Adam Long

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No pads

There are routes, eg Ulysses, where I chose not to use pads because of the historical aspect, but having returned to some of these routes with pads I've found the character of the route is retained more than you might expect.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/ukc/guest_editorial_a_gritstone_retrospective-342687

References

[1] A record of ground-up and on-sight climbing on Peak, Yorkshire and Lancashire gritstone

References

[1] A record of ground-up and on-sight climbing on Peak, Yorkshire and Lancashire gritstone

References

[1] BMC 'A record of ground-up and on-sight climbing on Peak, Yorkshire and Lancashire gritstone'

References

[1] A record of ground-up and on-sight climbing on Peak, Yorkshire and Lancashire gritstone

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2007/03/long_falls_off_angels_share-34457

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SqOMWHOIqf0

From the summit I noticed the glint of binoculars from a white pickup on the road above, which I knew belonged to an older guy called Liam, and realised we were being watched. Liam’s family go back generations on the island, including the semi-mythical figure of Paddy the Climber, the last and greatest of the long cliff climbing tradition on the island from when eggs and birds were a key part of a subsistence economy. Paddy’s exploits were legion, but Stacknacally had been the one challenge on the island beyond him. After a lengthy de-rig we slogged back up the hill and drove back along the sole road to the village. As we passed Liam’s place, he was waiting at his gate. He had dragged his ancient mother out and was considerably more excited than I was. Hands were shaken, backs were slapped and Liam looked me in the eye and said ‘By God Adam they put a man on the moon fifty years ago, but we had to wait ’til now to see someone atop Stacknacally!’ Which was nice. [1]

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/threads/best-of-2024.34314/post-702157