Trad climbs

The route takes the sole weakness in one of the UK's largest sweeps of granite.

John Dunne:

I was stunned at the scale and quality of the wall and it is a fantastic piece of rock, technical and bold with the huge flake feature on the main pitch. The route is awesome and world class.

John's first ascent was not without controversy, as Dave MacLeod made a competing claim at around the same time, having found the top pitch dirty and unchalked.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/05/mchaffie_and_dunne_on_the_great_escape-70475

There is some confuision around whether Alex Sharpe and Brian Hall or John Allen and Steve Bancroft made the first free ascent in 1974.

Free version of Muir Wall with some variations in line including final pitches of The Shield.

A monster off-width roof crack. A bit of a strange one in that after 60’ of roof wrestling across a cavern you can just step off, as first ascensionist Jonny Woodward did.

Brad Jackson was first to turn the lip, calling the harder variation Wench Warfare, 5.13.

More recently, nets have been rigged underneath the crack to protect solo ascents, transforming the climb into a boulder problem.

E6 6b/c, 1a, 5a. The free climb of London monument Nelson's Column. Pitch 3 climbs the column itself, an endurance pinch-fest said to be the crux.

The column was first aid climbed by Ed Drummond in 1978.

Named after a comment by Johnny Woodward after a top rope ascent:

Undoubtedly the hardest piece of climbing on the roaches. It has three desperate moves involving an unlikely toe-jam, a weird high sort of bridge and an all-out crystal move. There are no runners and a fall would land you in a holly tree. It will take me quite some time to pluck up the courage to lead it!

Takes the soaring arete to the left of Longhope Route. Not many routes compare.

Start on the left-hand side of the grass slope at the base of the cliff. Climb grass to a tangle of ropes beneath the centre of the upper wall. Belay at the top of a rope hanging down a rock wall (l44m). Climb a slabby wall trending right to a ledge then back left to grassy ledges level with the base of the 4b chimney on Longhope Route (45m, 5b). Traverse horizontally left for 22m and climb up and back slightly right for 23m to a stance below the prominent overhanging flake crack leading up left to the arete (45m, 4c). Climb to a ledge at the start of the flake crack (23m, 4c). Layback the overhanging flake and struggle sensationally up the upper flake to a small corner ledge (26m, 5c). Continue in the same line up the corner to a ledge on the arete beneath a prominent overhang (16m, 5b). Trend leftwards round the overhang and follow a vague fault line to a ledge after 29m. Move right along this to the arete, sur­mount an overhang, and gain a ledge (38m, 5b). Climb a difficult but well protected crack on the right-hand side of the arete to a ledge. Traverse this round to the left side of the arete to belay where two large block5 have dropped from the overhang above about 12m left of the arete (29m, 6a). Pull over the overhang and climb direct for 6m to a traverse crack. Follow this rightwards to a ledge just left of the arete. Move up via two dubious undercut flakes and use a very poor peg in a poorly protected position to gain a ledge (32m, 5c). Climb a delicate wall on the left to gain a shallow groove leading to a ledge. Climb the short chimney above to a further ledge and belay below an over hang on the left (32m, 5b). Surmount the overhang in the fault line, easier to the top (27m).

Descent was by grassy slopes and a short rock step about 400m north of St John's Head, i.e. the other way from the Old Man. [1]

References

[1] Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal 180 1989