Parthian Shot (Pre-2011 Break) | E9 Trad climb at Burbage

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First ascent. Around 15 sessions. Third go.

John top roped the route within 40 minutes on his first visit, finding it similar in difficulty to Austrian Oak. He then spent another 12-15 sessions on the route. Believing the flake would not hold a fall, he was rescued on two lead attempts. All gear was placed on lead, with the rope to the runner in Brooks Crack dropped at the half way point to save weight. (2)

He graded the route HXS 7a, with others touting a grade of E10.

There was scepticism from some at the time that John had actually climbed the route, suggesting that the photographs were staged; this has subsequently turned out to be baseless.

References

[1] John repeating the route on top rope for John Dunne - The Big Issue around 1996 https://youtu.be/3D0Mp0RrQRA?t=1448

[2] ‘Peak Rock’ p.276

Second ascent. Pre-placed gear.

Some 15 pieces of gear were pre-placed in the flake.

References

[1] Climber June 1997, page 4

Third ascent. 6 sessions.

Neil placed all the gear on lead, taking falls from the crux. He rated the route 8b to lead with the gear in.

Fourth ascent?

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 90, page 47

References

[1] Ben Bransby adding some detail on the style of Kevin's ascent https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/ukc/james_pearson_climbs_parthian_shot_e10_6c-763419?v=1#x9822066

Me and Pete Robins tried it ground up in the weeks before KJs [Kevin Jorgeson's] ascent. The first day we placed all the gear on lead but did fall off, and hence turn it into a yoyo style ascent (it was still really scary). Pete went home and I tried it a few more times (over the next 2 weeks). I abbed in (with eyes shut, honest, not that it matters!) and placed only the same gear in the flake for my subsequent visits. Obv this was pushing the boundaries of what might or might not count as ground up, but I was only doing it this way because that was how I wanted to try it, not to set any records. On my last visit I felt I had given it a good enough go in this style, fallen off a fair few times, so gave up. Kevin did join me on this session and had a few goes but didn't succeed. He didn't place any of the gear but used mine, which was essentially pre clipped and pre placed for him - like I say it was gear which had (kinda) been placed on lead, and not 10 perfect pieces placed from abb. He went back another day and did do the 'ground up' ascent - I think someone else abbed in for him and placed the gear, maybe more/better than what I had been using?

Sixth ascent.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2008/10/tom_briggs_and_ed_brown_-_an_evening_on_the_grit-45372

[2] https://www.jagged-globe.co.uk/news/item.php?id=1252

With direct start. The same day as leading Meshuga!

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/japanese_climbers_2_e9s_in_a_day-369545