Climbs

Climb Name Type Grade # Ascents Recorded Notes Exclude Reason
Le Minimum Sport route 8b+ 5

Fourth 8b+ in the world, but an important foot hold for the crux move has broken. Before the break it was probably a solid 8b+, but for modern ascentionists it may be more 8c

Leoline Extension Sport route 8c+ 5
Le Sens de la Fête Boulder problem 8B+ 5
Le Spectre du Sur-Mutant Sport route 8b+ 5
Le Toit de Ben Trad climb E7 5

References

[1] https://gripped.com/news/the-story-of-an-iconic-canadian-roof-crack/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AgLu8_fEaR0

L'Extremacura Sport route 8c 5
Liberator Trad climb E5 5
Linden Trad climb E6 5
L'Insoutenable Légèreté de L'Autre Boulder problem 8B 5
Longhope Route Direct Trad climb E9 5

Initially climbed as an audacious multi-day aid ascent by Ed Drummond and Oliver Hill in 1970. John Arran and Dave Turnbull then free climbed a variation on the line which then became known as Longhope Route. Dave MacLeod then straightened out the free line to something closer to the original aid line by climbing a very hard pitch up a thin crack line that was originally aided.

Loskot and Two Smoking Barrels Deep water solo 8a+ 5
Lost Arrow Chimney Trad climb E3 5

5.10a

Luftig kö till nålens öga Boulder problem 8B+ 5
Lurking Fear Trad climb E9 5

References

[1] https://www.climbing.com/places/how-hard-can-slab-climbs-actually-get/

Mandala Direct SDS Boulder problem 8B+ 5
Master of Stone Boulder problem 8B 5
Meadowlark Lemon Stand Boulder problem 8A+ 5
Megalopa Sport route 8c+ 5

Neil Dyer and Pete Robins battled it out for the first ascent with Robins eventually grabbing the FA.

Megatron Boulder problem 9A 5

Previously tried by Daniel Woods before Shawn Raboutou made the first ascent. Also tried extensively by Drew Ruana who, at the time of writing, had put 75 sessions in to it.

Drew Ruana:

To me it breaks down into a 8 move v15/16 that’s on nasty crimps and underclings that feel like they’re gonna rip your pulley. There’s one right hand throw move to where the 14 starts that’s one of the hardest moves I’ve ever done and you basically have to climb v13/14 into a hard v12+ single move. Then do a bunch of foot moves and weird cut to establish on the 14. From there the 14 stand is guarding the top- you’ve already done a fucked up hard boulder (took me more days to link the sit than any other v15 and most v16s have taken me) into a nasty series undercling thrutches with bad feet. The 14 is wireable but having the energy to own those underclings at the end of basically climbing v17 is hard. To me this felt like a solid step up from rotsw [Return of the Sleepwalker], if rotsw had 1-2 more crux moves it’d be comparable I think. [1]

The problem was discovered by Chad Greedy. He gave it the working name partly after his pet chameleon, Megatron, who died shortly after he found the problem. [4]

References

[1] https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/yw2uct/comment/iwi7mfx/

Mejorando Imagen Sport route 9a+ 5

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