The Nose | A2 Multi-pitch on El Capitan

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A huge multi-season ascent which involved numerous partners, lots of fixed gear and an incredible final 15 hour push through the night to complete the route.

Initially the team compromised Harding, Mark Powell and Bill Feuerer but when work resumed on the route in the autumn season Powell and Feuerer dropped out while Wayne Merry, George Whitmore, and Rich Calderwood joined the main team.

[Chris Jones, interviewing] The first ascent of the South Buttress of El Cap - the Nose - has been described, but is it true that you started this because you had been beaten by Robbins and party on the North Face of Half Dome?

Yes, it is true. The previous Fall, I was a member of the party that made the first serious attempt on the North West Face of Half Dome. I was not particularly impressed with the leader of this group (not Robbins), so I decided to form a party of my own. This turned out to be a truly splendid team: Powell, Harding, Dolt. However, when we reached the Valley in mid-June, we were taken aback and rather disgruntled to find that an excellent team of climbers, now led by Royal Robbins, had the matter of Half Dome North West Face well in hand.

In a fit of egotistical pique, we grumbled around the Valley for a couple of days, trying to figure out what to do. The solution was quite simple: any climb less than Half Dome was beneath us; only a greater climb would do 1 Our objective was rather obvious!

It soon became obvious, too, that we were getting in over our heads with the difficulties presented by El Cap. [1]

References

[1] Mountain 9 (1970), page 16

The second ascent, and first continuous ascent over 7 days.

The second ascent, and first continuous ascent over 7 days.

The second ascent, and first continuous ascent over 7 days.

The second ascent, and first continuous ascent over 7 days.

Third ascent, in three and a half days.

Steve, get to the Valley soon. You, Glen and I must do The Nose this Spring. I've never felt sure if I was up to it or not before but I am now. I'm ready for anything (Layton Kor to Steve Roper, 2nd February 1963)

References

[1] Kor, L (2013) Beyond the Vertical (2nd Ed.) USA: Falcon Guides p116

3 day ascent, the fastest known time.

3 day ascent

A fast ascent, free climbing sections up to 5.11

First hammerless ascent: passive gear only as predated spring-loaded cams such as Friends.

(Chouinard) put the first nut in and looked down. “You know, I’ve never really stood on one of these before.” My heart sank. He stepped up, and the nut sank—about a quarter inch. My heart shrivelled up totally. Who was this guy? I had never climbed with him before, but he was supposed to know something about nuts.

References

[1] https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197405800

First hammerless ascent.

The first ascent of the Nose in a day. A significant improvement on the multi-day ascents that had previously been required.

Some gear was pre-placed on the first few pitches to help them climb faster in the dark. [1]

References

[1] https://www.climbing.com/people/cleaning-up-climbing-history/

The first ascent of the Nose in a day. A significant improvement on the multi-day ascents that had previously been required.

Some gear was pre-placed on the first few pitches to help them climb faster in the dark. [1]

References

[1] https://www.climbing.com/people/cleaning-up-climbing-history/

The first ascent of the Nose in a day. A significant improvement on the multi-day ascents that had previously been required.

Some gear was pre-placed on the first few pitches to help them climb faster in the dark. [1]

References

[1] https://www.climbing.com/people/cleaning-up-climbing-history/

A speed record.

Graham Hoey:

During this period he also proved his worth on big walls with a phenomenal (non-jumared) ascent in 1981 of The Nose on El Capitan with Simon Horrox in a day. Between them they lead and seconded every pitch; the first time this had ever been achieved, the locals were amazed.

John's one-day ascent started from the top of fixed ropes to Sickle Ledge, a common tactic at the time, still a very impressive ascent.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_day_the_music_died_-_remembering_john_allen-12803

[2] Graham Hoey, personal communication.

Graham Hoey:

During this period [John Allen] also proved his worth on big walls with a phenomenal (non-jumared) ascent in 1981 of The Nose on El Capitan with Simon Horrox in a day. Between them they lead and seconded every pitch; the first time this had ever been achieved, the locals were amazed.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_day_the_music_died_-_remembering_john_allen-12803

And the Regular NW Face route on Half Dome the same day.

And the Regular NW Face route on Half Dome the same day.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XdOzbM_7GMI

A new speed record.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XdOzbM_7GMI

Soline aided some sections of the route.

References

[1] https://www.desnivel.com/escalada-roca/soline-kentzel-escala-the-nose-en-solitario-autoasegurandose/