| Name | Type | # Changes | Last Updated | First Updated | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Tyler Landman | climber | 4 | 16th May 2025 | 16th May 2025 |
| 2 | Lord of the Rings | climb | 2 | 16th May 2025 | 16th May 2025 |
| 3 | The Dark Side | climb | 2 | 5th February 2025 | 5th February 2025 |
| Date | Time | User | Type | Name | Attribute | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 16th May 2025 | 10:13:51 | jabley | climb | Lord of the Rings | notes | |
|
Before
Bolted by [Kim Carrigan](/climber/534/kim-carrigan) in 1982 this route was ahead of it's time ([Kanal im Rücken](/climb/521/kanal-im-rücken), typically considered to be the first 8b in the world, was only climbed in 1984). Carrigan came tantalisingly close to making the first ascent but it had to wait for [Stefan Glowcaz](/climber/1064/stefan-glowcaz) to finish it off .
Carrigan:
> Yeah, *The Ring Route* aka *Serious Young Lizards* really proved a bridge too far. The astounding thing was, that I'd bolted this route in 1982, long before anyone thought this would even be possible, which meant that I spent a long time learning the moves and developing the strength and fitness needed for a route like this. There was a complete lack of other routes of this difficulty from where this fitness could be gained. Despite being able to climb every move in my sleep, I could never quite bring it together. I still remember my best effort. I'd been shopping in Horsham for the weekly groceries and my fingers were already strained from carrying the shopping bags, but I thought I'll just pop up and give it a go. It had been drizzling, but because the wall was so steep, the route remained basically dry. First shot, I managed to redpoint straight to the last hold, but promptly slipped off mantling onto the wet slab above. That was it.. [1]
The route later featured in a now-famous Patagonia advert when [John Sherman](/climber/731/john-sherman) shot a carefully staged photo of himself seemingly soloing the route in flip flops, beer in hand!
The route got it's name from the ring bolts used to protect it.
### References
[1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/kim_carrigan_and_andy_pollitt-9629](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/kim_carrigan_and_andy_pollitt-9629)
After
Bolted by [Kim Carrigan](/climber/534/kim-carrigan) in 1982 this route was ahead of its time ([Kanal im Rücken](/climb/521/kanal-im-rücken), typically considered to be the first 8b in the world, was only climbed in 1984). Carrigan came tantalisingly close to making the first ascent but it had to wait for [Stefan Glowcaz](/climber/1064/stefan-glowcaz) to finish it off .
Carrigan:
> Yeah, *The Ring Route* aka *Serious Young Lizards* really proved a bridge too far. The astounding thing was, that I'd bolted this route in 1982, long before anyone thought this would even be possible, which meant that I spent a long time learning the moves and developing the strength and fitness needed for a route like this. There was a complete lack of other routes of this difficulty from where this fitness could be gained. Despite being able to climb every move in my sleep, I could never quite bring it together. I still remember my best effort. I'd been shopping in Horsham for the weekly groceries and my fingers were already strained from carrying the shopping bags, but I thought I'll just pop up and give it a go. It had been drizzling, but because the wall was so steep, the route remained basically dry. First shot, I managed to redpoint straight to the last hold, but promptly slipped off mantling onto the wet slab above. That was it.. [1]
The route later featured in a now-famous Patagonia advert when [John Sherman](/climber/731/john-sherman) shot a carefully staged photo of himself seemingly soloing the route in flip flops, beer in hand!
The route got its name from the ring bolts used to protect it.
### References
[1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/kim_carrigan_and_andy_pollitt-9629](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/kim_carrigan_and_andy_pollitt-9629)
Diff
--- before
|
|||||||
| 2 | 16th May 2025 | 10:13:51 | jabley | climb | Lord of the Rings | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<p>Bolted by <a href="/climber/534/kim-carrigan">Kim Carrigan</a> in 1982 this route was ahead of it's time (<a href="/climb/521/kanal-im-rücken">Kanal im Rücken</a>, typically considered to be the first 8b in the world, was only climbed in 1984). Carrigan came tantalisingly close to making the first ascent but it had to wait for <a href="/climber/1064/stefan-glowcaz">Stefan Glowcaz</a> to finish it off .</p>
<p>Carrigan:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Yeah, <em>The Ring Route</em> aka <em>Serious Young Lizards</em> really proved a bridge too far. The astounding thing was, that I'd bolted this route in 1982, long before anyone thought this would even be possible, which meant that I spent a long time learning the moves and developing the strength and fitness needed for a route like this. There was a complete lack of other routes of this difficulty from where this fitness could be gained. Despite being able to climb every move in my sleep, I could never quite bring it together. I still remember my best effort. I'd been shopping in Horsham for the weekly groceries and my fingers were already strained from carrying the shopping bags, but I thought I'll just pop up and give it a go. It had been drizzling, but because the wall was so steep, the route remained basically dry. First shot, I managed to redpoint straight to the last hold, but promptly slipped off mantling onto the wet slab above. That was it.. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>The route later featured in a now-famous Patagonia advert when <a href="/climber/731/john-sherman">John Sherman</a> shot a carefully staged photo of himself seemingly soloing the route in flip flops, beer in hand!</p>
<p>The route got it's name from the ring bolts used to protect it.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/kim_carrigan_and_andy_pollitt-9629">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/kim_carrigan_and_andy_pollitt-9629</a></p>
After
<p>Bolted by <a href="/climber/534/kim-carrigan">Kim Carrigan</a> in 1982 this route was ahead of its time (<a href="/climb/521/kanal-im-rücken">Kanal im Rücken</a>, typically considered to be the first 8b in the world, was only climbed in 1984). Carrigan came tantalisingly close to making the first ascent but it had to wait for <a href="/climber/1064/stefan-glowcaz">Stefan Glowcaz</a> to finish it off .</p>
<p>Carrigan:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Yeah, <em>The Ring Route</em> aka <em>Serious Young Lizards</em> really proved a bridge too far. The astounding thing was, that I'd bolted this route in 1982, long before anyone thought this would even be possible, which meant that I spent a long time learning the moves and developing the strength and fitness needed for a route like this. There was a complete lack of other routes of this difficulty from where this fitness could be gained. Despite being able to climb every move in my sleep, I could never quite bring it together. I still remember my best effort. I'd been shopping in Horsham for the weekly groceries and my fingers were already strained from carrying the shopping bags, but I thought I'll just pop up and give it a go. It had been drizzling, but because the wall was so steep, the route remained basically dry. First shot, I managed to redpoint straight to the last hold, but promptly slipped off mantling onto the wet slab above. That was it.. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>The route later featured in a now-famous Patagonia advert when <a href="/climber/731/john-sherman">John Sherman</a> shot a carefully staged photo of himself seemingly soloing the route in flip flops, beer in hand!</p>
<p>The route got its name from the ring bolts used to protect it.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/kim_carrigan_and_andy_pollitt-9629">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/kim_carrigan_and_andy_pollitt-9629</a></p>
|
|||||||
| 3 | 16th May 2025 | 10:12:17 | jabley | climber | Tyler Landman | notes | |
|
Before
Tyler Landman is considered by many as one of the greatest British boulderers of all time, and at one point one of the worlds best. Ty has displayed excellent ability from a young age with him impressively repeating [Voyager](/climb/174/voyager) (8B), [The Ace](/climb/157/the-ace) (8B) and [Dreamtime (pre break)](/climb/138/dreamtime-(pre-break)) (8B+) at 17!
The following year he repeated the legendary [Jade](/climb/507/jade) (8B+) and [Ode to the Modern Man](/climb/3907/ode-to-the-modern-man) (8B+). Over the next year he would repeat serval hard boulders including [Practice of the Wild](/climb/113/practice-of-the-wild) (8B+), [New Base Line](/climb/123/new-base-line) (8B+) and [Radja](/climb/1159/radja) (8B+).
In February of 2009 Ty went to Fontainebleau to film the legendary Between The Trees, in which he ascended multiple hard boulder, but most notably [Satan i Helvete Assis (Pre December 2013)](/climb/705/satan-i-helvete-assis-(pre-december-2013)) (8C). He was also the 2017 British Bouldering Champion.
Interestingly with Ty despite being at the top of the global bouldering world his focused switched to that of a career as a doctor. In 2024 Ty achieved this goal graduating as a doctor in America.
### References
[1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/outspoken_-_tyler_landman-13258](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/outspoken_-_tyler_landman-13258)
[2] [https://soundcloud.com/user-569917310/outspoken-tyler-landman](https://soundcloud.com/user-569917310/outspoken-tyler-landman)
After
Tyler Landman is considered by many as one of the greatest British boulderers of all time, and at one point one of the worlds best. Ty has displayed excellent ability from a young age with him impressively repeating [Voyager](/climb/174/voyager) (8B), [The Ace](/climb/157/the-ace) (8B) and [Dreamtime (pre break)](/climb/138/dreamtime-(pre-break)) (8B+) at 17!
The following year he repeated the legendary [Jade](/climb/507/jade) (8B+) and [Ode to the Modern Man](/climb/3907/ode-to-the-modern-man) (8B+). Over the next year he would repeat serval hard boulders including [Practice of the Wild](/climb/113/practice-of-the-wild) (8B+), [New Base Line](/climb/123/new-base-line) (8B+) and [Radja](/climb/1159/radja) (8B+).
In February of 2009 Ty went to Fontainebleau to film the legendary Between The Trees, in which he ascended multiple hard boulders, but most notably [Satan i Helvete Assis (Pre December 2013)](/climb/705/satan-i-helvete-assis-(pre-december-2013)) (8C). He was also the 2017 British Bouldering Champion.
Interestingly with Ty despite being at the top of the global bouldering world his focused switched to that of a career as a doctor. In 2024 Ty achieved this goal graduating as a doctor in America.
### References
[1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/outspoken_-_tyler_landman-13258](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/outspoken_-_tyler_landman-13258)
[2] [https://soundcloud.com/user-569917310/outspoken-tyler-landman](https://soundcloud.com/user-569917310/outspoken-tyler-landman)
Diff
--- before
|
|||||||
| 4 | 16th May 2025 | 10:12:17 | jabley | climber | Tyler Landman | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<p>Tyler Landman is considered by many as one of the greatest British boulderers of all time, and at one point one of the worlds best. Ty has displayed excellent ability from a young age with him impressively repeating <a href="/climb/174/voyager">Voyager</a> (8B), <a href="/climb/157/the-ace">The Ace</a> (8B) and <a href="/climb/138/dreamtime-(pre-break)">Dreamtime (pre break)</a> (8B+) at 17! </p>
<p>The following year he repeated the legendary <a href="/climb/507/jade">Jade</a> (8B+) and <a href="/climb/3907/ode-to-the-modern-man">Ode to the Modern Man</a> (8B+). Over the next year he would repeat serval hard boulders including <a href="/climb/113/practice-of-the-wild">Practice of the Wild</a> (8B+), <a href="/climb/123/new-base-line">New Base Line</a> (8B+) and <a href="/climb/1159/radja">Radja</a> (8B+). </p>
<p>In February of 2009 Ty went to Fontainebleau to film the legendary Between The Trees, in which he ascended multiple hard boulder, but most notably <a href="/climb/705/satan-i-helvete-assis-(pre-december-2013)">Satan i Helvete Assis (Pre December 2013)</a> (8C). He was also the 2017 British Bouldering Champion.</p>
<p>Interestingly with Ty despite being at the top of the global bouldering world his focused switched to that of a career as a doctor. In 2024 Ty achieved this goal graduating as a doctor in America.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/outspoken_-_tyler_landman-13258">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/outspoken_-_tyler_landman-13258</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://soundcloud.com/user-569917310/outspoken-tyler-landman">https://soundcloud.com/user-569917310/outspoken-tyler-landman</a></p>
After
<p>Tyler Landman is considered by many as one of the greatest British boulderers of all time, and at one point one of the worlds best. Ty has displayed excellent ability from a young age with him impressively repeating <a href="/climb/174/voyager">Voyager</a> (8B), <a href="/climb/157/the-ace">The Ace</a> (8B) and <a href="/climb/138/dreamtime-(pre-break)">Dreamtime (pre break)</a> (8B+) at 17! </p>
<p>The following year he repeated the legendary <a href="/climb/507/jade">Jade</a> (8B+) and <a href="/climb/3907/ode-to-the-modern-man">Ode to the Modern Man</a> (8B+). Over the next year he would repeat serval hard boulders including <a href="/climb/113/practice-of-the-wild">Practice of the Wild</a> (8B+), <a href="/climb/123/new-base-line">New Base Line</a> (8B+) and <a href="/climb/1159/radja">Radja</a> (8B+). </p>
<p>In February of 2009 Ty went to Fontainebleau to film the legendary Between The Trees, in which he ascended multiple hard boulders, but most notably <a href="/climb/705/satan-i-helvete-assis-(pre-december-2013)">Satan i Helvete Assis (Pre December 2013)</a> (8C). He was also the 2017 British Bouldering Champion.</p>
<p>Interestingly with Ty despite being at the top of the global bouldering world his focused switched to that of a career as a doctor. In 2024 Ty achieved this goal graduating as a doctor in America.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/outspoken_-_tyler_landman-13258">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/outspoken_-_tyler_landman-13258</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://soundcloud.com/user-569917310/outspoken-tyler-landman">https://soundcloud.com/user-569917310/outspoken-tyler-landman</a></p>
|
|||||||
| 5 | 16th May 2025 | 10:11:50 | jabley | climber | Tyler Landman | notes | |
|
Before
Tyler Landman is considered by many as one of the greatest British boulderers of all time, and at one point one of the worlds best. Ty has displayed excellent ability from a young age with him impressively repeating [Voyager](/climb/174/voyager) (8B), [The Ace](/climb/157/the-ace) (8B) and [Dreamtime (pre break)](/climb/138/dreamtime-(pre-break)) (8B+) at 17!
The following year he repeated the legendary [Jade](/climb/507/jade) (8B+) and [Ode to the Modern Man](/climb/3907/ode-to-the-modern-man) (8B+). Over the next year he would repeat serval hard boulders including [Practice of the Wild](/climb/113/practice-of-the-wild) (8B+), [New Base Line](/climb/123/new-base-line) (8B+) and [Radja](/climb/1159/radja) (8B+).
In February of 2009 Ty went to Fontainebleau to film the legendary Between The Trees, in which he accented multiple hard boulder, but most notably [Satan i Helvete Assis (Pre December 2013)](/climb/705/satan-i-helvete-assis-(pre-december-2013)) (8C). He was also the 2017 British Bouldering Champion.
Interestingly with Ty despite being at the top of the global bouldering world his focused switched to that of a career as a doctor. In 2024 Ty achieved this goal graduating as a doctor in America.
### References
[1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/outspoken_-_tyler_landman-13258](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/outspoken_-_tyler_landman-13258)
[2] [https://soundcloud.com/user-569917310/outspoken-tyler-landman](https://soundcloud.com/user-569917310/outspoken-tyler-landman)
After
Tyler Landman is considered by many as one of the greatest British boulderers of all time, and at one point one of the worlds best. Ty has displayed excellent ability from a young age with him impressively repeating [Voyager](/climb/174/voyager) (8B), [The Ace](/climb/157/the-ace) (8B) and [Dreamtime (pre break)](/climb/138/dreamtime-(pre-break)) (8B+) at 17!
The following year he repeated the legendary [Jade](/climb/507/jade) (8B+) and [Ode to the Modern Man](/climb/3907/ode-to-the-modern-man) (8B+). Over the next year he would repeat serval hard boulders including [Practice of the Wild](/climb/113/practice-of-the-wild) (8B+), [New Base Line](/climb/123/new-base-line) (8B+) and [Radja](/climb/1159/radja) (8B+).
In February of 2009 Ty went to Fontainebleau to film the legendary Between The Trees, in which he ascended multiple hard boulder, but most notably [Satan i Helvete Assis (Pre December 2013)](/climb/705/satan-i-helvete-assis-(pre-december-2013)) (8C). He was also the 2017 British Bouldering Champion.
Interestingly with Ty despite being at the top of the global bouldering world his focused switched to that of a career as a doctor. In 2024 Ty achieved this goal graduating as a doctor in America.
### References
[1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/outspoken_-_tyler_landman-13258](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/outspoken_-_tyler_landman-13258)
[2] [https://soundcloud.com/user-569917310/outspoken-tyler-landman](https://soundcloud.com/user-569917310/outspoken-tyler-landman)
Diff
--- before
|
|||||||
| 6 | 16th May 2025 | 10:11:50 | jabley | climber | Tyler Landman | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<p>Tyler Landman is considered by many as one of the greatest British boulderers of all time, and at one point one of the worlds best. Ty has displayed excellent ability from a young age with him impressively repeating <a href="/climb/174/voyager">Voyager</a> (8B), <a href="/climb/157/the-ace">The Ace</a> (8B) and <a href="/climb/138/dreamtime-(pre-break)">Dreamtime (pre break)</a> (8B+) at 17! </p>
<p>The following year he repeated the legendary <a href="/climb/507/jade">Jade</a> (8B+) and <a href="/climb/3907/ode-to-the-modern-man">Ode to the Modern Man</a> (8B+). Over the next year he would repeat serval hard boulders including <a href="/climb/113/practice-of-the-wild">Practice of the Wild</a> (8B+), <a href="/climb/123/new-base-line">New Base Line</a> (8B+) and <a href="/climb/1159/radja">Radja</a> (8B+). </p>
<p>In February of 2009 Ty went to Fontainebleau to film the legendary Between The Trees, in which he accented multiple hard boulder, but most notably <a href="/climb/705/satan-i-helvete-assis-(pre-december-2013)">Satan i Helvete Assis (Pre December 2013)</a> (8C). He was also the 2017 British Bouldering Champion.</p>
<p>Interestingly with Ty despite being at the top of the global bouldering world his focused switched to that of a career as a doctor. In 2024 Ty achieved this goal graduating as a doctor in America.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/outspoken_-_tyler_landman-13258">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/outspoken_-_tyler_landman-13258</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://soundcloud.com/user-569917310/outspoken-tyler-landman">https://soundcloud.com/user-569917310/outspoken-tyler-landman</a></p>
After
<p>Tyler Landman is considered by many as one of the greatest British boulderers of all time, and at one point one of the worlds best. Ty has displayed excellent ability from a young age with him impressively repeating <a href="/climb/174/voyager">Voyager</a> (8B), <a href="/climb/157/the-ace">The Ace</a> (8B) and <a href="/climb/138/dreamtime-(pre-break)">Dreamtime (pre break)</a> (8B+) at 17! </p>
<p>The following year he repeated the legendary <a href="/climb/507/jade">Jade</a> (8B+) and <a href="/climb/3907/ode-to-the-modern-man">Ode to the Modern Man</a> (8B+). Over the next year he would repeat serval hard boulders including <a href="/climb/113/practice-of-the-wild">Practice of the Wild</a> (8B+), <a href="/climb/123/new-base-line">New Base Line</a> (8B+) and <a href="/climb/1159/radja">Radja</a> (8B+). </p>
<p>In February of 2009 Ty went to Fontainebleau to film the legendary Between The Trees, in which he ascended multiple hard boulder, but most notably <a href="/climb/705/satan-i-helvete-assis-(pre-december-2013)">Satan i Helvete Assis (Pre December 2013)</a> (8C). He was also the 2017 British Bouldering Champion.</p>
<p>Interestingly with Ty despite being at the top of the global bouldering world his focused switched to that of a career as a doctor. In 2024 Ty achieved this goal graduating as a doctor in America.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/outspoken_-_tyler_landman-13258">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/outspoken_-_tyler_landman-13258</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://soundcloud.com/user-569917310/outspoken-tyler-landman">https://soundcloud.com/user-569917310/outspoken-tyler-landman</a></p>
|
|||||||
| 7 | 5th February 2025 | 12:46:39 | jabley | climb | The Dark Side | notes | |
|
Before
First ascetionist [Carlo Traversi](/climber/770/carlo-traversi) describes the problem:
> The Dark Side has a V9 intro into a sustained V15, and those intro moves change the setup for the crux. All told, it is 17 moves from start to lip.
> It starts off on a jug rail, an actual jug! The feature continues and it becomes a slopey—but good—hold for your right hand, and then you get these two really, really bad crimps: the crux holds. The left hand is the one that you spend the most time on, and there’s a crystal that goes right into your index pad, that’s the one that splits. You load the left hand, and basically put all your weight on it to reset your feet. Then you do a big lock off and enter the sloper-rail section.
> The sloper rail is really bad. One of the worst slopers I’ve ever grabbed, for sure. You shuffle along this rail for eight or nine hand movements. It really feels like you’re hangboarding on the Beastmaker 2000 45-degree sloper. Then you get into this crimp rail, which is better than the crimps at the beginning but still very thin. That puts you into a high gaston, and then one last big lock off to a hold that is basically the end of The Force, which comes in from the right.
> The Dark Side is weird for a hard problem. I’ve never seen a problem that is V15 or harder that looks like it. It either looks impossible without chalk on it, or it looks kind of chill when it’s chalked up. [1]
### References
[1] [https://www.climbing.com/news/carlo-traversi-on-establishing-yosemites-hardest-boulder](https://www.climbing.com/news/carlo-traversi-on-establishing-yosemites-hardest-boulder)
After
First ascentionist [Carlo Traversi](/climber/770/carlo-traversi) describes the problem:
> The Dark Side has a V9 intro into a sustained V15, and those intro moves change the setup for the crux. All told, it is 17 moves from start to lip.
> It starts off on a jug rail, an actual jug! The feature continues and it becomes a slopey—but good—hold for your right hand, and then you get these two really, really bad crimps: the crux holds. The left hand is the one that you spend the most time on, and there’s a crystal that goes right into your index pad, that’s the one that splits. You load the left hand, and basically put all your weight on it to reset your feet. Then you do a big lock off and enter the sloper-rail section.
> The sloper rail is really bad. One of the worst slopers I’ve ever grabbed, for sure. You shuffle along this rail for eight or nine hand movements. It really feels like you’re hangboarding on the Beastmaker 2000 45-degree sloper. Then you get into this crimp rail, which is better than the crimps at the beginning but still very thin. That puts you into a high gaston, and then one last big lock off to a hold that is basically the end of The Force, which comes in from the right.
> The Dark Side is weird for a hard problem. I’ve never seen a problem that is V15 or harder that looks like it. It either looks impossible without chalk on it, or it looks kind of chill when it’s chalked up. [1]
### References
[1] [https://www.climbing.com/news/carlo-traversi-on-establishing-yosemites-hardest-boulder](https://www.climbing.com/news/carlo-traversi-on-establishing-yosemites-hardest-boulder)
Diff
--- before
|
|||||||
| 8 | 5th February 2025 | 12:46:39 | jabley | climb | The Dark Side | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<p>First ascetionist <a href="/climber/770/carlo-traversi">Carlo Traversi</a> describes the problem:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The Dark Side has a V9 intro into a sustained V15, and those intro moves change the setup for the crux. All told, it is 17 moves from start to lip.</p>
<p>It starts off on a jug rail, an actual jug! The feature continues and it becomes a slopey—but good—hold for your right hand, and then you get these two really, really bad crimps: the crux holds. The left hand is the one that you spend the most time on, and there’s a crystal that goes right into your index pad, that’s the one that splits. You load the left hand, and basically put all your weight on it to reset your feet. Then you do a big lock off and enter the sloper-rail section. </p>
<p>The sloper rail is really bad. One of the worst slopers I’ve ever grabbed, for sure. You shuffle along this rail for eight or nine hand movements. It really feels like you’re hangboarding on the Beastmaker 2000 45-degree sloper. Then you get into this crimp rail, which is better than the crimps at the beginning but still very thin. That puts you into a high gaston, and then one last big lock off to a hold that is basically the end of The Force, which comes in from the right.</p>
<p>The Dark Side is weird for a hard problem. I’ve never seen a problem that is V15 or harder that looks like it. It either looks impossible without chalk on it, or it looks kind of chill when it’s chalked up. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.climbing.com/news/carlo-traversi-on-establishing-yosemites-hardest-boulder">https://www.climbing.com/news/carlo-traversi-on-establishing-yosemites-hardest-boulder</a></p>
After
<p>First ascentionist <a href="/climber/770/carlo-traversi">Carlo Traversi</a> describes the problem:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The Dark Side has a V9 intro into a sustained V15, and those intro moves change the setup for the crux. All told, it is 17 moves from start to lip.</p>
<p>It starts off on a jug rail, an actual jug! The feature continues and it becomes a slopey—but good—hold for your right hand, and then you get these two really, really bad crimps: the crux holds. The left hand is the one that you spend the most time on, and there’s a crystal that goes right into your index pad, that’s the one that splits. You load the left hand, and basically put all your weight on it to reset your feet. Then you do a big lock off and enter the sloper-rail section. </p>
<p>The sloper rail is really bad. One of the worst slopers I’ve ever grabbed, for sure. You shuffle along this rail for eight or nine hand movements. It really feels like you’re hangboarding on the Beastmaker 2000 45-degree sloper. Then you get into this crimp rail, which is better than the crimps at the beginning but still very thin. That puts you into a high gaston, and then one last big lock off to a hold that is basically the end of The Force, which comes in from the right.</p>
<p>The Dark Side is weird for a hard problem. I’ve never seen a problem that is V15 or harder that looks like it. It either looks impossible without chalk on it, or it looks kind of chill when it’s chalked up. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.climbing.com/news/carlo-traversi-on-establishing-yosemites-hardest-boulder">https://www.climbing.com/news/carlo-traversi-on-establishing-yosemites-hardest-boulder</a></p>
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