Arapiles

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References

[1] Mountain 70 (1979), page 18

References

[1] Mountain 70 (1979), page 18

References

[1] Mountain 70 (1979), page 18

References

[1] Mountain 70 (1979), page 18

One of the hardest trad. routes in the world at the time. Originally graded 26 (7b+) by the notoriously sand-bagging Moorhead it is now thought to be 28 or 29.

References

[1] https://verticallifemag.com/articles/first-at-the-grade/

One of the ones I'm still most proud about is Ethiopia...I bolted it in the morning then gave it one shot at about 1 o'clock and got through to the second bolt [ed: from where the route leaves India?], fell off, came back down then packed up and thought I'd go home. But then I decided "Stuff it, I'll have another go" and then did it next shot.

I'd done India like a million times so it wasn't challenging having to do India first.

Carrigan initially suggested an Australian grade of 30 which would have made it one of the hardest in the country at the time.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 104, page 11 /library/11125/mountain-104

References

[1] Mountain Issue 104, page 11

References

[1] Mountain Issue 104, page 11 /library/11125/mountain-104

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/937980766268099

[2] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/929016537164522

[3] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/442057275860453

[4] https://open.spotify.com/episode/44jSroCmJWJowHbQQrnpsJ?

[5] Mountain Issue 104, page 11 /library/11125/mountain-104

[6] https://open.spotify.com/episode/7aLk38OBDUEJXuLPTwMun6?

An open project after Kim Carrigan's prolonged but ultimately unsuccessful siege.

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/crags/arapiles.html

References

[1] Mountain Issue 128 (1989), page 10 /library/11313/mountain-128

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/WfNVB8yEt6/

I first saw this line when I was 15. Sean Myles had bolted it and he, Jerry Moffatt, Garth, Nick Sutter, Zac Vertrees and Fred Nicole had all had a play. I have a memory of sitting staring at it as we drove home when I was 15, the sun rising over it and thinking to myself “I’m gonna do that route”…Time goes by and life happens but this line was still there unclimbed in the forefront of my mind. It’s a connies dependent route, which bakes in the sun all day and is 1,000kms from home which added to the trickiness of getting it done. It’s in the most beautiful place on earth overlooking the Wimmera and Punks in the Gym, up where the wind whispers “Wolfgang”. I feel super proud to have done the FA of a line that typifies the Arapilisian style. Climbing, and the process of climbing a project doesn’t get better 💘 Grade-wise, I feel 34 best reflects the difficulties of the line, which’d make it the first at Arapiles, personally I think that is pretty cool. [1]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C64vOwmyaMT/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/reel/C7OgGjaSrhE/

[3] https://open.spotify.com/episode/1WzQ26Tf6jtcWzrh18wTRN?