Climbs

Climb Name Type Grade # Ascents Recorded Notes Exclude Reason
The Process Boulder problem 8C+ 5

Adds an 8B on top of Blood Meridian before a spicy 7C+ sequence at ~20ft to gain the slab.

Since the first ascent the problem has broken a couple of times and has been glued back together both times.
The Prow Boulder problem 8A 5

There is some variation in the line taken by each of the ascenionists so far. Andy Earl climbed a line very close to the arete, Dan Varian and Will Bosi ended up slightly more on the right face at the top and Franco Cookson moved on to the right hand face earlier still, avoiding a couple of moves up the prow [1]. Franco amusingly named his variation Varian the Librarian.

Regarding the grade, Andy Earl didn't offer a grade and Steve Crowe wrote it up for the guidebook as E9 7a. It is now more commonly climbed above a big pile of pads at ~8A.

References

[1] Franco Cookson discusses the controversy around the line on UKClimbing.com, 9th Feb 2022 https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/opinions/the_blurry_line_-_when_does_a_sequence_become_a_line-14240

[2] On The Edge 128, page 18
The Regular North Face Trad climb E4 5
The Saifa Boulder problem 8B+ 5
The Shaft Trad climb E8 5

Free version of Muir Wall with some variations in line including final pitches of The Shield.
The Shining Boulder problem 8B 5
The Thrilla in Manilla Boulder problem 8B 5
The Very Big and the Very Small Sport route 8b+ 5

A slab materpiece.

Nick Harms:

This was originally my project. I'd spent a while working on it, eventually doing it with one fall. I had a bunch of projects on the go, some of which were bolted, others just in my head. I got mightily fed up with it, I couldn't get the right shoes, was fed up with the weather and seeing as almost everyone had lost interest in the quarries it was incredibly difficult to get anyone to come up and belay, so in the end I let Johnny do it. I've regretted it ever since. [1]

References

[1] Llanberis Slate. United Kingdom: Ground Up, 2011.
The Waterman Boulder problem 8B 5
Thriller Boulder problem 7C+ 5
Tierra Negra Sport route 9a 5
Tiger Style Boulder problem 8B 5
Tolerance Trad climb E8 5
To Your Scattered Bodies Go Boulder problem 8B+ 5
Transform Sport route 8c 5
Trench Warfare Trad climb E7 5

A monster off-width roof crack. A bit of a strange one in that after 60’ of roof wrestling across a cavern you can just step off, as first ascensionist Jonny Woodward did.

Brad Jackson was first to turn the lip, calling the harder variation Wench Warfare, 5.13.

More recently, nets have been rigged underneath the crack to protect solo ascents, transforming the climb into a boulder problem.

Trip Hop Boulder problem 8C 5
Tristesse Boulder problem 7C 5
Tuppence Sport route 8b 5
Ubik Boulder problem 8A 5

For a many years a campus power testpiece at 8A+, a toehook was discovered in the early 2020s, reducing the difficulty.

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