Regular Northwest Face | HVS Trad climb on Half Dome

United States / California / Mariposa County

Contributors
duncancritchley
68 contributions since 15th July 2025.
remus
21 contributions since 30th November 2023.

Pics + Vids

No pics or vids yet.


Ascents

7 successful ascents recorded.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade

The first grade VI climb in North America.

First female ascent of a Grade VI route in North America.

References

[1] https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200511300

With Art Higbee. Nearly free ascent: established the free variations to the lower pitches and climbed the Zig-Zags all free but was stymied by a short section on the penultimate slab pitch. Erickson top-roped and bolted a free variation to this pitch in the fall of 1976 but did not lead it.

Higbee's solution to the Zig-Zags is now graded 5.12d/13a and their nearly free route had some of the hardest climbing in the world at the time.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=brBvkOPDCQI

[2] https://enormocast.com/2024/12/enormocast-298-jim-erickson-clean-and-free/

References

[1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.

Coyne led all the hard pitches at "5.12". With Dennis Jackson and Doug Lorimer who did not free the whole route.

References

[1] https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1980_files/AJ%201980%20228-231%20Echevarria%20S%20America.pdf

First free solo ascent, via the usual Huber variation to the Zig-Zags (5.12a).

References

[1] https://www.climbing.com/news/honnold-free-solos-half-domes-nw-face-2