All climbs

While working the problem Charles Albert found a more direct alternative sequence. His sequence is reliant on using a pocket with your toe, so it is generally considered as a separate problem Le Pied à Coulisse (Direct).

Originally 8B+, a contender for the first of the grade in the Forest. After a hold broke it became 8B.

Named after the book The unbearable lightness of being by Milan Kundera [1].

References

[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Unbearable_Lightness_of_Being

First 8b route in Norway.

One of the first sport routes in the UK to be climbed in 'red point' style, where the moves were practised before the final ascent. Prior to this routes were more typically climbed onsight or in yoyo style where pre-practicing the moves wasn't allowed.

Originally given E7 7a. Early on the lip of a pocket on the route fell off making the route harder. Jerry Moffatt attempted to repair the hold but the repair quickly failed. Jerry re-climbed it with the pocket in the worse state. Around the same time Mark Pretty also applied some sika to the back of the pocket to try and reduce seepage.

Rhapsody is a trad route at Dumbarton Rock in Scotland first climbed by Dave MacLeod in 2006. It was the hardest trad route in the world at the time and maintains a substantial reputation, featuring 8c+ climbing, and potential for huge falls onto tiny gear from the 8A crux at the top of the route.

The route starts by climbing the majority of Requiem (around 7c+ to here) to a poor rest before an intensely technical sequence up the headwall above. The line is somewhat eliminate at the top, forcing a line of maximum difficulty to the very top of the crag rather than reaching out to an arête. [2]

The route has become a test piece for sport climbers who want to test their mettle, with repeats coming from an international cohort.

Around the time that he made the second ascent, Sonnie Trotter also added a variation called Direquiem which takes the headwall but finishes left, rather than going to the highest point of the crag.

References

[1] E11 2006 film by Paul Diffley

[2] https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2008/12/home-in-winter-wonderland.html

A left hand finish to Pegasus.

~8a+ on ok-ish gear.

Originally given 8c/+ repeat ascenionists then suggested 8c+. Around 2018/2019 some holds broke on the crux and it is now considered more 9a.