The Prow | 8A Boulder problem at Kyloe-In-The-Woods

There is some variation in the line taken by each of the ascenionists so far. Andy Earl climbed a line very close to the arete, Dan Varian and Will Bosi ended up slightly more on the right face at the top and Franco Cookson moved on to the right hand face earlier still avoiding a couple of moves up the prow. [1]

Regarding the grade, Andy Earl didn't offer a grade and Steve Crowe wrote it up for the guidebook as E9 7a. It is now more commonly climbed above a big pile of pads at ~8A.

References

[1] Franco Cookson discusses the controversy around the line on UKClimbing.com, 9th Feb 2022 https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/opinions/the_blurry_line_-_when_does_a_sequence_become_a_line-14240


Pics + Vids

Andy Earl
View this post on Instagram

Added at 22:02 on 05 February 2022
Dan Varian
Added at 17:02 on 05 February 2022
Ned Feehally
Added at 10:02 on 09 February 2022
Will Bosi
View this post on Instagram

Added at 17:02 on 05 February 2022
Franco Cookson
View this post on Instagram

Added at 17:02 on 05 February 2022
Franco Cookson
Added at 20:02 on 05 February 2022

Ascents

5 recorded ascents.

Climber Style FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Andy Earl Solo (Worked)

https://www.instagram.com/p/CZm-RF6gIiW/

Ned Feehally Boulder (Worked) 01 Nov 2011 (approx)

Third ascent.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/11/dan_and_ned_-_the_prow_e9_and_black_triage-64897

https://vimeo.com/116871088#t=480s

Dan Varian Boulder (Worked) 01 Nov 2011 (approx)

Second ascent.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/11/dan_and_ned_-_the_prow_e9_and_black_triage-64897

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=meYWJdX-qhQ

Will Bosi Boulder (Worked) 30 Jul 2017

https://www.instagram.com/p/BXKjb9tg7IU/

Franco Cookson Boulder (Worked) 04 Feb 2022

Unlike with the Young, which was a ground up 'in the first degree' (ie no ab), I cheated a bit on this one and went for the ab inspection, as the right wall needed a proper clean and I couldn't be bothered trying to get someone else to clean it (they always clean the wrong bits 😂). I'm glad I did, as it made the top moves more enjoyable and, as I also hadn't watched a video of anyone else doing it for ages, I inadvertently found a better sequence for me, taking the crux hold with my left, rather than right, avoiding some of the overhang and getting to use a load of monos! Happy days! 😁😁😁 Unfortunately the sequence I'd spied on ab didn't work as a foothold broke as soon as I tried it. But with a bit more creativity, one failed attempt at a jump, and some extreme human pyramid brushing, some new beta was found.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CZly0-styzY/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LeN-7D4Se4I