Tremadog

United Kingdom / Wales / Gwynedd / Porthmadog
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Library

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Climbs

17 recorded climbs.

Year Climb Grade Climber Style Date
1960 Vector E2 Joe Brown Lead | onsight 26th Mar 1960
First ascent. With Claude Davis. 2 points of aid.
1961
1962
1963
First ascent. With Pete Crew. 7 points of aid.

Pete Gomersall:

The ascent of this pitch has provided British climbing with one of its most humorous memories; of Crew accompanied by a joker in the October disguise of Al Harris. Harris, adorned with winkle-pickers and cow-gown, reckoned he could climb in this manner, anything Crew could lead, so Zukator was born, a product of a joke and multi-day tactics. (I bet they never analysed ethical consequences in those days!) [1]

References

[1] Extreme Rock, article 43 /library/193/extreme-rock---43---zukator
Zukator E4 Pete Crew Lead Oct 1964
First ascent. With Al Harris. 7 points of aid.
1965
1966
1967
1968
1969
1970
1971 Silly Arete E3 Hank Pasquill Lead 8th Apr 1971
First ascent. With Ray Evans and John Nuttall.
1972
1973 Cream E4 Dave Robinson Alternate Leads 1973-1974
First ascent. With Graham Durrant.
First ascent. With Dave Robinson.

I am not totally clear on the year due to the mists of time. However, Eric Jones had not been at the Cafe for very long and 1973/74 rings a bell.

Dave and I set of to climb Vector and led through as normal, with Dave leading to the Cave Stance. I then climbed over the small overhang from the stance and decided to try the headwall cracks, which I progressed up. Just after making the crux leftward move I noticed a chap on the top of the crag observing my progress.

After Dave joined me on the top of the headwall, we made our way off, and met up with the observer. The observer was Eric Jones who had scrambled up to watch what was the first ascent of the headwall.

We all went back to the Erics Cafe for a coffee served with Cream, a treat at that time. It was Eric and Dave who both agreed that it was a first ascent. Eric recorded the date, our names, grade and name of route. We considered the direct finish for Vector but spontaneously settled on Cream.

...

Hope that this information is usefull. [1]

References

[1] Email from Graham Durrant 29th October 2025
1974
1975 Void E4 Rowland Edwards Lead | worked 1975
First ascent. 1 point of aid.
1976
1977 Fingerlicker E4 Jill Lawrence Second 11th May 1977
First ascent.
Fingerlicker E4 Pete Livesey Lead | worked 11th May 1977
First ascent.
1978
1979
1980 The Sexual Salami E5 John Redhead Lead | worked 15th Mar 1980
First ascent. With Keith Robertson and Chris Shorter.
First ascent.

Ron lead the route in yo-yo style and gave it E5.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863216537231&set=a.115862679870618
Bananas E5 John Redhead Lead | worked 30th Mar 1980
First ascent.
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.115298749927011/115300749926811
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.115298749927011/115300909926795
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.115298749927011/115300909926795
Fingerlicker Direct E6 Andy Pollitt Lead | worked 29th May 1982
First ascent.
Fingerlicker Direct E6 John Redhead Lead | worked 29th May 1982
First ascent.
1983
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116374463152773
1985
1986
1987 Llanberies E7 Johnny Dawes Lead | worked 5th May 1987
First ascent.
1988
1989
1990
1991
First ascent.

References

[1] Mountain 138 (1991), page 18 /library/11319/mountain-138
First ascent.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 140 (1991), page 14
Climb Grade # Recorded Ascents Ascents Recorded Between
Strawberries E7 20 22nd March 1980 – 7th August 2023
Dream Topping E7 4 15th October 1984 – 16th October 2025
Swift Undercut E7 2 1st January 1992
Llanberies E7 1 5th May 1987
Psyche 'n' Burn E6 2 1st January 1981 – 1st January 1984
Surreal E6 2 1st January 1982 – 1st January 1983
Fingerlicker Direct E6 2 29th May 1982
No Holds Barred E6 1 1st January 1992
Bananas E5 2 30th March 1980 – 1st May 1980
The Sexual Salami E5 1 15th March 1980
Cream E4 4 1st January 1973 – 1st January 1977
Zukator E4 3 1st October 1964 – 1st January 1975
Void E4 3 1st January 1975 – 1st January 1978
Vulcan E4 2 1st January 1977 – 1st January 1987
Fingerlicker E4 2 11th May 1977
Silly Arete E3 2 8th April 1971 – 1st January 1987
Vector E2 3 26th March 1960 – 1st January 1974