the route, and also saw when I tried to link it going direct that this route had the opportunity to make a really tough route – that’s what I was after. I paid for that decision with several more falls from the final move, a winter of worry and many nights of training, all the time knowing I could just traverse left from the sidepull for an easy option and still get an E10 tick.

Only two last moves; but those are the moves that make you fall, as is obvious if you watch the film E11. It’s a shame that arête is there, and so the route I took has to have an eliminate rule. But at least the rule is super simple - don’t go to the left arête. I was glad Sonnie saw the significance of that. I got past that escape point on my second redpoint, same as Steve. I could have gone left, only had one small fall from the same place as Steve, and finished the project in 2005. But I wanted to make a hard route, so I went direct. All this is no problem in my mind, folk can and should climb whatever way they want on a cliff.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4uWnE5_Ln5s

[2]https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2008/06/steve_mcclure_climbs_rhapsody_trotter_does_it_again-44777

[3] https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2008/12/home-in-winter-wonderland.html

Before the successful ascent Steve took a huge fall [4] from the very top of the route, estimated to be around 20m!

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CUGKwg9I08O/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CUKv0PloFU1/

[3] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=391908775842548&set=a.229693922064035

[4] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O7_MFQfmGFg

References

[1] https://www.thebmc.co.uk/pembroke-demon-route-slain-by-strong-steve-mcclure

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WTYhmGlxpnw

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SM70wIKPQps

References

[1] Interview with Xa White for UKClimbing.com, March 2023 https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_repeats_le_voyage_e10_7a-15116

[2] Interview with PlanetMountain.com, April 2023 https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/steve-mcclure-makes-quick-trip-up-le-voyage-at-annot.html

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bzn9xm17YGk

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DBIuK_Mt8ji/

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2024/10/steve_mcclure_makes_second_ascent_of_yma_o_hyd_e10_7a-73823

[3] https://www.climber.co.uk/news/steve-mcclure-gets-second-ascent-of-yma-o-hyd-e10-7a/

Steve repeated the line but skipped the pegs that protect the finish up Mission Impossible, instead placing nuts and small cams to protect it.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DKSqF8Wsbol/?img_index=1

[2] https://www.climber.co.uk/news/steve-mcclure-repeats-yma-o-hyd-again-on-trad-gear-only/

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mfK9ynVsDvI

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/COUxsmMjMbr/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SDQcDNzh_bA

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2024/05/mission_impossible_e9_6c_by_steve_mcclure-73683

Steve used 3 ropes on the first ascent. This turned out to be a very wise choice in light o Michele Caminati'a horrendous fall while repeating the line for photos.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QDTAKVUE_g4

Likely the first one-day ascent of the full line.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/05/steve_mcclure_repeats_the_quarryman_e8-62420

After the event you quickly forget, but I really had to give it everything, and only just got it. I’ve seen people say ‘its 8a so for Steve it should be ‘piss’, well, it doesn’t work like that! 8a is really hard. 7b is hard! An Olympic level 100m sprinter who can manage 9 seconds doesn’t just stroll along in 9.5 seconds! I’d say this was one of the hardest pieces of climbing I’ve ever done. It’s up there with Rainman, Overshadow and Rhapsody though in a different style.

...

It’s damn hard. It’s the hardest trad route I’ve onsighted by a chunk. [2]

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=guVZd4_huSQ

[2] https://www.climber.co.uk/news/steve-mcclure-has-nightmayer-on-sight-on-dinas-cromlech/

https://www.instagram.com/p/CPFwYjwDWhH/

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2021/05/steve_mcclure_flashes_impact_day_e8_6c-72782

A trad route with one bolt – nice style. Semi sport! Great to be going for it and not scared. Different to UK!

Flash of this trad route, thought to be 8a for sure by those in the know placing gear. Very cool climbing and with trad gear in the crack. Saw Bently (sic) rip out a cam!! [1]

References

[1] Email correspondence

References

[1] A record of ground-up and on-sight climbing on Peak, Yorkshire and Lancashire gritstone

References

[1] https://twitter.com/stemac5a/status/478260353399545857

[2] https://www.thebmc.co.uk/sweet-taste-of-strawberries-for-steve-mcclure

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iuVItYSLwKo

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DJ4fynuIrLM/

Date src http://www.steve-mcclure.com/articles/131-rainman-saga#system-message-container:~:text=finest%20pedigree

References

[1] https://www.climber.co.uk/news/tanya-meredith-does-traverse-of-the-gods-f8b/

Is this the hardest DWS in the world?? No!! Sharma got 2nd ascent after me. I took a big lob and got an enema, very painful!

References

[1] Email correspondence

First ascent on trad gear.

Later on, discussing with those on the ground, they all clearly noted three different and distinct stages in my climbing: the first part to the kneebar was shaky and nervous, pessimistic even. The second to the distant wire was focused, determined and streamlined. But the third was like engaging an unknown 6th gear! There was just no way I was falling off; that extra 6th gear only available with the prospect of hours of knackering aid climbing and the knowledge that the next available opportunity could be anywhere between a few months and a decade away! [1]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2021/06/steve_mcclure_repeats_greshams_olympiad_e10_6c8b_dws-72791

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CPam7tEjlIR/

[3] https://www.instagram.com/p/CPbIX6kn1mq/

[4] https://www.instagram.com/p/CPaxCrfjNKf/

[5] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sMoXzSkXcaE

Holy Grail wall, perhaps the best DWS ever. This wall was perfect for DWS, 12m high, really steep, loads of holds. The routes were climbed water up!

References

[1] Email correspondence

Amazing climbing, DWS is it!! Crazy trip with Leo, Sharma, Baxter, Emmet, Weeks, and even Jack Ozbourne. Unfortunately the area now banned!

References

[1] Email correspondence