Climbers

References

[1] Interview on The Nugget Climbing Podcast

[2] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/925282624204580

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qPRC_DydfSk

Royal Robbins was an extremely influential climber from the USA in the late 1950s and 1960s. He was part of a generation of climbers who established Yosemite as a world-class climbing destination and made first ascents and repeats of many now-famous routes there, such as the Salathé Wall (A2).

Robbins was also instrumental in defining an ethical approach to climbing that minimised reliance on fixed ropes, was sparing in the use of bolts, and championed climbing from the ground up. These values remain core to what is considered good style in modern big wall climbing. After visiting the UK and using nuts and chockstones for protection, Robbins, together with Yvon Chouinard, became an early proponent of 'clean climbing': the use of chocks over pitons as a means of minimising damage to the rock.

In later life, Robbins struggled with arthritis in his hands, which made climbing difficult. Because of this, Robbins focused his energy on his business ventures and, later, on whitewater kayaking. He made first descents of several rivers in the US and further afield.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CU4qXc5J8i7/

[2] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=6849687261751921&set=a.126453404075374

[3] Smart, D. (2023). Royal Robbins: The American Climber. United States: Mountaineers Books.

[4] Ament, P. (1998). Royal Robbins: Spirit of the Age. United States: Stackpole Books.

[5] Robbins, R. (2010). To Be Brave: My Life. United Kingdom: Pink Moment Productions.

[6] Robbins, R. (2010). Fail Falling. United States: Pink Moment Press.

[7] https://open.spotify.com/episode/3ce65n5RTjNYnXYEBJAH1A

[8] https://archive.org/details/royalrobbins

[9] Interview with John Meek https://archive.org/details/RoyalRobbinsJohnMeekInterview_52

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uFwmIi4Z9HA

References

[1] Interview with Ben Sanford (2025) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eu8kTmfv9mI

The bouldering half of the strongest twins in the UK.

https://vimeo.com/user2388380

Andy Birtwistle:

Between '78 and '81 Bob Smith dominated Northumberland climbing. A new climbs supplement in '84 stated that without his contributions it would probably not have been necessary! Quite rightly so, as the booklet contained nearly 100 Bob Smith routes, most of a high standard of difficulty. [1]

References

[1] Bob the Climber, On The Edge Issue 109 page 40

Albert Hargreaves:

As a man he was a delightful companion on the hills, full of fun and interest in the things about him. He was kindliness itself and also most unassuming about his climbing, yet never carrying his modesty so far as to appear to be fishing for adulation. To those who did not know him well he may have appeared dull, but this was not so—he was a simple soul, not much interested in the complicated ways of modern life, finding his escape and true expression in his mountaineering. [3]

References

[1] https://footlesscrow.blogspot.com/2011/05/colin-kirkus-gemini-rising.html

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/ticklists/colin_kirkus_routes-3283

[3] In Memoriam, Albert Hargreaves and Jack Longland. Climbers' Club Journal 1943, page 168 https://ccjournals.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/1943%20Journal_web.pdf

References

[1] https://open.spotify.com/episode/6lwxseQAHOXpGPfHouI3nP?

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bF6Ekdr59E4