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The beginning of sport climbing in Smith...and the US

A seminal first ascent in US and World Sport climbing

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/72DU26vF5X/

'Stolen' from the locals, the name is JB's opinion of himself!

As for the controversy, even if no one had tried the route when I started, Allan Watts bolted the line and tried it a little bit, and at that time the belief was that a line belonged to their bolter and no one else could have a go. So there was some tension with a few locals ... The cool thing is that on the very evening of my success, the boss of Metolius [Doug Philips] invited us to the best restaurant in Bend to celebrate and that, the next day, a doctor/climber organised a big party at his place with locals climbers and we partied, drank, consumed a lot of illicit substances, and it was a wonderful moment of reconciliation with the local community. This route and this ascent have been one of the peaks of my climbing career, one of the times I was certainly the strongest. At this famous party, I moreover won the pull-up contest, on cocaine it's true, but clocking 80 pull-ups in a row nonetheless… That's still a pretty number! [1]

References

[1] https://fanatic-climbing.com/il-etait-une-voie-once-upon-a-line-just-do-it/

[2] http://novebi.ning.com/group/smithrockclimbing/forum/topics/1389802:Topic:20521

[3] https://www.instagram.com/p/CfAO2ikvrr1/

[4] https://open.spotify.com/episode/1pZeqpNbv3KPe40WYci63E?

Graded 14b initially which would have made it the third of the grade in America at the time.

http://king-dino.blogspot.com/2011/04/allez-southern-californias-crag-mag.html

References

[1] https://www.climbing.com/news/shock-and-awe-milton-gets-aggro-linkage/

Smith's hardest route to date.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wUHuxJPttXk

A forgotten jewel hiding in plain sight at Smith's premiere crag. This arete will serve to be a true test piece in the style, with quality among the other classics in the park. I'm quite happy and proud to complete Alan's original vision of the backbone start from nearly 40 years ago. It was a truly last day last go effort, which is fitting because this beast is not easily tamed. Get after it! [1]

References

[1] https://www.8a.nu/crags/sportclimbing/united-states/smith-rocks-lvvok/sectors/monkey-face-p1f4g/routes/the-tailbone

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gxlxhwyNdZQ

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DO6SfoqEWPm/?img_index=1

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pdUOLIXgsg

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zdC67-3vdmw