Climbers

John Bachar was a leading figure in American rock climbing during the late 1970s and 1980s. A member of The Stonemasters, he was renowned for his solo climbing, frequently putting in long days where he would solo thousands of feet in areas such as Joshua Tree and Yosemite. In 1981, Bachar famously posted a note in Joshua Tree stating "$10,000 reward for anyone who can follow me for one full day." A challenge which no one took him up on!

Bachar was also famous for his ethical stance on climbing, where he strongly advocated an adventurous ground up ethic at a time when sport climbing was starting to become popular in the US.

Bachar was also an early proponent of specific training for climbing. He invented the eponymous Bachar ladder.

John Bachar died on 5th July 2009 while soloing at Dike Wall near Mammoth Lakes, California.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/3396050157127802

[2] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/866918260041017

[3] A Tribute to John Bachar by Lynn Hill https://lynnhillclimbing.com/media/essays/a-tribute-to-john-bachar/

[4] John Bachar timeline on supertopo forum http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/898272/john-bachar-timeline

[5] Portrait by Dean Fidelman 1974 https://www.instagram.com/p/B7-bDk3jRbn/

[6] Obituary by Ed Douglas, 2009 https://www.theguardian.com/world/2009/jul/10/john-bacher-rock-climber

[7] Memorial thread on supertopo http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=896012

[8] https://gripped.com/profiles/yosemite-climbing-legends-john-bachar/

[9] https://ukbouldering.com/threads/john-bachar-1957-2009.12063/

[10] Obituary by Michael Brick, 2009 https://www.nytimes.com/2009/07/09/sports/09bachar.html

[11] https://archive.org/details/johnBachar

References

[1] Interview with Dave MacLeod, August 2006 https://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2006/08/lucy-creamer-interview.html

[2] Interview with Del Goodey, 1997 On The Edge Issue 73 page 60

References

[1] Full Ring - A new area in Chironico, April 2024 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fy6HzNXm94Y

Jimmy Jewel was part of the 1980s climbing scene in Llanberis. He was well known for his solo climbing.

He died while down-climbing at Tremadog.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xVmLaXiMXm0

References

[1] Interview on The Nugget Climbing Podcast

[2] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/925282624204580

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qPRC_DydfSk

Royal Robbins was an extremely influential climber from the USA in the late 1950s and 1960s. He was part of a generation of climbers who established Yosemite as a world-class climbing destination and made first ascents and repeats of many now-famous routes there, such as the Salathé Wall (A2).

Robbins was also instrumental in defining an ethical approach to climbing that minimised reliance on fixed ropes, was sparing in the use of bolts, and championed climbing from the ground up. These values remain core to what is considered good style in modern big wall climbing. After visiting the UK and using nuts and chockstones for protection, Robbins, together with Yvon Chouinard, became an early proponent of 'clean climbing': the use of chocks over pitons as a means of minimising damage to the rock.

In later life, Robbins struggled with arthritis in his hands, which made climbing difficult. Because of this, Robbins focused his energy on his business ventures and, later, on whitewater kayaking. He made first descents of several rivers in the US and further afield.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CU4qXc5J8i7/

[2] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=6849687261751921&set=a.126453404075374

[3] Smart, D. (2023). Royal Robbins: The American Climber. United States: Mountaineers Books.

[4] Ament, P. (1998). Royal Robbins: Spirit of the Age. United States: Stackpole Books.

[5] Robbins, R. (2010). To Be Brave: My Life. United Kingdom: Pink Moment Productions.

[6] Robbins, R. (2010). Fail Falling. United States: Pink Moment Press.

[7] https://open.spotify.com/episode/3ce65n5RTjNYnXYEBJAH1A

[8] https://archive.org/details/royalrobbins

[9] Interview with John Meek https://archive.org/details/RoyalRobbinsJohnMeekInterview_52

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uFwmIi4Z9HA

References

[1] Interview with Ben Sanford (2025) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eu8kTmfv9mI