James McHaffie

Prolific north wales based trad machine who's also a very capable sport climber. One of the best onsight climbers in the UK with over a hundred E7 onsights to his name. He's also completed some impressive challenges, such as the 100 lakes extremes in a day.

At the time of writing James is a few routes off completing the Extreme Roch challenge.

https://chalkbloc.com/climbing-interviews/james-mchaffie-the-dark-lord-climber-interview

Interview with RockClimbingUK

Media

Mission Impossible
GreatNess Wall
Divided Years
Big Bang
Big Bang
Longhope Route Direct

Ascents

23 recorded ascents.

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date
The Meltdown 9a 01 May 2012 (approx)

http://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/the-meltdown

Guessed the date based on the blog post.

Big Bang 9a 30 Jul 2011 (approx)

He went back a few days later for some pictures and threw down a quick lap!

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/08/james_mchaffie_repeats_the_big_bang_-_9a-63370

https://vimeo.com/28107941

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CLz56lDzjAg

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg325555.html#msg325555

Megalopa 8c+ 01 Apr 2015 (approx)

Third ascent.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2015/04/megalopa_8c+_for_james_mchaffie-69637.

Bat Route 8c 06 Apr 2012
Unjustified 8b+ 06 Aug 2011

In a day and same day as Predator!

Predator 8b 06 Aug 2011

In a day and same day as Unjustified!

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date
Climb Grade FA Ascent Date
GreatNess Wall E10 (Did not finish)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=me6MvieBAF0

House of Talons E9 01 Apr 2016 (approx)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/04/new_12-skyhook_e9_by_james_mchaffie_house_of_talons-70418

Dark Religion E9 01 May 2016 (approx)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/05/new_e9_7a_for_mchaffie_on_dinas_mot_-_dark_religion-70461

Moonrise Kingdom E9 01 May 2017 (approx)

http://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/moonrise-kingdom

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2017/05/moonrise_kingdom_new_e9_multipitch_by_mchaffie_and_varian-71089

Indian Face E9 09 Jul 2013 (approx)

http://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/the-indian-face

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/07/indian_face_e9_for_james_mchaffie-68205

Divided Years E9 (Ground up) 22 Jun 2015 (approx)

Without doubt it’s one of the best single pitch routes, sport or trad, that I’ve ever done. It’s physically around 8a+, safe and straight-forward to get the gear in. The rock is immaculate and the moves are great. The climbing was a lot better than I expected with a lot of cool and varied moves. A great route with a great name.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2015/06/divided_years_e89_ground_up_-_mchaffie+pasquill-69801

https://vimeo.com/187316913

Face Mecca E9 06 Jun 2016 (approx)

https://www.climber.co.uk/news/news/james-mchaffie-repeats-face-mecca-e9/

Once Upon a Time in the Southwest E9 01 May 2018 (approx)
The Walk of Life E9 01 May 2018 (approx)
Longhope Route Direct E9

Swapping leads with Ben Bransby. James led the crucial crux pitch.

https://vimeo.com/67457960

Rare Lichen E9
Mission Impossible E9

Second ascent.

https://vimeo.com/4925236

The Rathlin Effect E9

http://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/fairhead

Gribin Wall Climb E9
Dawes Rides a Shovelhead E8 (Onsight) 01 Aug 2011 (approx)
Coeur de Lion E8 01 Apr 2015 (approx)
Master's Wall E7 01 Jul 2018 (approx)

http://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/masters-wall-extreme-rock

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date