Climbs

Climb Name Type Grade # Ascents Recorded Notes Exclude Reason
Darwin Dixit Sport route 8b+ 7

The route has suffered various breaks. It started off at 8c, then was around 8b+ when Dave Macleod made his solo ascent in 2008 but had gone back up to 8c by the time Jorge Díaz-Rullo made his solo ascent in 2021.

Dawes Rides a Shovelhead Trad climb E8 7
Demencia Senil Sport route 9a+ 7
El Niño Sport route 8a+ 7

Only the third ever route to be free climbed on El Capitan, after Salathé Wall and The Nose.

Entropia Boulder problem 8C 7

The first 8C in Spain.

Ephyra Boulder problem 8C+ 7

Goes left from a similar start to From the Dirt Grows the Flowers.

Flipnic Boulder problem 8B 7
Fuck the System Sport route 9a 7
Grateful Dead Boulder problem 8B 7

Stavanger, Norway

Heart of Stone Trad climb E7 7

Named after the late Ed Stone. [1]

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/mike.t.turner.7/posts/pfbid0L9ispdkySNMHGebcv4stjEWb1f3JWjp32koZqFWBbUGYBDbXmwhL7eFmawDYw4EAl

Hotel Supramonte Sport route 8b 7

400m 11 pitches: 7b+, 7c+, 8b, 8a+, 8b, 7c, 7a+, 7b+, 7b, 7b, 6b

References

[1] Petzl Rock Trip https://youtu.be/mHMcC_4Y0XI

[2] https://www.lacrux.com/en/klettern/video-about-jonas-shield-and-roger-schaeli-in-hotel-supramonte/

[3] Features Route Topo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7cE21kCIZ3c&t=26s

Janus Trad climb E7 7
Jungle Boogie Sport route 9a+ 7
Khéops Boulder problem 8B 7
La Furia de Jabali Sport route 9a+ 7
Lapsus Sport route 9a+ 7

Does the start of Noia before linking in to the hard end section of Anaconda via some difficult move.

La Révolutionnaire Assis Boulder problem 8C+ 7

A low start to La Révolutionnaire.

Le Super Plafond Sport route 8c+ 7

A link of Maginot Line and Terminator.

Longhope Route Direct Trad climb E9 7

Initially climbed as an audacious multi-day aid ascent by Ed Drummond and Oliver Hill in 1970. John Arran and Dave Turnbull then free climbed a variation on the line which then became known as Longhope Route. Dave MacLeod then straightened out the free line to something closer to the original aid line by climbing a very hard pitch up a thin crack line that was originally aided.

Lord of the Rings Sport route 8b 7

Bolted by Kim Carrigan in 1982 this route was ahead of it's time (Kanal im Rücken, typically considered to be the first 8b in the world, was only climbed in 1984). Carrigan came tantalisingly close to making the first ascent but it had to wait for Stefan Glowcaz to finish it off .

Carrigan:

Yeah, The Ring Route aka Serious Young Lizards really proved a bridge too far. The astounding thing was, that I'd bolted this route in 1982, long before anyone thought this would even be possible, which meant that I spent a long time learning the moves and developing the strength and fitness needed for a route like this. There was a complete lack of other routes of this difficulty from where this fitness could be gained. Despite being able to climb every move in my sleep, I could never quite bring it together. I still remember my best effort. I'd been shopping in Horsham for the weekly groceries and my fingers were already strained from carrying the shopping bags, but I thought I'll just pop up and give it a go. It had been drizzling, but because the wall was so steep, the route remained basically dry. First shot, I managed to redpoint straight to the last hold, but promptly slipped off mantling onto the wet slab above. That was it.. [1]

The route later featured in a now-famous Patagonia advert when John Sherman shot a carefully staged photo of himself seemingly soloing the route in flip flops, beer in hand!

The route got it's name from the ring bolts used to protect it.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/kim_carrigan_and_andy_pollitt-9629

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