Hannes Puman

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Second ascent. Second go.

Particularly impressive given it was Hannes first ever crack climb!

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xGFjKjCN7Pc

First ascent.

Hannes did not offer a grade.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8QXZ18DE3Tk

With Jamie Lowther.

Importantly, Hannes climbed the route by a new variation pitch The Schnaz 5.13 / V9 which avoids what was the crux Changing Corners 14a pitch.

Ivo Ninov gave me a history lesson of the climbing in Yosemite and told gave me some insights of the Schnaz. Actually the name is misinterpretation, it comes from Dave Shultz who together with Brooke Sandahl prepared the Nose for free climbing in the early 90s. Lynn tried both variations but went for changing corners because the other has quite reachy moves. Around 98 when Scott Burke was training to free the nose he climbed the pitch but he also broke a crucial hold and couldn’t find a solution after. When Ivo came 2005 he put up another bolt and tried it with Thomas Huber and Matt Wilder, they found a method that was possible and all three freed the pitch. Big respect to everyone who was involved and made The Nose the phenomenal climb it is today! [2]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DDe-5suR5ii/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/DDpRcUGNsQ7/