Climbers

Royal Robbins was an extremely influential climber from the USA in the late 1950s and 1960s. He was part of a generation of climbers who established Yosemite as a world class climbing destination and made first ascents and repeats of many now-famous routes there.

Robbins was also very influential in terms of the climbing style and ethics he espoused. Many of the values he championed, such as minimising reliance on fixed ropes, minimising the use of bolts and climbing from the ground up remain core to what is considered good style in modern big wall climbing. After visiting the UK and using nuts and chockstones for protection Robbins, together with Yvon Chouinard, Robbins became an early proponent of 'clean climbing': the use of chocks over pitons as a means of minimising damage to the rock.

In later life Robbins struggled with arthritis in his hands which made climbing difficult. Because of this Robbins focused his energy on his business ventures and, later, on white water kayaking. He made first descents of several rivers in the US and further abroad.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CU4qXc5J8i7/

[2] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=6849687261751921&set=a.126453404075374

[3] Smart, D. (2023). Royal Robbins: The American Climber. United States: Mountaineers Books.

[4] Ament, P. (1998). Royal Robbins: Spirit of the Age. United States: Stackpole Books.

[5] Robbins, R. (2010). To Be Brave: My Life. United Kingdom: Pink Moment Productions.

[6] Robbins, R. (2010). Fail Falling. United States: Pink Moment Press.

[7] https://open.spotify.com/episode/3ce65n5RTjNYnXYEBJAH1A?

Grew up at Kvam

Andy Birtwistle:

Between '78 and '81 Bob Smith dominated Northumberland climbing. A new climbs supplement in '84 stated that without his contributions it would probably not have been necessary! Quite rightly so, as the booklet contained nearly 100 Bob Smith routes, most of a high standard of difficulty. [1]

References

[1] Bob the Climber, On The Edge Issue 109 page 40

Albert Hargreaves:

As a man he was a delightful companion on the hills, full of fun and interest in the things about him. He was kindliness itself and also most unassuming about his climbing, yet never carrying his modesty so far as to appear to be fishing for adulation. To those who did not know him well he may have appeared dull, but this was not so—he was a simple soul, not much interested in the complicated ways of modern life, finding his escape and true expression in his mountaineering. [3]

References

[1] https://footlesscrow.blogspot.com/2011/05/colin-kirkus-gemini-rising.html

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/ticklists/colin_kirkus_routes-3283

[3] In Memoriam, Albert Hargreaves and Jack Longland. Climbers' Club Journal 1943, page 168 https://ccjournals.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/1943%20Journal_web.pdf

Interview with Wil Treasure on the Factor Two podcast https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yri_x9Z9KG4.

The first British woman to climb E7.

References

[1] Queens of the Stone by Lucy Ellis, 2003. On The Edge 126, page 46

[2] https://open.spotify.com/episode/6gO9VEuFebKaY2y9E6fUoL?