Boulder problems

Originally climbed without pads at E8. As with other lines on this bloc it utilises a large carved runnel to get established on the base of the slab. The runnel is believed to be a historical 'drip edge detail' for a dwelling or shelter that once stood under the roof.

Johnny Dawes' original line climbed the centre of the slab. He has since said this was worth Font 8A. [2]

1996 Chatsworth guide description:

The Angel's Share 7m, E8 7a

A contender for the hardest route in the area. From the gutter, climb the blank-looking slab directly up its centre with great confidence and total disbelief! Considering the length of this route, the grade 'says' it all.

In 1998 the centre line lost a pebble. Tom de Gay:

I believe JD went further left, but there used to be a handy micro-pebble which I unfortunately removed whilst soloing it, with my right hand on the slopey top, to the left of the seam. c.1998 [1]

Subsequent ascensionists have taken lines further right, where the slab is slightly less steep, but the temptation to reach for the arete of Velvet Silence is greater. Dawes has top-roped this line no-handed. [3]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C53smFWt6jZ/?img_index=1

[2] https://youtu.be/5416X0ID1zU?t=475

[3] Correspondence, October 2025.

The difficulty is pretty dependent on height. Taller climbers can use a low foothold which makes it substantially easier. [1]

References

[1] https://youtu.be/tn-3-hzoxSE?t=147

One of the first 8Bs in the world, though improvements to the sequence have led many to suggest 8A+ is more appropriate.

Ben Moon:

Black Lung is probably one of the coolest problems I've ever done. It's made my year doing it.

Mt. Kasagiyama, Ena, Gifu, Japan