South Face Mount Watkins | E7 (approx) Trad climb at Mount Watkins

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First ascent. With some points of aid.

First ascent. With some points of aid.

First ascent. With some points of aid.

A warm July, the concave face acting like a solar oven, and inadequate water supplies made for a notoriously thirsty first ascent.

"By the fourth day Yvon had lost so much weight from dehydration that he could lower his climbing knickers without undoing a single button. For the first time in seven years I was able to remove a ring from my finger, and Harding, whose legendary resemblance to the classical conception of Satan, took on an even more gaunt and sinister appearance." (Chuck Pratt)

References

[1] https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12196533900/The-South-Face-of-Mount-Watkins

All free bar 9 points of aid at approximately 5.12.

References

[1] https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198108700/

With Max Jones.

All free bar 9 points of aid at approximately 5.12

References

[1] https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198108700/

With Brooke Sandahl. First free ascent.

With Steve Sutton. First free ascent.

"Eight days later, our free bid would end a mere sixty feet from the summit anchor. Having run out of water that morning, in blistering heat, we inched higher till we hit the final aid section. Sadly, we had to aid through it. Our bid for an all-free ascent, coming from the ground, in a push, would end here. A few days later, we returned via the Tuolumne high country and were able to put together an amazing final pitch (12a), thus making the wall’s first free ascent (albeit discontinuous)." (Sandhal) An estimated 5.13a including a hard-to-grade horizontal dyno for his free ascent.

References

[1] https://climbingzine.com/old-school-south-face-mount-watkins-brooke-sandahl/