Ian Vickers

More

• Change Log
• Threads

Ian's first 8c!

When I first dogged up it putting the clips in, I did every move bar the last slap but my feet were all wrong. On my second go I managed all the moves and some good links, so I went for the redpoint and found myself at the top. [1]

On his preparation for the route:

On my last climbing day before red pointing True North I had a really hard session, I started by going to Longridge and doing the 300' 8b+ traverse [Traverse of the Gods] three times. It's absolutely superb for the basic stamina needed to complete hard routes in a quick time as there are no moves harder than 6b but it is extremely long. After a brew we drove to Kilnsey and did a 7b+, two 7cs, two 7c+s, an 8a and finished off doing a few laps of Urgent Action. [1]

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 71, Page 8 and 20

Legend has it that Vickers was going to suggest 8a+ until someone pointed out it had taken him weeks of work whereas he did True North in a few goes. He then relented and went with 8b! [1]

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg641299.html#msg641299

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 71, page 16

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 105, page 11

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 71, page 8

References

[1] Climber June 1997, page 62

One of the hardest onsight first ascents at the time.

Vickers ticked the wall in an afternoon, including several trad-bolt hybrids up to E7

References

[1] On The Edge issue 114, page 44

[2] On The Edge Issue 105, page 11

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 71, page 8

Flashed the first pitch and then took a fall on the second before redpointing it successfully.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 71, page 8

The day after making the first ascent of The Empire Strikes Back.

References

[1] Climber June 1997, page 62

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 71, page 76

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 71, page 8

References

[1] A record of ground-up and on-sight climbing on Peak, Yorkshire and Lancashire gritstone

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2009/02/ian_vickers_-going_down-_f8c+-45948

Did it 3 times over with no rest.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2017/07/traverse_of_the_gods_8b+_by_gill_peet-71187