Hard Flash or Onsight Ascents by British Climbers

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One of the first 8a+ onsights in the UK.

Early 1990s.

References

[1] Llanberis Slate. United Kingdom: Ground Up, 2011.

One of the first 8a+ onsights in the UK.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=137438

Later that year [1994] Sharples was seen picking his jaw up off the floor, having just watched Nick Sellers [sic] flash his route. [1]

Ted Kingsnorth:

When asked whether he knew much about the route beforehand, he replied there wasn't a single hand or foothold he didn't know like the back of his hand. [2]

References

[1] Peak Limestone North, First Ascents Supplement /file/bc3fd0e4-a3ee-a736-1cbf-d68af9f0910e/peak_lime_north_first_ascents.pdf

[2] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,31364.msg638920.html#msg638920

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 71, page 8

A flash of an 8b! Must be 8a+ as I’m not so good, but keeping the grade, very crimpy, so maybe I just fluked it as my style. Amazing route

References

[1] Email correspondence

Total o/s, but admitted beta from 95 – why? I had none!! I can’t even remember ‘what’ beta I had, might have been told it was hard. Just didn’t want bad press.

References

[1] Email correspondence

Hardest O/S ever and close to falling 3 times! Was 8b+ when I did it, now down to 8b. Almost off at the top on a boulder section. Pleased with this one for sure!

With this ascent Steve became the first British climber to onsight 8b+.

SO Close to Flashing True North too…but then too tired to RP it! Not sure Full tilt is really a route as its basically the first bit of TN, but think that’s what most do.

References

[1] Email correspondence

Long...Good conditions needed for this one and they were awesome.Had to keep it together for ever on this route.

It's one of those routes that're much easier to flash than on-sight. If you didn't know a key piece of information you wouldn't know where to go - knowing what to do it felt more like 8a+. [1]

References

[1] On The Edge 122, page 14.

Did have beta. This would be a mega O/S really. Hard start for sure. If you could smash this start onsight there would be a good chance of getting it onsight.

References

[1] Email correspondence

Up with [Paul?] Reeve, quick one for me. Suited me very well on bad crimps and high steps. All over in a flash, short crux. But pleased to get it absolutely spot on.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2008/06/mcclure_flashes_8b+_at_kilnsey-44705

[2] Email correspondence

Not a true flash as Chris had climbed The Thumb, which shares a finish with Urgent Action, two weeks previously. [1]

References

[1] https://www.8a.nu/crags/sportclimbing/united-kingdom/kilnsey/sectors/the-north-buttress/routes/urgent-action/

References

[1] http://www.steve-mcclure.com/articles/116-tom-et-je-ris

Happy to flash this classic, didn’t feel too hard either. Maybe I was psyched for it!

References

[1] Email correspondence

Hell yeah!! Fought hard from bottom to top, and climbed well apart from nearly pumping out and punting off trying to get a knee in low down. Down to 8b/+ in the new guide, fuck it, consensus rules! Plus Siegrist took the + and he downgrades all my hard stuff ;)

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2018/01/kale_borroka_8b+_onsight_by_jim_pope-71446

First 8a+ flash by a british woman.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BmafyrQjZSR/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/B6vHgo5jh0X/

Not quite a proper flash as Pete had climbed R'n'P before.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/B14czh3DgPR/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CH3E9SynMqo/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CMFes5-DSPo/

First British woman to flash 8a+ in the UK.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CVdrAgoopaS/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CbiOFQXN7lg/

References

[1] https://youtu.be/_FKYPMHJ_Jo?t=618

The same day as onsighting Budo.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C0LvWQEt79A/

The same day as onsighting Queimada.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C0LvWQEt79A/

Questing sideways for 50m on greasy choss in the golden sunset, occasionally looking back and realising the last few death-trap in-situ slings still had their gates stuck open. Brilliant and terrible in equal measure depending on what you want from it! Maybe doesn't feel so tricky if clean and brushed? Had flashed the intro back in 2010 (when it was 7b+, definitely 7c in its current state) and knew a rest where you cross Fabela, the rest was onsight.

Not a pure flash as Alex had onsighted Blomu R1 13 years previously.

References

[1] https://climbonline.co.uk/2020/05/05/andy-earl-on-top-of-the-world/

References

[1] On The Edge 118, page 10

One of the hardest onsight first ascents at the time.

Early 90s.