The Master's Edge | E7 Trad climb at Millstone Edge

UKClimbing.com

So called because, while working the line, Jerry Moffatt proclaimed

only a true master could solo it onsight. [1]

Ron Fawcett then nipped in while Jerry was napping to snatch the first ascent of this iconic line.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 107, page 48

Contributors: remus

Pics + Vids

Ron Fawcett
Added at 18:03 on 01 March 2021
Magnus Midtbø
Added at 15:04 on 24 April 2022
Neil Kershaw
Added at 17:01 on 24 January 2021
Tom Randall
Added at 22:11 on 20 November 2022
Tom Randall
Added at 22:11 on 20 November 2022
Tom Randall
Added at 22:11 on 20 November 2022
Tom Randall
Added at 22:11 on 20 November 2022
Pete Whittaker
Added at 06:10 on 27 October 2022
Louis Parkinson
Added at 22:04 on 09 April 2022
Nick Dixon
Added at 07:02 on 28 February 2024
Mari Salvesen
View this post on Instagram

Added at 08:07 on 20 July 2022

Ascents

17 recorded ascents.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Ron Fawcett Lead | worked Dec 1983
Shaun Hutson Lead | flash 1990

After abseil inspection, and the first time the line was flashed.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 107, page 48

Airlie Anderson Lead | worked Sep 1994
First female ascent.

The first British woman to climb E7.

A mattress was used to protect the moves up to the shot holes. A local climber confronted Airlie about it in the Broadfield pub in Sheffield, and Airlie was so incensed that she punched him so hard that she floored him.

Liam Halsey Lead | ground up 2004
Alex Honnold Lead | onsight 21st Nov 2008
Magnus Midtbø Lead | worked 2010
Neil Kershaw Lead | onsight 11th Apr 2010

Adam Long:

Climbing smoothly to the shotholes, he placed the tricam and tried briefly to rest before continuing. The route was plastered in chalk from top-ropers the previous week, friction was poor, and the rest wasn't helping. So he carried on. Arriving at the crux last move, he gave a brief exclamation at the disappointing size of the crimp, did the move anyway, and then continued to the top of the crag up Great Arete, itself a rarely climbed and very bold E5 5c. Abseiling for the gear, he discovered the heavily chalked and ticked crimp he had used was not in fact the right one, it lurking unchalked and twice-the-size a foot to the side. It's tricky making definitive statements about style, but this is at least as good an ascent as the route has ever had. It's certainly hard to imagine how it could be improved upon. [2]

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg256035.html#msg256035

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2010/04/neil_nige_kershaw_-_golden_feet+local_hero-53061

Tom Randall Lead | worked 2011

The beginning of a long relationship with the route. Since making this ascent Tom and Pete Whittaker have made it a tradition to reclimb the route each year on their birthday, usually in some sort of fancy dress. For example, they've climbed it in fat suits, dressed as minions and even as a multipitch.

References

[1] Tom's first ascent https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qtKLXSGjop4

Pete Whittaker Lead | flash 2011
Nathan Lee Lead | flash 7th Mar 2016
Steve Ramsden Lead | flash 7th Mar 2016
Louis Parkinson Lead | ground up Mar 2022
Crispin Waddy Lead | worked 30th Jan 2024
Nick Dixon Lead | worked 26th Feb 2024
Martin Atkinson Lead | worked
Niall Grimes Lead | worked
Mari Salvesen Lead | worked